Gauges acting weird

Liberated

TJ Enthusiast
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Aug 23, 2018
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Northwest Ohio
Ok, I hope I haven't missed anything, but I don't see this info in the forum already.

My 4.0 sport has some instrument cluster issues I can't explain.

It started right after my lift and tires. I expected the speedometer to be off, but it almost seemed sluggish, like the needle would stick sometimes. I might get it to read 50, then slow down, and it still reads 50. Then the next time I got to that speed(GPS speedo), it would only read 40. Usually if I drove at a consistent speed for a while, it would level out to where I'd expect it to be.

Moving forward over a year: now, after a bunch of repairs, and upgrades, the tachometer is acting up. Since I got it back from the shop, the tach seems to read high. At idle it's reading 1500RPMs, but the engine still sounds like it's idling normal. At speed, the tach is maybe 500-1000 higher than the charts say it should be for my gearing & tire size.

Latest issue I have yet to verify, but with the growing gauge issues, I'm assuming it could easily be related. Last week my alternator seized(I hate mud), so I replaced it. I guess I hadn't looked closely at the voltmeter in the instrument cluster between the repairs and replacing the alternator in my driveway between rain squalls. Looking at it now, it's only showing 12ish volts. Could be related to the alternator issue, but that's off topic.

As I said, I'll need to bust out my multimeter to verify the voltmeter is related, but am just curious if anyone has an idea as to what's going on in my instrument cluster.
 
Never swapped speedo gear, so I expected the speedo to be low. Now with new axle gearing it's actually just a little high.

Sye kit was among the many most recent repairs when the tach started acting up, but long after the speedo began acting "sticky".

Thanks, I never knew about the self test. I'll try that tomorrow if I get a chance.
 
I never like to group problems. Sometimes you end up overlooking things.

When you put on a sye you have to remove the speedometer gear. However, if this was a problem before i doubt they would reinstall it if it looked bad (missing teeth)

Just my thinking
 
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Ok, I did the self test tonight:
All the lights worked correctly.
The speedometer slowly dragged up to speed, but never got all the way up to the speeds shown in the video. I think 53 might have been as high as it got.

The tach showed 2800ish instead of 2k and 5800ish instead of 5k

The voltmeter was low on all three spots, but showed about 12k when it should have shown proper charging, so I'm comfortable the alt is correctly.

The fuel gauge was actually a little high. A little bit above half, pegged full, and then still pegged.

Oil pressure gauge looked alright, maybe a little off, but I don't remember specifics.

And thermometer was low.

Any thoughts?
 
I don't have a clue. But it is a good starting point. Might check the FSM to see if there is a section that says what normal is and what to do it it is reading incorrectly.
 
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Doing research it looks like that's actual Bus B0, B1, and B8. Going to look into all the ground straps behind the dash when I get a chance, but I also saw something about faulty bus pins. Anybody know anything about that?
 
Might be corrosion on the pin that connect the cluster. You can try cleaning the pins and applying dialectic grease.
You will have to remove the cluster. Easy job
 
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From the FSM


VFD Message Description Correction
buS b0 PCM - MIL Message The cluster is not receiving a MIL lamp
message from the PCM. A DRBIIIT scan tool
is required for further diagnosis. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
buS b1 SKIM - SKIM Message The cluster is not receiving a SKIS lamp
message from the SKIM. A DRBIIIT scan tool
is required for further diagnosis. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
buS b8 ACM - Airbag Message The cluster is not receiving an Airbag lamp
message from the ACM. A DRBIIIT scan tool
is required for further diagnosis. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
PanEL OPEn Panel Sense - Open Circuit The cluster is not receiving an input from the
the panel lamps dimmer circuitry of the left
multi-function switch on the panel lamps
dimmer signal circuit. Repair the open circuit
or replace the faulty switch as required.
 
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