Got bad news today from Blackstone Labs

B1Toad

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The TJ that I bought about a month ago with the rebuilt engine has a problem. Unfortunately the coolant was low and I didn't notice it till I got it home, but I found the cap was not sealing so I attributed it to that but still pulled an oil sample to be sure. They called today, I knew right away it was bad news because they don't call you unless there is a serious problem. The coolant has been getting into the oil, not enough to mix with the oil but still plenty.
So I'm waiting to hear back from the rebuilder but meanwhile checking out crate motors and wanted to ask around to see if anyone has bought one lately. There are a lot of them online and I was looking at S&J engines who offers a 4.0 for $2,150 with a 7 year 100,000 mile non-pro rated warranty. https://www.sandjengines.com/warranty
Here is my oil report:
 

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The TJ that I bought about a month ago with the rebuilt engine has a problem. Unfortunately the coolant was low and I didn't notice it till I got it home, but I found the cap was not sealing so I attributed it to that but still pulled an oil sample to be sure. They called today, I knew right away it was bad news because they don't call you unless there is a serious problem. The coolant has been getting into the oil, not enough to mix with the oil but still plenty.
So I'm waiting to hear back from the rebuilder but meanwhile checking out crate motors and wanted to ask around to see if anyone has bought one lately. There are a lot of them online and I was looking at S&J engines who offers a 4.0 for $2,150 with a 7 year 100,000 mile non-pro rated warranty. https://www.sandjengines.com/warranty
Here is my oil report:

I would question what is causing the fluid cross. Bad head gasket? Did it ever get overheated? If not then I would try and get a warranty from the builder (sounds like it may not have been rebuilt by a shop) following that I would change the head gasket, keep up on oil changes every 5K or so and run it till she blows, probably get significant life out of the engine, even with a little coolant mix


All else fails titan has a good reputation, and there’s a dude (russle maybe?) that will build a solid mild to wild stroker if you want a bit of punch
 
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1. Remove the oil filler cap and look down at the head. If you don't see TUPY, it has the crack prone head. If you see antifreeze, sludge, it's def cracked.

2. Get an oil pressure test gauge to see if it has worn the bearings enough to drop the oil pressure.
 
Rebuild it local, if you have a shop that does the work. I found a one local to me for "when" and "if" mine takes a dump.

That S&J deal you mention sounds amazing. Thing is, having warranties honored is often a pain in the ass that involves hoops you have to jump through.
 
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Just think of all the miles you'd have gotten out of that engine if you didn't send the oil off to be lab tested...

This is a textbook kneejerk reaction. At the very most this should trigger some investigation into where the leak is and possibly repairing it. If you just want to get a replacement engine either way, might as well just let this one destroy itself first...which could take years.
 
Just think of all the miles you'd have gotten out of that engine if you didn't send the oil off to be lab tested...

This is a textbook kneejerk reaction. At the very most this should trigger some investigation into where the leak is and possibly repairing it. If you just want to get a replacement engine either way, might as well just let this one destroy itself first...which could take years.

I hear what you are saying but I am a little concerned about the high metals in the oil sample. Considering the coolant was about 1/2 gallon low and the oil was high on the dip stick I'm not sure how long it would have held out, or how much damage the lower end has seen.
 
Fortunately I don't need to answer to my wife on spending money on my toys, and if I ever do replace the engine a stroker is definitely on the table!

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Is it possible Blackstone is just seeing residual coolant that may have been in the oil system from before the engine swap and not flushed out. I'd do another oil/filter change, run it awhile and send another sample into Blackstone and compare the results before panicking.
 
Is it possible Blackstone is just seeing residual coolant that may have been in the oil system from before the engine swap and not flushed out. I'd do another oil/filter change, run it awhile and send another sample into Blackstone and compare the results before panicking.

Not a chance, did you read the report? Metals are off the charts 10X for iron 16X for copper and 90X for lead etc etc. And Blackstone doesn't ever call on the phone unless it is urgent, Josh called and said "there is lots and lots of coolant". No way am I running it. The engine had been completely rebuilt 10,000 miles and 3 oil changes ago. Plus coolant disappearing and oil level rising. I wish it was the case but not a chance.
My theory is that when they re-used the weak 0331 head it cracked soon after due to being re-torqued during the rebuild. If that's the case I'm going with a Clearwater head. Even if it's just the head gasket I still want a Clearwater, not taking a chance on the 0331.
 
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Not a chance, did you read the report? Metals are off the charts 40X for iron and 90X for lead etc etc. And Blackstone doesn't ever call on the phone unless it is urgent, Josh called and said "there is lots and lots of coolant". No way am I running it. The engine had been completely rebuilt 10,000 miles and 3 oil changes ago. Plus coolant disappearing and oil level rising. I wish it was the case but not a chance.
My theory is that when they re-used the weak 0331 head it cracked soon after due to being re-torqued during the rebuild. If that's the case I'm going with a Clearwater head. Even if it's just the head gasket I still want a Clearwater, not taking a chance on the 0331.

FWIW, 295,000 on the 2001 "TUPY" head here - All of the pistons are still inside the engine. She does use a little coolant, but not enough for me to justify the cost of a re-build