H&R Springs and Bilstein 5100's in real time

[StG58]

Sitting on the new springs. 12 1/2" under the LCA's all the way around now. I'm going to let everything settle for a week or so then check the toe-in and tightness. Probably loosen up the LCA bolts and tighten them back down as well.

 

[StG58]

The H&R springs are almost the same size as stock so they should slip right in like mine did.

You doing the alignment yourself?

They did slip right in, once I thought about it a little. I'll check the toe-in once everything settles. It seems to drive fine at the moment.

 

[Chris]

Looks way better! Glad you didn't have any issues with the rear shock bolts, I didn't either.

I guess we can thank Oregon for mostly on-rusty vehicles.

 

[Ahoragi]

So the 0-2 bilstein come with blue boots? I have a set on the way and do not want to be black n blue.

My 6 inch 5100's have black boots.

 

[StG58]

So the 0-2 bilstein come with blue boots? I have a set on the way and do not want to be black n blue.

My 6 inch 5100's have black boots.

Yup, it seems the new Fall Fashion Color for TJ suspension parts is blue. The springs showed up in blue and the shock boots are blue as well. The shock boots on the Suburban are black, though, so I'm wondering if they just throw whatever color is in the box onto the shock. The Shock boots on the 'Bourbon have been on there for about 150,000 miles now, and when I peaked under them to see what was going on, the shock still looked like new. No corrosion, crud or accumulated water. Still doing thier job as well. One of hte reasons I went with Bilstein shocks.

 

[Ahoragi]

Yup, it seems the new Fall Fashion Color for TJ suspension parts is blue. The springs showed up in blue and the shock boots are blue as well. The shock boots on the Suburban are black, though, so I'm wondering if they just throw whatever color is in the box onto the shock. The Shock boots on the 'Bourbon have been on there for about 150,000 miles now, and when I peaked under them to see what was going on, the shock still looked like new. No corrosion, crud or accumulated water. Still doing thier job as well. One of hte reasons I went with Bilstein shocks.

I think maybe the stock sized bilsteins use blue boots since my previous set of 4600's had blue ones. The 5100 is listed for stock to 2".

I had the same experience with my 5100's. They were like 6 or 7 years old and body was unrecognizable. You'd think they were just a regular rusted white tube shock. The shaft was in near perfect condition due to using the boot however the boots had oil pour out when I removed them. I believe the seals leaked at some point. I replaced em all with the same set. I plan to put a coat of clear on the tj's 5100's before installing them. The fluid film did not work as well as I expected it to on the xj ' s shocks.

 

[StG58]

I think maybe the stock sized bilsteins use blue boots since my previous set of 4600's had blue ones. The 5100 is listed for stock to 2".

I had the same experience with my 5100's. They were like 6 or 7 years old and body was unrecognizable. You'd think they were just a regular rusted white tube shock. The shaft was in near perfect condition due to using the boot however the boots had oil pour out when I removed them. I believe the seals leaked at some point. I replaced em all with the same set. I plan to put a coat of clear on the tj's 5100's before installing them. The fluid film did not work as well as I expected it to on the xj ' s shocks.

Did you try to warranty those 5100's? They are supposed to have a lifetime warranty against failure, but I've never run across anyone who has tried to collect on that.

The 'Bourbon isn't lifted or anything, and it has the black boots. I don't worry about the color of the boot so much, they all end up dirt brown in short order anyway.

Just as an FYI and a little background info: This TJ was sold new in Virginia, went to Alaska and then went to Washington State where I bought it off a Subaru Dealership. He was really happy to get rid of it and gave me a great deal. I'm thinking there are still a lot of factory parts in this one.

 

[Ahoragi]

Did you try to warranty those 5100's? They are supposed to have a lifetime warranty against failure, but I've never run across anyone who has tried to collect on that.

The 'Bourbon isn't lifted or anything, and it has the black boots. I don't worry about the color of the boot so much, they all end up dirt brown in short order anyway.

Just as an FYI and a little background info: This TJ was sold new in Virginia, went to Alaska and then went to Washington State where I bought it off a Subaru Dealership. He was really happy to get rid of it and gave me a great deal. I'm thinking there are still a lot of factory parts in this one.

Yeah I did try to get them replaced under warranty with eshocks.com. they said I have to ship them to their warehouse for them to test and If they turn out ok then I have to pay to have em shipped back. The shocks were still functioning just leaking so I did not take that chance and just bought a new set from kolak.

 

[EJD]

Do these springs come with install instructions or whats involved in dropping the axles to get the springs off/on? I've been considering doing this with these springs but am not sure if its something I can do or not.

 

[glwood]

Do these springs come with install instructions or whats involved in dropping the axles to get the springs off/on? I've been considering doing this with these springs but am not sure if its something I can do or not.

Put the frame up on jack stands. Remove the wheels (one axle at a time). Disconnect the sway bar links, unbolt the bottoms of the shocks. That will give you enough axle droop to pull the oem springs and install the new. Reverse process, repeat on the other axle, you're done.

 

[EJD]

Put the frame up on jack stands. Remove the wheels (one axle at a time). Disconnect the sway bar links, unbolt the bottoms of the shocks. That will give you enough axle droop to pull the oem springs and install the new. Reverse process, repeat on the other axle, you're done.

Thats totally doable, I was thinking more things had to be disconnected for some reason. Thanks!

 

[Kiwi TJ]

View attachment 6544
Sitting on the new springs. 12 1/2" under the LCA's all the way around now. I'm going to let everything settle for a week or so then check the toe-in and tightness. Probably loosen up the LCA bolts and tighten them back down as well.

That's is looking much better with a bit of a lift ...I'm wondering much lower it will sit after the settling down period. ( I've narrowed my own lift choice down to 3 options and this is one of them) you'll have to left me know how they ride ?

 

[StG58]

Do these springs come with install instructions or whats involved in dropping the axles to get the springs off/on? I've been considering doing this with these springs but am not sure if its something I can do or not.

No install instructions. It's pretty straight forward though. I didn't have to unbolt the track bars or the sway bar links. Unbolting the sway bar links would have made thing ever so slightly easier, but a wonder bar "popped" the springs over the lower seats with no drama. When you order your parts, start spraying the fasteners down with Kroil. Do that daily until the parts arrive and it makes life a lot better. The upper rear shock bolts can be very special, so make sure they get a good dousing. Cycle your suspension to check for interference with the springs out and the shocks in. Full stuff left, right and both. Get the bump stop fully compressed and check your shocks to make sure that they aren't bottomed out. That will destroy a shock in short order. Check your rear shocks for interference with the axle tube and for bottoming out. No problems on mine, but every TJ is different. It may take a couple of hours to do all the checks but save you on broken parts down the road. When you get everything installed and the TJ sitting on the new suspension parts, loosen the control arm bolts and bounce the Jeep a few times to settle the CA bushings in their new position. Torque them back down to spec. A tip on the front upper shock stem nut: Don't over-tighten them. The rubber should be compressed, but not smashed. There's a torque spec for that, but I don't know of anyone who has the tool for measuring it. Use the supplied Allen key to keep the stem from turning while you tighten the nut. Turning the stem is bad for the shock.

Drive it for awhile, then check everything for tightness and bind.

Put the frame up on jack stands. Remove the wheels (one axle at a time). Disconnect the sway bar links, unbolt the bottoms of the shocks. That will give you enough axle droop to pull the oem springs and install the new. Reverse process, repeat on the other axle, you're done.

Yup, that's about it. I didn't have to disconnect anything on mine other than the spring retainer clips on the bottom of the front springs. They slid right in with a little persuasion.

That's is looking much better with a bit of a lift ...I'm wondering much lower it will sit after the settling down period. ( I've narrowed my own lift choice down to 3 options and this is one of them) you'll have to left me know how they ride ?

LOVE the ride. Firm, but not stiff. I put these on for increased weight capacity, the lift was a bonus. The springs haven't settled that I can measure. They just work.

 

[EJD]

No install instructions. It's pretty straight forward though. I didn't have to unbolt the track bars or the sway bar links. Unbolting the sway bar links would have made thing ever so slightly easier, but a wonder bar "popped" the springs over the lower seats with no drama. When you order your parts, start spraying the fasteners down with Kroil. Do that daily until the parts arrive and it makes life a lot better. The upper rear shock bolts can be very special, so make sure they get a good dousing. Cycle your suspension to check for interference with the springs out and the shocks in. Full stuff left, right and both. Get the bump stop fully compressed and check your shocks to make sure that they aren't bottomed out. That will destroy a shock in short order. Check your rear shocks for interference with the axle tube and for bottoming out. No problems on mine, but every TJ is different. It may take a couple of hours to do all the checks but save you on broken parts down the road. When you get everything installed and the TJ sitting on the new suspension parts, loosen the control arm bolts and bounce the Jeep a few times to settle the CA bushings in their new position. Torque them back down to spec. A tip on the front upper shock stem nut: Don't over-tighten them. The rubber should be compressed, but not smashed. There's a torque spec for that, but I don't know of anyone who has the tool for measuring it. Use the supplied Allen key to keep the stem from turning while you tighten the nut. Turning the stem is bad for the shock.

Drive it for awhile, then check everything for tightness and bind.

I'll have to keep you on deck in case I run into something questionable if you don't mind.

BTW: What are these metal cups next to the bump stops inside the springs...mine are toast! Falling apart literally. I should probably buy new bump stops as they don't look good either. Did you replace these components? or were yours still decent?

 

[StG58]

I'll have to keep you on deck in case I run into something questionable if you don't mind.

BTW: What are these metal cups next to the bump stops inside the springs...mine are toast! Falling apart literally. I should probably buy new bump stops as they don't look good either. Did you replace these components? or were yours still decent?

Sure, be happy to offer advise if you need it.

The cups that the bump stops fit into? They're bump stop cups. I didn't need to replace mine, though I probably should have pulled them and painted them while I was in there. Those are still available aftermarket. Just search "TJ bump stop cup" and several sources will pop up. They are pretty cheap. After the bump stops are removed, the cups just unbolt. Unless your bump stops are cracked, just reuse them. If you want, a good scrubbing does wonders for their appearance.

 

[ChrisTJ98]

Old thread here now 2019 how are the H&R springs treating you? I have a 1998 TJ sport had it since it was new and the springs and all control arms need replacing. I was set on replacing with all MOOG spring till i started coming across H&R springs. I have a heavy after market rear bumper and a HS 9500 warn winch up front, 1 inch body lift I have debated removing but it sags and i don't want to drive more then 5 miles for how bad it rides. I have rebuilt front axle and replaced all steering about 1.5 years ago but the suspension just needs replacing. I have 31.50 bfgs and want to enjoy driving it again. I have no problem doing the work myself as I have with everything else. The motor runs great I really would like to be able to drive it to work as a backup vehicle but this suspension is just freaking wore out.
Please tell me how the H&R springs are holding up.

Thanks
Chris

 

[StG58]

Old thread here now 2019 how are the H&R springs treating you? I have a 1998 TJ sport had it since it was new and the springs and all control arms need replacing. I was set on replacing with all MOOG spring till i started coming across H&R springs. I have a heavy after market rear bumper and a HS 9500 warn winch up front, 1 inch body lift I have debated removing but it sags and i don't want to drive more then 5 miles for how bad it rides. I have rebuilt front axle and replaced all steering about 1.5 years ago but the suspension just needs replacing. I have 31.50 bfgs and want to enjoy driving it again. I have no problem doing the work myself as I have with everything else. The motor runs great I really would like to be able to drive it to work as a backup vehicle but this suspension is just freaking wore out.
Please tell me how the H&R springs are holding up.

Thanks
Chris

Well Chris, I've put a lot of hard miles on these springs and shocks since I posted this. I still like this setup a lot. The only issue is going fairly slow on washboard roads. The Bilstein 's don't like that much and the ride gets harsh. Pick the speed up, and everything smooths out.

 

[ChrisTJ98]

Well Chris, I've put a lot of hard miles on these springs and shocks since I posted this. I still like this setup a lot. The only issue is going fairly slow on washboard roads. The Bilstein 's don't like that much and the ride gets harsh. Pick the speed up, and everything smooths out.

Thats crazy pick the speed up and it rides better. I know what you mean the few gravel roads around here washed out if you go to fast the rear end starts hopping and it usually will always kick out to the right/passenger side.
The Bilstein 5100 I seen at rock auto for 75.50 kinda high but dang it all this jeep stuff has soared over the years, I was just talking to a friend tonight wishing I did a lift a long time ago because there's no way to afford that now.
I'd be happy just to just be able to drive it to work every now and then without questioning my safety or the safety of others on the road. Do I really have to go with Bilstein shocks? This jeep would rarely go off-road other then a gravel road every now and then. Another concern I have if it is just 1-1.5 inches of more lift which the winch and bumper will take that back out i'm sure but good to ask this did you have any more driveline vibrations with added lift? I know kinda a dumb question but maybe the vibrations don't start happening till you get over 3" of lift.

Thanks
Chris

 

[ChrisTJ98]

Forgot to ask, you are running 31" tire correct?

 

[StG58]

Thats crazy pick the speed up and it rides better. I know what you mean the few gravel roads around here washed out if you go to fast the rear end starts hopping and it usually will always kick out to the right/passenger side.
The Bilstein 5100 I seen at rock auto for 75.50 kinda high but dang it all this jeep stuff has soared over the years, I was just talking to a friend tonight wishing I did a lift a long time ago because there's no way to afford that now.
I'd be happy just to just be able to drive it to work every now and then without questioning my safety or the safety of others on the road. Do I really have to go with Bilstein shocks? This jeep would rarely go off-road other then a gravel road every now and then. Another concern I have if it is just 1-1.5 inches of more lift which the winch and bumper will take that back out i'm sure but good to ask this did you have any more driveline vibrations with added lift? I know kinda a dumb question but maybe the vibrations don't start happening till you get over 3" of lift.

Thanks
Chris

You don't have to run the Bilstein shocks, look at the Rancho shocks, they are cheaper and most people like them better.

Forgot to ask, you are running 31" tire correct?

Yup. 31x10.50 KO2'S.