Has anyone had success with Blue Devil rear main seal stop leak?

Unpopular opinion.. but synthetic oils do not create leaks, they just clean so good that they make already existent leaks worse or even begin to show. Additives are junk. And i would never put dinosaur bones in my engine. Best thing to do is replace that seal. And stick with a high mileage oil, or synthetic oil. Id just run with oil and keep it on check until your in need of a clutch and replace it then
More I am trying to read and I am making it a kind of compassion with heart and blood flow. Some humans need medicines to thin their blood for free circulation and if it goes too thin the that's also a problem. Doctor uhh mechanic 🤔
 
More I am trying to read and I am making it a kind of compassion with heart and blood flow. Some humans need medicines to thin their blood for free circulation and if it goes too thin the that's also a problem. Doctor uhh mechanic 🤔
That didn’t make much sense. And i cant tell if your trying to insult me. But sorry for the input. Good with your leak
 
It has 160k miles and I believe the previous owner was using it mostly as RV tow vehicle at least for 15-20k miles during his ownership. So engine might have less wear. When I drive it I can not say there's anything wrong on engine front and seems normal to me. Other than these leaks and some vibration/noises that makes me bit disappointed.
TJ’s don’t run up miles under tow, so the miles are all on the engine. At that many miles you’re due for a RMS. Best to you...
 
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I am trying to determine what all needs to be done. It's bit disappointing that previous owner was as a uncomfortable when it came to sharing maintenance details. I don't want to fix what is not broken and I am not the right person to tell if seal is bad or if it was replaced at some point. It's tricky.
Is there any fellow Jeep member who stay near Loma Linda CA. Who would be willing to give some opinion if I bring it to them. I don't want to spend unnecessary bill on repairs.
 
an oil change will never hurt anything and is definitely not an unnecessary bill. I have a different opinion, but with what these guys are saying i would start with an oil change with conventional oil. Or high mileage. I personally only use amsoil, but pennzoil is a great brand and id recommend that. But honestly any brand that isnt a store brand will work good. If it doesnt say synthetic or synthetic blend or high mileage it is conventional oil.
 
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an oil change will never hurt anything and is definitely not an unnecessary bill. I have a different opinion, but with what these guys are saying i would start with an oil change with conventional oil. Or high mileage. I personally only use amsoil, but pennzoil is a great brand and id recommend that. But honestly any brand that isnt a store brand will work good. If it doesnt say synthetic or synthetic blend or high mileage it is conventional oil.
Understood, thanks for explaining in detail. I am looking to do oil change over weekend or earlier if time permits.
 
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Understood, thanks for explaining in detail. I am looking to do oil change over weekend or earlier if time permits.
Give it time to work, high mileage engine oil conditioners don't work by plugging holes and gaps around the RMS with particulates like radiator stop leaks do. Instead the additional seal conditioners present in some high mileage engine oils work to restore and rejuvenate the seal to its original size and shape. I had a fairly serious RMS leak in my daily driver BMW and it was leaking nearly a quart of Castrol synthetic a week. Switching to Mobil Super conventional 10W-30 cured it in something like 4-5 days of driving. My local independent BMW shop quoted close to $2k to replace the RMS since it was so labor intensive and required major disassembly to reach the RMS. Years after switching to the Mobil Super it was still leak free.

I could easily replace the RMS on my TJ but I'd be a fool to do that if simply charging my oil type can restore the seal and stop the leak as it is well known to do. Perhaps not in all cases but it's certainly worth a try. Insanity would be continuing to use the same type of engine oil that contributed to the the leak after replacing the RMS.
 
These leaks make me take back to my Royal Enfield motorcycle which has cast iron block and I am familiar with the leak in motorcycle territory.
Ok a lot on here will say just use high mileage non synthetic 10 w 30 but many people have had immediate success with rear main seal stop leak "especially" Blue Devil. Just use it and see then report back but prepare to be flamed if it works! sort of like MotorKote works although most who have never used it dont believe it works but believe MTL is the best thing since sliced bread which is far from true! At 160 thou your motor is worn and your main seal leaks. Ask yourself this- Do you want to repair a main seal leak on a worn engine or fix a main seal leak on a warn engine? If you just want to fix it Blue Devil may be cheapest and less labour intensive choice, if it dont work then repair it, Blue Devil will not harm your high mileage TJ, Simples. :)
 
Ok a lot on here will say just use high mileage non synthetic 10 w 30 but many people have had immediate success with rear main seal stop leak "especially" Blue Devil. Just use it and see then report back but prepare to be flamed if it works! sort of like MotorKote works although most who have never used it dont believe it works but believe MTL is the best thing since sliced bread which is far from true! At 160 thou your motor is worn and your main seal leaks. Ask yourself this- Do you want to repair a main seal leak on a worn engine or fix a main seal leak on a warn engine? If you just want to fix it Blue Devil may be cheapest and less labour intensive choice, if it dont work then repair it, Blue Devil will not harm your high mileage TJ, Simples. :)
Kind of confused, many people say TJ goes for 350-400k miles with proper care. So is it not at half life and should we call it (160k miles) as high miles?
 
Kind of confused, many people say TJ goes for 350-400k miles with proper care. So is it not at half life and should we call it (160k miles) as high miles?
Don't overthink this. A seal exposed to the kind of oil that can cause it to dry out and/or shrink is not the same as a worn out engine.
 
Kind of confused, many people say TJ goes for 350-400k miles with proper care. So is it not at half life and should we call it (160k miles) as high miles?
Yes, as long as it wasn’t abused that engine should have tons of life left. Seals leaking is just part of wear, but not engine components. Its like tie rods, or shocks. If they dont leak, its great. If they do it doesn’t mean anything but a $9 seal.
 
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