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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Help me fix my mistake

TrowaB

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Jul 31, 2023
Messages
20
Location
Hutchinson KS
So I bought my jeep in the summer and have never been able to get it to not kick into limp mode. Like an idiot I decided I was going to take the valve body out. Cleaned her up, buttoned it back up, but now my shifter seems to be fouled up.

I tried taking it all back apart and buttoned it up again to end up in the same place. It is like it is not in park anymore cause now I can’t even get it to crank.

Willing to hear out any advice and suggestions.
 
Valve bodies are complex components. If you don't know what all that entails when you're dealing with dropping a component out of a transmission, that's gonna be a big risk. I remember my dad doing a transmission fluid change on an old Humvee in the Air Force and when he dropped the pan 4 check balls fell out... That was a long night reading through a service manual! A lot of times bad shift solenoids or a fried PCM/wiring harness can cause a trans to brick itself.

What year and motor? There are 3 different auto's in the TJ. 30rh for the 2.5 (1997-2002), 32rh for the 4.0 1997- 2002, and 42rle for all TJ's (2.FOUR and 4.0) 2003-2006.

I can't see to save my life, but I think your Jeep says Sport on it and your profile suggests its a 2006, which means you have a 42rle. Should've done that homework first, sorry. I'm sort of confused on what's going on. Your shifting into park and the parking pawl doesn't lock the wheels in place? Or it parks and doesn't crank? If the pawl engages, can you jump the neutral safety switch to get it to crank?
 
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It is the 4.0 with the 42rle, sorry for some reason I thought posts just popped up with my jeeps information.

I will link to my previous post of struggles.

So all I did was take the valve body out, I did not open it up. I have been struggling so long and have so much money tied up and it hasn’t been running properly anyway I guess I just figured what’s the worst that can happen. Unfortunately I’m finding out I guess.

So if I was going to guess what the problem is I’d say that the arm attached to the rooster comb isn’t sliding into its slot properly but I don’t see how I could have missed it both times. Does this seem most likely the problem? The shifter I was not moving hardly at all the first time I reassembled so I assume that was it the first time, the second time I felt like I got it because it can move to all of the positions but when I turn the key there is no crank whether in park or neutral positions.
 
but when I turn the key there is no crank whether in park or neutral positions.

If this isn't an NSS problem I'll be surprised. It's been a minute since I had my fingers in a 42RLE, but if you've messed with stuff in & around the rooster comb then it's possible the range sensor is out of whack or maybe something super simple like it's just not plugged in all the way?
 
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@TrowaB Please jack up the rear and answer this for us first. If it is physically in park you then move your attention to electronics and wiring

I read his first post to mean that it doesn't act like its in park by virtue of it not cranking when in P.

"It is like it is not in park anymore cause now I can’t even get it to crank."

This is 100% an electronics issue.
 
I got it fixed, the arm off the rooster comb was in the wrong spot. Now still stuck with the same problem as before. If anyone has any suggestions for my previous post I linked I’d love to hear it.

I am thinking of getting a remanned valve body at this point, mainly cause I’m out of ideas.
 
I got it fixed, the arm off the rooster comb was in the wrong spot. Now still stuck with the same problem as before. If anyone has any suggestions for my previous post I linked I’d love to hear it.

I am thinking of getting a remanned valve body at this point, mainly cause I’m out of ideas.

before you get all crazy, lets describe more about what it's doing, how you deal with it when it happens etc. The computer is what tells it go go into limp mode, so I'd rather see you do a little more diagnosis before you just throw a new valve body at it.
 
before you get all crazy, lets describe more about what it's doing, how you deal with it when it happens etc. The computer is what tells it go go into limp mode, so I'd rather see you do a little more diagnosis before you just throw a new valve body at it.

Lately the problem starts with it slipping when I come to a stop. If it does that 2 stops in a row it kicks to limp. Except then I came up with the bright idea to take the valve body out. Now once I reassembled it is just permanent limp mode.

I have had the solenoid changed, I put in a new PCM, I changed the 10 pin connectors on the transmission (found some tsb that suggested those could be an issue). But just permanently stuck in limp.

Before I took the valve body out it was always P0846 but after it is now P0845.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator