Help needed with rear control arms please

sam53

TJ Enthusiast
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Nov 8, 2019
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sioux falls sd
I have a 2003 Rubi that I have installed an OME lift with a 1 inch Body Lift. Also have just installed a Rokmen skid plate. (Love it) Question please, and I have search this site numerous times for this. My driveshaft angle is steep. Yesterday I have decided to replace the driveline with a double cardan shaft. Is this enough or do I need to replace the rear control arms? I know that I should and if I have to, the only I want to use will be a Savvy, but at $670 and the driveline, my pockets are getting very thin. I haven't been able to drive it yet as the Jeep is scattered all over my shop floor. I am sorry I couldn't get a real answer for previous posts. I thank you guys so much for your help.
 
Yes, you have to have them to rotate the pinion up so the driveshaft is pointing directly at the yoke on your Rubicon Transfer Case.
 
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X2. I would also suggest spending the money and getting double adjustable control arms. It makes setting the pinion angle a breeze.
 
Ok, but with a 2 1/2 lift could I just put the upper ones on to rotate the pinion up but with that small of lift, will it rotate the axle so much it will strike the bar or gas tank skid?
 
Depending on the size of the OME lift your jeep may or may not experience issues. The only way to know for sure will be to put it back together and see if you have a shutter on take off.

Not every jeep is the same in regards to the amount of lift before adjustable control arms/SYE/DC drive shaft are needed to adjust the pinion angle. (In your case with the Rubi you don't have to worry about the SYE)

My jeep has a 3.25 inch lift, when initially installed I had a bad shutter on take off. I installed a MML which resolved my issue and it runs smoothly now. While probably not the correct way to resolve the issue a MML was less than $100 as compared to the price of adjustable control arms/SYE/DC drive shaft which could be 5-6xs that amount.
 
You will definitely need to rotate the pinion angle of the axle up. To do this you will need adjustable control arms. The best affordable way to do this is with double adjustable arms on top and single adjustable arms on bottom.
You can do it with single adjustable arms top and bottom, but this will be quite a bit more difficult to set up correctly. Given that this is your first time I would recommend spending the extra coin for the top arms. It could save hours, or even days of struggling to get everything to the right setting. Without the double adjustable arms you could be installing and then pulling to re-adjust over and over again. The easiest way to install the arms is with the axle hanging low so you can't judge the adjustments until you reinstall all the arms and Jack the axle back into ride height position again.
 
You will definitely need to rotate the pinion angle of the axle up.

For a 2 inch lift while at the same time adding a 1 inch MML I would not say the OP will definitely need to rotate the pinion angle up. Personally I would assemble everything and test before dropping the $$$ on double adjustable control arms to fix a problem that may or may not exist... But that is just me, I have more time than money.
 
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For a 2 inch lift while at the same time adding a 1 inch MML I would not say the OP will definitely need to rotate the pinion angle up. Personally I would assemble everything and test before dropping the $$$ on double adjustable control arms to fix a problem that may or may not exist... But that is just me, I have more time than money.
He also did a tummy tuck with the rokmen skid plate that he says raised his transfer case up 2 1/2 inches. So his 2 inch spring lift along with his 2 1/2 inch transfer case lift is more than the effects a 2 inch suspension lift will have by itself on the Driveline angle.
 
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He also did a tummy tuck with the rokmen skid plate that he says raised his transfer case up 2 1/2 inches. So his 2 inch spring lift along with his 2 1/2 inch transfer case lift is more than the effects a 2 inch suspension lift will have by itself on the Driveline angle.

Ahh... this makes much more sense. Thank you.
 
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I don't know how it could add hours, and no way days. If you have single adjustable arms, unbolt the upper arm at the axle, use a jack set the angle, set the arm length to line up with UCA mount and install bolts. It might take a couple tries, but not hours. Don't get me wrong, double adjustable arms are much easier, but you shouldn't have to adjust them again unless you change something.
 
For an experienced mechanic this is a fairly simple task. But for someone who has never done it and is unsure of what angle it needs to be set to, or re-set to or re-re-set to to get the adjustments just right, while only having 1 set of jackstands and 1 hyd Jack to balance the axle on while half the control arms are off to get adjusted, while having to fiddle with the lower arms to get some clearance for max uptravel can easily take a bunch of hours. And having no one to help out? Easily into the next day. And I assume there is the honey-do list to work on as well.
 
For an experienced mechanic this is a fairly simple task. But for someone who has never done it and is unsure of what angle it needs to be set to, or re-set to or re-re-set to to get the adjustments just right, while only having 1 set of jackstands and 1 hyd Jack to balance the axle on while half the control arms are off to get adjusted, while having to fiddle with the lower arms to get some clearance for max uptravel can easily take a bunch of hours. And having no one to help out? Easily into the next day. And I assume there is the honey-do list to work on as well.

I don't use jack stands. I leave it on the ground with full weight on the axle. I don't even measure angles. I set the pinion directly inline with the driveshaft using my calibrated eyeball and adjust the arms to fit.
 
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I don't use jack stands. I leave it on the ground with full weight on the axle. I don't even measure angles. I set the pinion directly inline with the driveshaft using my calibrated eyeball and adjust the arms to fit.

X2. When I first got my double adjustables installed and setup, I went for a drive, pulled into a parking lot and made a couple adjustments. Jack stands are not required or even helpful.
 
Given this from the first post, I took it as he didn't want to spend any more money than he had to.

...my pockets are getting very thin...


This is what I disagree with, "It could save hours, or even days of struggling to get everything to the right setting. Without the double adjustable arms you could be installing and then pulling to re-adjust over and over again." The rest is spot on.
 
I guess as I've gotten older my idea of saving money on a vehicle has shifted a bit. With my shit sciatic pain the thought of having to climb underneath to readjust the axle makes the cost of double adjustable uppers seem like a bargain.