Help with installing sway bar disconnects

I’ve never worried too much about them and maybe I should, but like I said before I did ram the sway bar into the fender and bend it a little with them connected. Also once I lifted mine the disconnect studs that I mounted to hold them up are off a bit for some reason so I use a BFH to beat on them. I doubt I’m helping you much but my whole point is that I despise my disconnects because they are a PITA for as much as I use them and I am ready for some Anti Rocks ASAP. Hopefully your experience is better but if you plan on disconnecting frequently I’m betting you may feel the same. But having adjustables would help. I think the Teraflex are garbage and I wasted my money.


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I preferred my homemade disconnects since I could just swing them up above the coil spring and they would stay put. The bracket you have to install for aftermarket quick discos requires pretty perfect setting to make it easy to get on and off-road. Antirock all the way
 
Yeah, I had it in our garage. That’s as level as i can find. One mount appeared bent, I bent it back. But I believe I have it really close. Can’t imagine it’s so far off as to cause that much difference.


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I preferred my homemade disconnects since I could just swing them up above the coil spring and they would stay put. The bracket you have to install for aftermarket quick discos requires pretty perfect setting to make it easy to get on and off-road. Antirock all the way

Ya for sure. Mine are so tight and it’s a huge pain. I glare at them everyday.


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I hate to beat this horse. What are the thoughts on the disconnects being essentially two different lengths? Not by a crazy amount but say a quarter to half inch. I have to install the parts that hold the disconnects out of the way and up on the frame. But, that’s a one time install, so I want to make sure it’s right. Right now I can hand remove the disconnects from the pins with then being off a hair. I’m sure if I made them the same length, I would have to force them on and that wouldn’t allow me to take them off by hand.
You want the sway bar to be in a neutral (not twisted) position when the Jeep is sitting flat. Whatever lengths the links need to be to achieve that is the correct length.

And the other question. Is there a reason for the sway bar to have the angle to it? I doubt mine has but a couple of degrees to it at best. It has always driven great at this setting. ...

That upward angle is meant to prevent the sway bar from inverting and flipping over when the axle droops. The sway bar should be flat, if not slightly high, at the mid point of the suspension travel. When the suspension reaches droop, there should still be some angle between the bar and link.

The angle will have little to no effect on performance.

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With the jeep being level, they should go on and off fairly easy.

My TJ has some weird stuff going on. The Teraflex discos were known for being too tight and they used to send you smaller studs if you called them and told them the issue. They wouldn’t budge on it when I called but I’m about to call again and get a bit more firm. I honestly hate them so bad!!


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I preferred my homemade disconnects since I could just swing them up above the coil spring and they would stay put. The bracket you have to install for aftermarket quick discos requires pretty perfect setting to make it easy to get on and off-road. ...

I liked my homemade disconnects too. They cost me $11 to make. Then I sold them for $15 a few years later! :)

.... Antirock all the way

The AR is still one of the single best mods I have put on the Jeep. The benefit goes far beyond no longer needing to disconnect. That is not the purpose. The added stability and control gained by staying connected with both front and rear sway bars while still having suspension articulation is the entire purpose. It changes everything about how the Jeep behaves.

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I wanted to thank all of you for all your help. All the bits and pieces make up the answers for the issues at hand. It’s harder when you don’t understand the swaybars purpose. Because I don’t know what I can get away with and where.
I’m afraid I still have a question. I raised the Jeep by the front bumper until the front tire just cleared the ground. The brake line wasn’t stretched. Is this a good enough test or will the sudden dropping weight of the wheel cause the wheel to fall further than that and stretch or worse break the line?



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I wanted to thank all of you for all your help. All the bits and pieces make up the answers for the issues at hand. It’s harder when you don’t understand the swaybars purpose. Because I don’t know what I can get away with and where.

Sway bars are one of those things that can seem very mysterious, especially on a Jeep where most think it is better to not have them.

When you take the time to really understand what it is they do (especially in an off road context), there is a moment where things become very clear and your whole perspective on the world changes. :)

Researching the Antirock and why we like it will help a lot. Controlling movement is a very important concept that is ignored by many.

I’m afraid I still have a question. I raised the Jeep by the front bumper until the front tire just cleared the ground. The brake line wasn’t stretched. Is this a good enough test or will the sudden dropping weight of the wheel cause the wheel to fall further than that and stretch or worse break the line?

I didn't extend my brake lines until I installed 22.5" long shocks. Even then, the front brake lines didn't begin to get tight until the axle was hanging and the wheels turned to hard lock.

If you really want to understand the mysteries of your suspension and everything that goes on underneath your Jeep, including the brake lines, learn how to cycle your suspension by removing the coils and bump stop jounces, disconnecting the sway bars and moving the axles throughout their entire range of motion. When you do this, you will see why the rear brake lines do not need to be extended in most cases.



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