Here's why you don't use a plastic throwout bearing (and how clean should I get the bell housing?)

Roller bearing. First thing I checked.

I’m going with the Timken.

I will say I’m not impressed with the press fit of the bearing. Not loose but definitely not tight. I’ve only done a few clutches in jeeps. So may be normal??
Just be aware that the transmissions input shaft hardness will determine whether you use a bushing or bearing. Your profile says you have a NV3550 which is fine with a bearing or bushing.
 
That was the only damage. Before I had it apart I was convinced the clip had come off the pivot ball, but it was still attached.
Thanks, sounds like it may not be a good time to try the LUK supplied bearings. Someone should let them know.
 
We did my kid's w/ the LUK about 9 months ago, and no problems so far. He said the clutch is starting to slip a little, but he's also been teaching my 14YO to drive :confused:
 
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We did my kid's w/ the LUK about 9 months ago, and no problems so far. He said the clutch is starting to slip a little, but he's also been teaching my 14YO to drive :confused:
Check back each year so we can monitor the parts life. Lol about the kids learning to drive. That may skew our research. 😝
 
After getting everything back together the Jeep drove great. EXCEPT the shifter was VERY sloppy.

Today I pulled the shifter and it seems I am missing this piece.

42B0ADAE-93C5-42FC-9FF0-5B59148A694B.jpeg


I have ordered on from http://cmgearworks.com. Since my shifter wasn’t sloppy before I can only surmise that this piece was present before I pulled the shifter. AND since I can’t find this piece nor did I sweep it up when I cleaned up I can only surmise that it popped off and fell into the transmission.

I am hoping since it’s plastic it won’t do much damage. But I don’t know. I have Redline MTL on order for a fluid change. Maybe it’ll come out when I drain the old fluid.

Any thoughts if this is a ticking time bomb? Or how to go about getting it out?
 
I have been driving with Luk plastic fantastic for a year, or year and half now... no issues.
Skeptical? - yes.
But after receiving and returning 2 timkens (1 fell apart in my hands, other was wobbling) and 3 nationals (all were off-centered and misaligned af), LUK looked like the best option.
 
Great question. I just immediately went with Timken because they have had a good reputation. I didn’t even look for a Mopar nor thought about it. It’s a lot more money but peace of mind is worth it. Hopefully I won’t regret my ignorance.

Every stock Mopar TOB I know has outlasted the clutch disc and the pressure plate, and with all the bad reviews of the Luk, all the problems people have with the National and the Timken, I think the extra $40 would be worth it considering the job required to replace a defective TOB.
 
Every stock Mopar TOB I know has outlasted the clutch disc and the pressure plate, and with all the bad reviews of the Luk, all the problems people have with the National and the Timken, I think the extra $40 would be worth it considering the job required to replace a defective TOB.


You definitely have a point. But hays in the barn now. Time will tell
 
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The old clutch is marked "PHT"... stands for Perfection Hi Test. We sold those for a while while I was at Centric Parts but they were pieces of shit so we stopped. Anything LUK brand will be OE quality or better...I wouldn't think twice about using their clutches.
 
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The first time I replaced my clutch I used a Luk heavy duty. I didn't like the look of the throwout bearing and replaced it with one I thought looked better. The throwout bearing I replaced it with craped out quick, when I replaced it I switched to the Luk oem grade clutch and used the throwout bearing that came with it.
Ive got good service so far from the supplied throwout bearing in the Luk kit. I could have just changed the bearing, but the heavy duty Luk had more pressure plate than I liked at the pedal,and the transmission was already out.
Its anecdotal but I think the cheap looking throwout bearing is better than it looks.
 
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