OP
I think I found the perfect belt length of 86.6". Continental 4060686. Application is an early 1990s Volvo 850.
Higher horses, higher revs & even higher torque, a streetable LJ engine swap
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
tbsmitty
New Member
Tox - I've enjoyed reading your chassis build and now this thread. Super informative.
If you haven't already found them, GM make bolt on plastic dust covers for the bellhousing/engine interface openings.
ACDelco 24261712 and 24261713:
Also, be careful using Dexcool. It is sensitive to contamination and air in the system (it basically turns to brown sludge). It works well when everything is good, but can have serious consequences if it's not... clogged heater core, clogged radiator, block full of gunk, etc.
Good luck.
If you haven't already found them, GM make bolt on plastic dust covers for the bellhousing/engine interface openings.
ACDelco 24261712 and 24261713:
Also, be careful using Dexcool. It is sensitive to contamination and air in the system (it basically turns to brown sludge). It works well when everything is good, but can have serious consequences if it's not... clogged heater core, clogged radiator, block full of gunk, etc.
Good luck.
OP
Thanks! I actually found those a couple of months ago and have them in my parts pile. They aren't a perfect fit for some reason, but a little grinding on them should make things work just fine.
OP
Notching the 3/8" 6061 belly skid around the transmission pan:
Scribing for cutting off the sides:
I wanted a little more wiggle room around the transmission:
Countersunk 1/2" flat head bolts for the skid. And the plasma cutter made quick work of cutting the extra on the sides off followed up with a flap disc.
Scribing for cutting off the sides:
I wanted a little more wiggle room around the transmission:
Countersunk 1/2" flat head bolts for the skid. And the plasma cutter made quick work of cutting the extra on the sides off followed up with a flap disc.
tbreaux
New Member
Very interested in how your RPM Extreme harness works out. I'm doing this LS3+6L80 conversion with this same harness kit but you are much further into the swap.
OP
I'm glad to hear that Jon has made more of these harnesses for TJ years. I'm pretty sure mine is #2 after they had made one for a build they did themselves.
I'm projecting that I'll start on electrical in about 3-4 weeks.
tbreaux
New Member
Ok thank you. The ECM that came with my RPM harness is an older vintage than that of the ECU that came with my new LS3 so i can't use the GM harness. I need emissions to work so crossing my fingers the RPM supplied ECM still has these items functioning. I was working with Adam from RPM.
OP
RPM Extreme builds their harnesses so they'll work with emissions so you should be fine as long as your physical bits match up with your local requirements.
OP
I'll be putting a stiffener along the rear of the belly skid and the transmission crossmember acts as the stiffener in the front. I was going to use a 1/4" thick aluminum angle right along the back but with the driveshaft and exhaust I think I'd have to cut the profile too low to provide enough support. I'm waiting once my exhaust is in, but I'll likely use 1-1/4" DOM and make little feet to bolt down to the skid.
OP
Mocking up the 5/16" 7075-T6 engine skid. I went with 7075 here because it's a little stronger than 6061 and my hope is that it might prevent more oil pan damage.
Leaving a gap so the skid can move up when hit:
Cutting a spacer out of 5/8" aluminum:
Leaving a gap so the skid can move up when hit:
Cutting a spacer out of 5/8" aluminum:
OP
Trying out a different transmission line. I think this might be the best so far (cheapest too). GM #92236244.
From what I can tell that looks solid, and gives plenty of clearance for the transmission skid. It hugs nice and tight.
OP
So that I could cycle the front to test clearance to the new skid fully I decided to bolt the driveshaft in.
Just getting the Atlas shifters in enough to shift out of neutral so I can torque the output flange using the transmission as a brake. I also replaced both axle yokes to the 1350 yokes while I was at it.
Tom Woods sold me the flange and seal which they sourced from Advance Adapters.
Just getting the Atlas shifters in enough to shift out of neutral so I can torque the output flange using the transmission as a brake. I also replaced both axle yokes to the 1350 yokes while I was at it.
Tom Woods sold me the flange and seal which they sourced from Advance Adapters.
OP
OP
OP
I mocked up the steering to see what needs to happen. I'll wait to finish up once the engine is out again.
OP
I bent 3/8"x1" flat bar for the left side brace over top of the control arm.
OP
OP