Higher horses, higher revs & even higher torque, a streetable LJ engine swap
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
I decided I'd be more imaginative with a clean slate so I cut the 4.0 engine frame horns off:
I was able to bend my dipstick to fit around the CTS-V manifolds. (The tape is to prevent scratches.)
The rubber mount Advance Adapters sells (AA #716101, GM #15840278) sticks below the shallow transmission pan. So that's going into the return pile...
Paint protects metal. He lives in an area where exposed metal WILL rust.
I came up with my own transmission support design using bushings from Autofab (part# BA125) and ordered the steel to make it. Unfortunately I'm nearing the end of things I can work on until this crossmember is in. Fingers crossed that it makes it here by the end of the week but the shipping services seem pretty backed up right now.
I was hoping to show off the new alternator bracket that I bought on Black Friday, but it seems that I received the wrong version since it has a fitment issue. 
Thanks! It took laying under my Jeep for a few hours before the design hit me and then another hour creating the cardboard mockup.
The LS3 leak detection pump (LDP) was in the way of moving the alternator over, it could easily be relocated but since I wasn't running one before anyway I opted to remove it. It has also been removed in the tuning of my ECU so I won't have a check engine light.
I used a vacuum cap to plug off the throttle body:
I used a vacuum cap to plug off the throttle body:
Is it cheaper to have a forum member who lives in Australia send it to you? I feel like that’s a rip off on shipping.
You know, it ended up actually being closer to $50 for shipping once the charge went on my credit card. I forgot about the currency conversion. It ended up triggering the fraud department for my card and their payment processor so I'm still waiting for them to ship it.
$50 still feels like a lot when China could mail it to my door for under $5, but I need the part and I'd rather have a quality piece from Australia than the lowest bidder in China.
I found one in the US that I could have made work, but the one from Australia was so perfect for my needs that I went for it. I also don't mind waiting on it since I can still make all of the lines and hook it up at the end.
I assembled a Swag finger brake I bought during last year's Black Friday sale. It was a fun little kit to build!
I tried bending a piece of 1/8" scrap and the bend isn't tight enough for the bracket I need to make. I need to play around with the brake some more to see if I can improve. If not I think I'll cut and weld the bracket from 5 pieces instead of bending it from 1 piece.
I tried bending a piece of 1/8" scrap and the bend isn't tight enough for the bracket I need to make. I need to play around with the brake some more to see if I can improve. If not I think I'll cut and weld the bracket from 5 pieces instead of bending it from 1 piece.
Tox - get yourself some short lengths of 1/4” angle in 2 1/2”, 2”, 1 1/2”, and 1”. Grind off the corners so they nest flush, and drop them into the main die. Then you have options on how tights to make the bends.
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While I have the drivetrain out I figured I'd snap a pic to show the areas of the tub that have been clearanced. It's difficult to tell, but most of this has been moved 1-3" to make room.
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