How-to align your axle with an adjustable track bar

mrblaine

mrblaine

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  1. Start with rig on level ground side to side. Reasonably level front to back.
  2. Measure between bolts under front bumper. Mark center, exact center on underside of bumper. That is the rear sight of your alignment pistol.
  3. Mark center of body mount bolt head under the radiator. That is the front sight of your alignment pistol.
  4. Hang a plumb bob with a magnet so the string is unencumbered in front of axle off of the harmonic balancer.
  5. Using the sights on your pistol, use them to move the string side to side until all 3 points are in perfect visual alignment.
  6. If you have a stock axle, measure from the inside of the swaybar link mounts to the string. Don't measure from the string to the mount, you'll move the string.
  7. When both measurements are the same, the axle is centered. (You can also measure from both steering arms and mark the center of the tie rod.)
  8. Make a mark on the axle tube after it is centered by sighting the string and the rear sight.
  9. Line up the mark on the tie rod with the string and axle mark visually. The front tires are now centered.
  10. Check the steering wheel and you can adjust it and keep checking the tie rod. That will get it very close to just barely need fine tuning after the road test.
 
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mrblaine, thanks for the "how to" information. I followed your steps, but made one change. I had trouble getting repeatable measurements to the plumb bob string. The track bar and/or steering damper interfered with the axle reference points I wanted to use, and I was too lazy to remove the steering damper.

I remembered I had a laser level with magnetic base. I put painters tape on the bumper, and marked the center. I stuck the level to the bottom of my bumper, on the center marks, and aligned the laser with the center body mount and my plumb bob string. With the laser set to project a plane instead a point, I had an easier time getting repeatable measurements. I didn't matter if I measured from the sway bar link mounts, brake rotors, or whatever, the axle was off center the same amount.

FWIW, my previous attempt to center the axle, I used the outer edge of my fender flares and tire edges for reference. Using frame/axle reference points, as compared to fender flares/tires, there was a 3/4" difference.
 
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LukesfirstJeep said:
mrblaine, thanks for the "how to" information. I followed your steps, but made one change. I had trouble getting repeatable measurements to the plumb bob string. The track bar and/or steering damper interfered with the axle reference points I wanted to use, and I was too lazy to remove the steering damper.

I remembered I had a laser level with magnetic base. I put painters tape on the bumper, and marked the center. I stuck the level to the bottom of my bumper, on the center marks, and aligned the laser with the center body mount and my plumb bob string. With the laser set to project a plane instead a point, I had an easier time getting repeatable measurements. I didn't matter if I measured from the sway bar link mounts, brake rotors, or whatever, the axle was off center the same amount.

FWIW, my previous attempt to center the axle, I used the outer edge of my fender flares and tire edges for reference. Using frame/axle reference points, as compared to fender flares/tires, there was a 3/4" difference.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I've been contemplating a laser level for just such a thing but I'll have to use a prop rod to shove it up against the bumper or devise a clamp since most of the stuff we work with has aluminum bumpers.

It does occur to me that if there is enough room for the flat light to reach, you could use your method to hang a bob off the top of the bumper and then one off the belly side. The further apart you can get the two strings, the higher the accuracy. I'll have to get me a laser level and play with it.
 
It does occur to me that if there is enough room for the flat light to reach, you could use your method to hang a bob off the top of the bumper and then one off the belly side. The further apart you can get the two strings, the higher the accuracy. I'll have to get me a laser level and play with it.
Click to expand...

I do believe the flat light will work. Although my garage was lit, it was dark under my jeep. I could see the red light on the my garage door at the rear of the jeep.

My laser has a magnetic base, but also came with other mounts. One looks like it would mount to a small camera tripod. I bought my laser years ago on a whim at a Sears after Christmas sale. I'm thinking it was $20 to $40 range, but definitely less than $100.
 
This is my laser level. Like most, it uses a 1/4-20 tripod mount. It came with a clamp. I made a magnet base so I can attach it to a drywall corner bead. Haven't used it for the Jeep, but I'll keep it in mind.

Bosch GLL 2 Self-Correcting Cross Line Laser Level with Mounting Device (AA Batteries Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQUJ2AK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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Is it true you can remove both trackbars, jump on top of the bumper and the tj should center itself? Then adjust the trackbar to fit?
 
Jramos013 said:
Is it true you can remove both trackbars, jump on top of the bumper and the tj should center itself? Then adjust the trackbar to fit?
Click to expand...

The method described here is far more precise than the bounce technique.

The only thing that bouncing does is put the bushings, joints, coils, and any of the stress and forces and binds into a neutral balance against each other. If the axle happens to get centered at ride height, it is purely coincidental.
 
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jjvw said:
The method described here is far more precise than the bounce technique.

The only thing that bouncing does is put the bushings, joints, coils, and any of the stress and forces and binds into a neutral balance against each other. If the axle happens to get centered at ride height, it is purely coincidental.
Click to expand...
Got it, so it would be a good idea to first bounce a bit so it doesn't bind, the align it following the procedure?
 
Jramos013 said:
Got it, so it would be a good idea to first bounce a bit so it doesn't bind, the align it following the procedure?
Click to expand...

As I understand it, I personally see no value in bouncing. In fact, there are suspension setups where bouncing would just cause the front end to flop over to the side.
 
Is it true you can remove both trackbars, jump on top of the bumper and the tj should center itself? Then adjust the trackbar to fit?
Click to expand...

The bounce method didn't work for me. I ended up using a rachet strap to pull the body over the center of the axle.
 
mrblaine said:
  1. Start with rig on level ground side to side. Reasonably level front to back.
  2. Measure between bolts under front bumper. Mark center, exact center on underside of bumper. That is the rear sight of your alignment pistol.
  3. Mark center of body mount bolt head under the radiator. That is the front sight of your alignment pistol.
  4. Hang a plumb bob with a magnet so the string is unencumbered in front of axle off of the harmonic balancer.
  5. Using the sights on your pistol, use them to move the string side to side until all 3 points are in perfect visual alignment.
  6. If you have a stock axle, measure from the inside of the swaybar link mounts to the string. Don't measure from the string to the mount, you'll move the string.
  7. When both measurements are the same, the axle is centered. (You can also measure from both steering arms and mark the center of the tie rod.)
  8. Make a mark on the axle tube after it is centered by sighting the string and the rear sight.
  9. Line up the mark on the tie rod with the string and axle mark visually. The front tires are now centered.
  10. Check the steering wheel and you can adjust it and keep checking the tie rod. That will get it very close to just barely need fine tuning after the road test.
Click to expand...
@mrblaine first and foremost thank you for your post and guidance. Pardon my ignorance, but I don't see anything in your initial post regarding how to make the adjustments to center the axle and how to use the adjustable track bar to do so. I think the measurements make sense, but how do you actually center the body over the axle? Ratchet straps? I did the bounce method after my axle swap and got close... probably within 1/2" to 3/4" of being centered.
 
Just an FYI, if you frame is not straight, you are not going to win this one. You need to trammel your frame to make sure your frame is square. I have to realign my axle after getting my frame straightened with the adjustable track bar. Getting it straightened was not expensive, body shop had it done in 3 days. Now I need to get the front axle centered and back to the alignment shop.
 
infiniteDH said:
@mrblaine first and foremost thank you for your post and guidance. Pardon my ignorance, but I don't see anything in your initial post regarding how to make the adjustments to center the axle and how to use the adjustable track bar to do so. I think the measurements make sense, but how do you actually center the body over the axle? Ratchet straps? I did the bounce method after my axle swap and got close... probably within 1/2" to 3/4" of being centered.
Click to expand...
Not quite sure what you are asking? If it isn't centered and you want it to be, it has to move, move it.
 
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mrblaine said:
Not quite sure what you are asking? If it isn't centered and you want it to be, it has to move, move it.
Click to expand...
Looking for advice on the method by which the body should be centered over the axle. Simply disconnect the front track bar and then push and pull (ratchet straps? Bouncing? Shoving?) to get the body centered over the axle? Will leaving all control arms attached prevent it from moving? I tried the bouncing and pushing and shoving and not sure I got anywhere. Your post was titled "how to align your axle with an adjustable track bar" but there was no mention of the track bar or how to actually move the body over the axle.

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Use a jack on the frame to support the body and prevent it from flopping over, then disconnect one side of the track bar, adjust half of the amount you need to move the body, pull the frame/axle back into place, reconnect, remove jack, and measure.
 
One mine, I have pushed and shoved the body. As it sits now, I need to be a little more careful and use a ratchet strap or the whole thing will flop to one side.

Basically, you do whatever works to line up the mount and track bar.
 
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Ratchet strap, large friend, rotate a double adjustable link, etc. Whatever you have and works for you.
 
jjvw said:
One mine, I have pushed and shoved the body. As it sits now, I need to be a little more careful and use a ratchet strap or the whole thing will flop to one side.

Basically, you do whatever works to line up the mount and track bar.
Click to expand...
Yep, pretty much that. Whatever works. We can sometimes get the end of the bar in the mount and pry it over to get the bolt in. Sometimes we use a ratchet strap between axle and frame, sometimes we just push it over by hand. Depends on how far it has to move generally.
 
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