Rotate you engine to TDC and loosen the retaining nut on the OPDA then turn the top of the OPDA until the holes lineup and tighten it down. This gets you pretty close and without the proper reader is about as close as you can get. You can also adjust the top of the OPDA while its running by turning it slightly to see where the engine smooths out.I am having trouble getting my new opda in the same position as the old one came out. What should I do first to help fix this problem?
Rotate you engine to TDC and loosen the retaining nut on the OPDA then turn the top of the OPDA until the holes lineup and tighten it down. This gets you pretty close and without the proper reader is about as close as you can get. You can also adjust the top of the OPDA while its running by turning it slightly to see where the
The OPDA was an 05/06 issue. Before that it was a camshaft synchronizer and a different part entirely that isn’t known to fail, at least not in the same way.Sorry for the silly question, but Amazon is saying the Crown ODPA linked in the OP won't fit my 2004. Are they nuts, or do I need a different part?
Gotcha, thanks!The OPDA was an 05/06 issue. Before that it was a camshaft synchronizer and a different part entirely that isn’t known to fail, at least not in the same way.
If i remember correctly, only the 2005-2006 wrangler have the OPDA ( large round black top). 1997- 2004 have what is called the camshaft synchronizer (little gray top).Sorry for the silly question, but Amazon is saying the Crown ODPA linked in the OP won't fit my 2004. Are they nuts, or do I need a different part?
I changed mine approx 6 months ago. Just make sure when you do change it, that you put the new one in exactly how the old one came out or use a scan tool (make sure the scan tool has this special line) to make sure your cam/crank differential percentage is within spec ( i believe it is +/- 8 degrees) or you will be in limp mode. I have an image of my Snap-on Ethos scan tool ( photo earlier in this thread) which has this measurement. I know my OTC (Bosch) 1300 scan tool does not have this measurement.The OPDA and camshaft synchronizer are the same thing. The 05-06 FSM always refers to it as the camshaft synchronizer. The design was slightly different in 05-06.
Fortunately it is only a $100 part and only takes about 30 minutes to replace.
From what I remember, many of us had a sticker on the original one. It was on the outside wall near where the plastic cap meets the metal and said something like LKI?Is there a way for me to tell whether I have the original or a replacement OPDA?
Given your location, start getting kroil or liquid wrench soaking the rear upper bolts.I'll move on to shock replacement!
I think it may vary slightly but the spec is 10 degrees either side of 0. Easy to find out if you have a scanner, loosen the bolt and turn it slowly until the engine dies. Check the timing and do it the other direction. The most we've seen where the won't rev above 3500 rpm is 11 degrees.I changed mine approx 6 months ago. Just make sure when you do change it, that you put the new one in exactly how the old one came out or use a scan tool (make sure the scan tool has this special line) to make sure your cam/crank differential percentage is within spec ( i believe it is +/- 8 degrees) or you will be in limp mode. I have an image of my Snap-on Ethos scan tool ( photo earlier in this thread) which has this measurement. I know my OTC (Bosch) 1300 scan tool does not have this measurement.
97-99 have a distributor. 00-06 have a camshaft synchronizer according to the FSM. We call it the oil pump drive assembly or OPDA for the 05-06.If i remember correctly, only the 2005-2006 wrangler have the OPDA ( large round black top). 1997- 2004 have what is called the camshaft synchronizer (little gray top).
How many miles on your rig?Slowly going over my recently purchased 2006 LJ doing PM etc. OPDA is coming up on my list of things to check/replace. I have seen lots of new items already done by previous owner such as new PCM.
Question...Is there a way for me to tell whether I have the original or a replacement OPDA? Maybe some identification on the outside? Its currently running fine...no strange noises. No service records available. Don't want to go to the expense and effort to replace it if its a new/redesigned one. I'll move on to shock replacement!
134KHow many miles on your rig?
If I were you and didn’t have symptoms, I would pull the old one out and inspect it. Check the shaft spins freely and inspect the gear drive. If all good, I may go the extra step and punch out the dowel pin and clean any carbon build up.
But, it’s also one of those things where you’re already taking the old one out. You might as well replace it with a new one. Your choice.