How to clean your Jeep Wrangler TJ frame

[FishinSam]

I was eyeballing up a frame for a "ground - up" build with a bit of interior rust but nice on the outside. Was wondering the best route to scrub and coat all the insides - now I KNOW!
Thanks for write up and introduction to the Clog Hog. Just so happens, I live in a rural area and one is hanging in the shed when I bought the place... SCORE!
It's a great day
Thanks for the post and thanks for Wrangler TJ Forum!

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

I feel I must warn folks against drilling holes in the top or bottom of their frames. This is specifically forbidden, in two places within the Factory Service Manual (I refer to the 2006 FSM but, I'm certain that the same warning is given in other years of the FSM):
"DRILLING HOLES
Do not drill holes in the top and bottom of frame rail, metal fatigue can result causing frame failure. Holes drilled in the side of the frame rail must be at least 38 mm (1.5 in.) from the top and bottom flanges.
Additional drill holes should be located away from existing holes"

I'm all for cleaning out the frame and coating it with an anti-rust coating, even in regions where that are not near the briny sea and salt or other road chemicals are not used. I have, in fact, done so myself (I used the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating). But, if Jeep says not to drill holes in the top and bottom of the frame because it will weaken it, I'd tend to believe them.

For those who have already drilled such holes, I would seriously consider welding a patch over them (and then spraying more coating in to reseal the welded area) or, at the very least, weld on a beefy washer or similar plate to strengthen the area around the hole.

Just my two pee.

 

[Westtown Willy]

I feel I must warn folks against drilling holes in the top or bottom of their frames. This is specifically forbidden, in two places within the Factory Service Manual (I refer to the 2006 FSM but, I'm certain that the same warning is given in other years of the FSM):

Indeed, and never take this medication with alcohol either . Seriously man if these retards that designed the frame & wrote that manual had removed their heads from their asses before approving the TJ frame we (mostly rust belters) wouldn’t have to drill holes in them to save them from demise. As it is you can either drill a hole you can put your pinky finger through or let Mother Nature & your friendly local Department of Transportation team up to give you one you can put your foot through.

Sometimes decisions are difficult, this isn't one of them.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

Do not drill holes in the top and bottom of frame rail, metal fatigue can result causing frame failure.

Sounds like just a liability warning to me.

Like @Westtown Willy, I'd rather have a 1/4" hole in the bottom then no frame at all.

 

[Mobusaki]

Adding the number of people who have drilled holes in their frames of various kinds, particularly the relatively small drainage holes discussed here, plus the number of years they have been on the road and the trail that way without incident, equals many, many years worth of real-world experience which shows it is perfectly fine to do.

And, yes, I want to believe that because I have already drilled the holes in mine. But seriously, it is safe and certainly better than letting it rust out.

 

[bruceco]

I drilled holes after I made up safety caps on the frame bottom 3 years ago.The rot in the frame alone I took out should have made it break.Unless it is a new frame or one from arizona you had better address the problem.If you are on the fence on this topic put a borescope into the frame,turn on the light ,open a beer and try to keep it down after what you see.I remember before I retired working for a hydroforming company .It was for chrysler we did most of our work for. We did some parts and they came out great according to the specs,thickness etc. Thought it was great until the engineering told me now they will take the cost down now. I said what do you mean.They will start by thinning the material . I would like to have the chrysler engineers(if that is what you want to call them )explain our tj frame problem.Especially not drilling holes in the bottom but putting one in for the auto transmission.Wonder why they left it open.That is my rant.Sorry.

 

[Mobusaki]

I drilled holes after I made up safety caps on the frame bottom 3 years ago.The rot in the frame alone I took out should have made it break.Unless it is a new frame or one from arizona you had better address the problem.If you are on the fence on this topic put a borescope into the frame,turn on the light ,open a beer and try to keep it down after what you see.I remember before I retired working for a hydroforming company .It was for chrysler we did most of our work for. We did some parts and they came out great according to the specs,thickness etc. Thought it was great until the engineering told me now they will take the cost down now. I said what do you mean.They will start by thinning the material . I would like to have the chrysler engineers(if that is what you want to call them )explain our tj frame problem.Especially not drilling holes in the bottom but putting one in for the auto transmission.Wonder why they left it open.That is my rant.Sorry.

I wouldn't keep the beer down. I live in western PA where the DMV thinks there will be mass death if they don't dump an inch of salt/brine all over the roads every time it hits 32 degrees, snow or not. When I bought my '03 in '15 the first thing I did was try to treat the rust. I felt like I did everything right (drilled holes, cleaned it out with hoses, magnets, fluid filmed the living daylights out of it) and I still have huge chunks of rust come loose any time I put my finger in there or wash it. I am endlessly envious of those who live in states where this is not an issue, or who live up north but were smart enough to get a TJ with a clean frame and keep it that way. Live and learn.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I wouldn't keep the beer down. I live in western PA where the DMV thinks there will be mass death if they don't dump an inch of salt/brine all over the roads every time it hits 32 degrees, snow or not. When I bought my '03 in '15 the first thing I did was try to treat the rust. I felt like I did everything right (drilled holes, cleaned it out with hoses, magnets, fluid filmed the living daylights out of it) and I still have huge chunks of rust come loose any time I put my finger in there or wash it. I am endlessly envious of those who live in states where this is not an issue, or who live up north but were smart enough to get a TJ with a clean frame and keep it that way. Live and learn.

Surprised to hear this after FluidFilm application. I've posted on here many times about this but the driver's side of my frame is pristine yet I pulled around 1/2 a gallon jug worth of rust chunks and flakes out of the passenger side shortly after purchasing. A couple scary thick pieces in there. I fluid film both sides religiously now and I haven't noticed more than some paper thin flakes during subsequent flushes. The outside of the frame is 99% spotless almost all around as the first owner had an undercoating applied in '06 or '07 according to the carfax.

I credit FluidFilm with stopping a lot of the worst internal rot and keeping the other side clean. Someday, I'm sure I'll have to repair that part of the frame but one side is better than both sides. If FF buys me a few more years, I think it's worth it.

 

[Mobusaki]

Surprised to hear this after FluidFilm application. I've posted on here many times about this but the driver's side of my frame is pristine yet I pulled around 1/2 a gallon jug worth of rust chunks and flakes out of the passenger side shortly after purchasing. A couple scary thick pieces in there. I fluid film both sides religiously now and I haven't noticed more than some paper thin flakes during subsequent flushes. The outside of the frame is 99% spotless almost all around as the first owner had an undercoating applied in '06 or '07 according to the carfax.

I credit FluidFilm with stopping a lot of the worst internal rot and keeping the other side clean. Someday, I'm sure I'll have to repair that part of the frame but one side is better than both sides. If FF buys me a few more years, I think it's worth it.

FF is great stuff and I love that it "creeps." I am telling you, I put a TON inside the frames, hoping it would creep into/around any loose rust I missed. I think that's exactly what it has been doing. If there's enough of it, it keeps penetrating through loose surface rust until it gets to bare metal. It tends to "lift" up the loose rust as it does this, and it will fall off. So while continuing to see large FF-coated chunks means the FF is working as intended, it is still discouraging and means my frame is likely not in as good of shape as I thought. Perhaps it mostly just means that I didn't do as good of a job cleaning the frame out initially as I thought I did. I was such a greenhorn back then. Lots of hard lessons.

But FF definitely works. I do hate how messy it makes the underside of the Jeep (I always look like a coal miner after wrenching), and how mud and dirt cake to it, but it works.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

FF is great stuff and I love that it "creeps." I am telling you, I put a TON inside the frames, hoping it would creep into/around any loose rust I missed. I think that's exactly what it has been doing. If there's enough of it, it keeps penetrating through loose surface rust until it gets to bare metal. It tends to "lift" up the loose rust as it does this, and it will fall off. So while continuing to see large FF-coated chunks means the FF is working as intended, it is still discouraging and means my frame is likely not in as good of shape as I thought. Perhaps it mostly just means that I didn't do as good of a job cleaning the frame out initially as I thought I did. I was such a greenhorn back then. Lots of hard lessons.

But FF definitely works. I do hate how messy it makes the underside of the Jeep (I always look like a coal miner after wrenching), and how mud and dirt cake to it, but it works.

X2 to this

Also not sure how you guys apply it, but this gun works great: https://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-gun-with-2-hoses-and-bottle.html I am sure its not as nice as the actual fluid film spray gun, but its practically the same.

 

[Mobusaki]

X2 to this

Also not sure how you guys apply it, but this gun works great: https://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-gun-with-2-hoses-and-bottle.html I am sure its not as nice as the actual fluid film spray gun, but its practically the same.

The aerosol cans work great, but something like what you linked to and a good compressor is great particularly if you're applying it once or twice yearly on multiple vehicles. There is a 360 deg hose attachment for the aerosol cans that is worthwhile also. It's useful for getting to tight spots where the large hoses don't fit. I coated the inside of my rock sliders with it, for instance. Google showed me this first just now and it looks identical to the FF wand I have:

https://www.eastwood.com/aerosol-no...09tPnwEpeGjeP8BumKdP15KrdsB2OHv8aAl9KEALw_wcB

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

The aerosol cans work great, but something like what you linked to and a good compressor is great particularly if you're applying it once or twice yearly on multiple vehicles. There is a 360 deg hose attachment for the aerosol cans that is worthwhile also. It's useful for getting to tight spots where the large hoses don't fit. I coated the inside of my rock sliders with it, for instance. Google showed me this first just now and it looks identical to the FF wand I have:

https://www.eastwood.com/aerosol-no...09tPnwEpeGjeP8BumKdP15KrdsB2OHv8aAl9KEALw_wcB

Nice, I need to pick up some extras. I originally bought Eastwood intending to coat the inside before I decided on FF instead. I kept the extend nozzles though after selling the cans and used a janky taped on coat hanger tool to get it all up in the deeper frame spots.

 

[Mobusaki]

Nice, I need to pick up some extras. I originally bought Eastwood intending to coat the inside before I decided on FF instead. I kept the extend nozzles though after selling the cans and used a janky taped on coat hanger tool to get it all up in the deeper frame spots.

Good choice. I've heard great things about Eastwood but the nice thing about FF is it is forgiving about prep work, and the inside of the frame is no easy place to prep. I tried POR 15 first on my frame ends and thought I had prepped them perfectly. Still peeled. Fluid film doesn't care.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Good choice. I've heard great things about Eastwood but the nice thing about FF is it is forgiving about prep work, and the inside of the frame is no easy place to prep. I tried POR 15 first on my frame ends and thought I had prepped them perfectly. Still peeled. Fluid film doesn't care.

That was my thought, I just didn't like covering up what I knew was already in there. I had no way to guarantee it was properly prepped, even after making one of those flail tools which worked pretty well. I think if you've got a pristine frame then yeah it's a great option. I don't have a problem getting dirty from time to time and checking everything up close before reapplying. All this talk is making me want to take a hammer or screwdriver to the passenger side ha, I haven't checked it thoroughly since salt season ended and the good weather hit

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

WOW...didn't think I'd start that much of a furor!
Anywho, I just mentioned it in case there was anyone who was not aware of Jeep's recommendation. It sparked a lot of good feedback though, so that's awesome

I am truly grateful that I do not have any major rust issues with my TJ and I do something just about every time I work on it to make sure it stays that way. My hat's off to those who have to deal with the salt and anti-icing chemicals every year. Stay strong friends!

 

[NDSpeed]

Need to get the bore scope out and have a look down the frame my self.

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

Need to get the bore scope out and have a look down the frame my self.

Does Alaska use de-icing chemicals? Probably naive of me but I figured you guys would just figure "if you aint got the vehicle to make it, live somewhere else". Of course, that wouldn't include the snow plows...I'm sure there would be no way to have roads at all without those.

 

[NDSpeed]

Does Alaska use de-icing chemicals? Probably naive of me but I figured you guys would just figure "if you aint got the vehicle to make it, live somewhere else". Of course, that wouldn't include the snow plows...I'm sure there would be no way to have roads at all without those.

Up north here they use rocks. Pebbles Everywhere the road is usually covered in 3-4 “ of ice all winter.

 

[Sparky06]

FF is great stuff and I love that it "creeps." I am telling you, I put a TON inside the frames, hoping it would creep into/around any loose rust I missed. I think that's exactly what it has been doing. If there's enough of it, it keeps penetrating through loose surface rust until it gets to bare metal. It tends to "lift" up the loose rust as it does this, and it will fall off. So while continuing to see large FF-coated chunks means the FF is working as intended, it is still discouraging and means my frame is likely not in as good of shape as I thought. Perhaps it mostly just means that I didn't do as good of a job cleaning the frame out initially as I thought I did. I was such a greenhorn back then. Lots of hard lessons.

But FF definitely works. I do hate how messy it makes the underside of the Jeep (I always look like a coal miner after wrenching), and how mud and dirt cake to it, but it works.

I’m about to tackle this project as well. There’s a company out of the UK called Bilt Hamber. Stumbled upon them watching car detailing vids on You Tube. They have a product called sumac S50 . It’s specifically made for internal frame and voids. Best part about it is , their products are available from a company in Eastern Pennsylvania.
My Jeep sees salt year round . From the over application on the roads , to driving on the beach in Cape Hatteras. Can’t thank everyone on this forum enough for all the “ How To “ articles. Saved me so much $$$ by allowing me to do the preventative maintenance and repairs myself.

https://clean-garage.com/bilt-hamber-dynax-s50-750ml-aerosol-anti-corrosion-wax/

 

[Sparky06]

I’m about to tackle this project as well. There’s a company out of the UK called Bilt Hamber. Stumbled upon them watching car detailing vids on You Tube. They have a product called sumac S50 . It’s specifically made for internal frame and voids. Best part about it is , their products are available from a company in Eastern Pennsylvania.
My Jeep sees salt year round . From the over application on the roads , to driving on the beach in Cape Hatteras. Can’t thank everyone on this forum enough for all the “ How To “ articles. Saved me so much $$$ by allowing me to do the preventative maintenance and repairs myself.

https://clean-garage.com/bilt-hamber-dynax-s50-750ml-aerosol-anti-corrosion-wax/

Sumac S50 ?? Stupid I-phone !
Dynax s50