How To Outboard Fox 2.0 RR Shocks
- Thread starter hosejockey61
- Start date
You couldn't pay me to put my jeep on their trailer. I don't care about those "scores" one bit.
Question about the frame cut. I did a lot of research and I found that you cut the bottom all the way back to the inside wall of the frame but you leave 3/16”-1/4” at the top. You use this to fine tune the tilt of the shock tower. If you cut the top all the way back to the inside wall of the frame and then tilt the tower inward to fine tune for clearances won’t you have a big gap to deal with when welding?
I use Filmora by Wondershare. It does as you describe. They sell a one time license for $70 or a $40/mo (edit: $40/YEAR, not month) subscription. I do the subscription because it includes updates. The one time gets patches and bug fixes for the version you buy but I'm now on 11 and started on 9.
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I was also wondering how, once you've cut all the way back to the frame, you could make much shock tower adjustment when you cycle the suspension with full bump on one side and full droop on the other if the shock body happened to contact the tower on one side or the other. In this case it worked out without contact.
We didn't tilt the mount on this one. The new tower is right up against the back wall of the frame. We had no less than a 1/4" gap between the frame and the shock body.
I think VLC media player can do it .. and it is open source. There are several more in the Linux world that have been ported over to windows.
I did mine that way about 5 years ago. I don't think it is necessary.
Someone with many shock outboard jobs explained the ease and benefits of standing the tower up straight after doing more than can be remembered easily.
I mistakenly typed that the subscription was $40/mo, which would be Adobe levels of ripoff. I edited my post to reflect that it's $40/year. For a fully featured video editing software full of stock content for music, transitions, elements, titles, etc.
He did. Doing it this way is far easier when you realize all the fussiness of precisely tilting the towers doesn't really result in a better job.
The thinking was to make sure the shock body cleared the mount at the far reaches of the travel. This would be more of a concern with a track bar making the axle shift the furthest over to the passenger side.
But at some point, Blaine noticed that there is plenty of room even with a track bar. So it is just easier to stand the tower up against the inner wall of the frame.
But only by virtue of moving the lower end out against the friction welds.
OP
I'll have to measure where the friction welds are in relation to the flange. I've rebuilt a lot of axles that don't have friction rings. I suppose too far out and the tire becomes an issue.
I hear using the Poly Performance shock towers are the preferred towers. I'm assuming it has something to do with the offset of the upper mounting location.
I have a set of Genright Towers. Are they comparable to the Poly towers? Or should I be looking to swap them for Poly Performance towers for better installation?
I have a set of Genright Towers. Are they comparable to the Poly towers? Or should I be looking to swap them for Poly Performance towers for better installation?