How to press out upper control arm bushing?

[k-huevo]

I used a press & pull bushing removal and insertion tool. The receiver cup required modification to seat flush with the housing ear. The kit has a wide range of cup/driver sizes, but the majority are skewed toward larger bushings. For small bushing and bearings I use sockets.

 

[mrblaine]

I used a press & pull bushing removal and insertion tool. The receiver cup required modification to seat flush with the housing ear. The kit has a wide range of cup/driver sizes, but the majority are skewed toward larger bushings. For small bushing and bearings I use sockets.
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That only works on the Dana 30's. The bushing is in the exact same spot on the Dana 44 but the casting is larger so it goes up around the lower part of the mount just enough that you can't get a straight shot with a sleeve to push it out. I suppose you could make a sleeve that is about 3/4's of the way around but a hammer is faster and I don't do that many.

 

[Brad W]

If replacing all control arms, one at a time is the easiest I find. If stock arms, then its easier to just buy new control arms from RockAuto at $25 a piece. Axle bushings IIRC are the same uppers front and rear. However the lowers front and rear are different. I think its easiest to use a ball joint press to remove the axle bushing, though drilling out the rubber works too.

I would like to but I have the JKS ones from years back the the PO installed.

 

[cliffish]

Do the axle bushings typically last longer than the rest of the control arm bushings? If they don't I am not sure why they would not be included in any of the control arm kits like the crown.

 

[k-huevo]

I have Moog replacement bushings (K3128); that didn't do me any good. The MOPAR Miller tool has a U shaped spacer for inserting between the sides of the passenger side mount bracket to prevent distortion when removing and installing a bushing. The spacer is 1" wide, which would fit in a healthy/un-bent UCA mount. The sides of my mounting bracket had collapsed inward .20". The bracket was also bent. Because of corrosion and distortion there would be a risk a new bushing sleeve would not fit firmly after removing the original. My guess is UCA axle bushings are not included in CA kits because of the potential problems with fitment.

 

[KCsTJ]

@k-huevo if i understand, the push/pull/insertion kit is just for the axle.mount bushing?
It would not work on the other CA bushings , they need a bearing press (?) If i understand.
Im told look at Harbor Freight...
I'm fixin to lay out some cash for bushing removal tools but want to get the right type.

 

[astjp2]

Control arms can be done on a press, the axle mount ones, use Blaine's method with a hammer or drill them out and use a punch to knock out the sleeve.

 

[SamwiseGamJeep]

X 2..... the 2 attached to the axle housing are a royal pain.

Working on this job now.
And it is a pita. It almost discouraged me.
Anyone have any pointers after rubber is drilled out of center? Where to start smacking it to deform, what chisel, I have cold chisels, air hammer and bits, sawzalls, ball joint press borrowed from @AndyG ,
Exhausted, after hours of work, and just now got the rubber out of center of passenger side bushing. Had to quit, hope to finish tomorrow, and doing more research tonight while I lick my wounds and sit on a heat pad with my Beagle.

 

[KennethS]

Last time I replaced axle bushings on my 71 Cutlass I used an air chisel with the end ground flat. Worked the flange of the bushing up then used the flat end to drive the bushing out. A regular chisel cut the shell but the flat one would drive it out.

 

[NskLJ]

Working on this job now.
And it is a pita. It almost discouraged me.
Anyone have any pointers after rubber is drilled out of center? Where to start smacking it to deform, what chisel, I have cold chisels, air hammer and bits, sawzalls, ball joint press borrowed from @AndyG ,
Exhausted, after hours of work, and just now got the rubber out of center of passenger side bushing. Had to quit, hope to finish tomorrow, and doing more research tonight while I lick my wounds and sit on a heat pad with my Beagle.

A couple ways I would approach this. A piece of tubing on one side and a washer or bearing race driver on the other side with threaded rod through the middle you may be able to press it out that way. Ball joint press but space is limited. You can also try an air hammer with a dull chisel bit to get behind the lip and gently work it out. Go slow try not to cut the metal just try to move it. If you have the rubber out you can use the air hammer to collapse the sleeve inward until you get it moving. I have two chisel bits one I keep sharp and one that is dull so not to cut.

 

[Vtx531]

What I did- Biggest punch you can find. Like 18" long and a big sledge hammer. Give it hell! Sort of work (smash) the metal sleeve toward the center of the hole.