How to repair a broken air compressor in a Warn PowerPlant

[fuse]

The Warn PowerPlant is kind of an odd duck. It's a combination winch and air compressor, with the compressor driven by the winch motor. Warn released two models around 2007 (and updated them in 2013), a 9,500 lb. version and a 12,000 lb. version. The two models differ mainly in the planetary gearing, with lower gearing providing the extra pulling power for the 12,000 lb. model at a lower line speed.

Underneath the aluminum cover, the body of the winch has some similarities to the M8000 and 9.5 Ti winches and does share a few parts with these models. But the air compressor and housing are unique, and there are many parts that are specific to the PowerPlant models.

It's kind of a heavy winch, but swapping in a synthetic rope makes it lighter. The air compressor puts out 5 CFM at 90 PSI which airs up big tires pretty quickly and could possibly be used to run small air tools (but nothing like an impact wrench). Some people might say this winch makes a better boat anchor, but I happen to like mine.

Unfortunately, Warn discontinued the PowerPlant models and doesn't provide service for them anymore. Fortunately (as of 2020), both Redding Four Wheel Drive (https://www.winchserviceparts.com/) and Montana Jack's (https://www.montanajacks.com/) still sell service parts for these winches.

One potential problem with this winch is that with enough wear and use, the compressor piston head can separate and jam in the cylinder, breaking the piston shaft. That happened to me recently.

In these winches, the mode switch will disconnect the drum when you're running the air compressor, but the compressor piston has a direct connection to the motor, so it runs even when you're just using the winch. That means that a busted compressor also takes your winch out of service.

I broke down the winch to identify parts that needed replacement, ordered the parts, and repaired the compressor. I figure that since these are unusual winches and there's not much support for them, a how-to might be useful for someone.

 

[Blackjack]

Ah the Powerplant, my least favorite winch to work on. If you do not have any luck on some of the parts let me know, I have a parts winch that might have what you need.

 

[Mr. Bills]

A friend of mine owns a 12,000# Warn Powerplant and recently had issues with the air compressor. He sent it to Jack at Redding Four Wheel Drive (winchserviceparts.com) to have the unit rebuilt, who brought it to me when it was finished to hold for pick up.

I was familiar with that particular Powerplant before Jack went to work and had ample opportunity to inspect it afterward. Jack's work is impeccable and when he was finished that winch was in many ways better than new.

In my opinion, Jack knows more about Warn winches than Warn. While we were in my garage, Warn called him twice with technical questions they couldn't answer. That speaks volumes.

BTW, Redding Four Wheel Drive gave up its lease in Redding when the pandemic hit the North State. Jack and his wife used to commute from Trinity Lake every day. Now Jack works exclusively from his shop in Trinity Lake and has a pickup/dropoff spot in Redding.

 

[fuse]

First things first. The winch has to come off the Jeep. That means disconnecting the power cables from the battery and freeing the air intake for the compressor. I find it easier to get at the footing bolts if I take the winch plate off.

The mode switch cover comes off first because it attaches to both the lower cover and the drum support (use 1/8" hex key). Then the upper and lower covers can come off as one piece. Just remove the lower cover bolts (use 5/32" hex key). Note that the screws on the right side of the cover are different sizes. The longest screw goes in the right front position, and the other long screw goes in the right rear position.

Next you have to remove the copper tube that connects the compressor head to the intercooler / air tank using 5/8" and 9/16" wrenches. The tube slides out after you loosen the couplings.

The head, valve, and cylinder can come off at the point because I know I need to get in there. If you were just working on the drum and gear train you could leave this alone. There are gaskets between each of these parts and if they're old like mine they may not come apart cleanly.

You can see the wear and scarring on the cylinder from age and from the piston failure. Here's another pic of the carnage.

Disconnect the wires to the pressure switch in the intercooler. Then with a 3/16" hex key, remove the bolts that hold the two halves of the winch together. These bolts go through the intercooler and the lower rear bolt is recessed. When these bolts are out, the two halves of the winch just slide apart.

My drum support bushing (the plastic ring in the center) seems to be in good shape, but the drum seal is torn. The drum support bushing and seal pop out for cleaning or replacement. It's easier to see everything once the grease and dirt are cleaned up. You can also see the five bolts that hold the halves of the crankcase together, three around the drum seal and two at the top by the cylinder.

Take those five bolts out with a 5/32" hex key, and it's possible to split the crankcase. You may need to find a gap to pry it open if it's stuck, or use some leverage from inside the cylinder opening. My crankcase gasket fell apart when I separated the halves, which was a problem later.

Pull the wire harness out of the slot in the case and use a 5/16" hex key to remove the bolt to take out the micro switch. When you're doing this, note that the micro switch lever goes on TOP of the mode fork. Then the mode fork and spring slide out.

... to be continued ...

 

[fuse]

... Part 2 ...

The motor pulley, belt, and crankshaft slide out together. My belt is split, probably from when the piston jammed, so I'll need a replacement. This is a standard 300-3M-15 belt, so I ordered one from Gates for about 1/3 of the price of the Warn part.

The crankcase gasket wasn't included with any of the replacement parts I ordered, so I figured I would seal the case up with some RTV. Do not do this — it doesn't work! The crankcase halves need the 1/32" gasket to be spaced properly. Without the gasket, the bolts for the cylinder head won't line up with the holes in the crankcase. Note how the cylinder gasket holes are offset from the crankcase holes.

As far as I can tell, the gasket is only sold as part of a kit with the crankcase housing. Instead of buying the whole kit, I got some Fel-Pro gasket material, took a print of the housing and cut my own gasket. It's not pretty, but it will get the job done.

After cleaning up the crankcase, put some moly lube on the armature shaft. I hear Warn specs high-temperature, high-pressure aircraft grease, but Jack at Redding Four Wheel Drive says he just uses regular wheel bearing grease and as @Mr. Bills points out, Jack knows what he's doing. He's also a super nice guy.

Put some grease on the new piston shafts and install the old thrust washers. Line up the pulley, belt, and piston with the counterweight at 12 o'clock. Then slide the pulley and crankshaft into place. It takes a little wiggling to get everything seated but shouldn't require any muscle.

Put a little grease on the shaft then drop in the mode fork and spring. Bolt the micro switch back in place with the lever on TOP of the mode fork, reseat the wire harness, and put the new gasket in place.

Put the two halves of the crankcase back together with the five bolts and 5/32" hex key.

Install the new cylinder, valve, and head with new gaskets. It helps if you angle the cylinder when sliding it down over the piston. Make sure the alignment pins match up. It helps if you leave the cylinder bolts a little loose at this point so that it's easier to line up the tube to the intercooler.

Replace the drum support bushing and drum seal. Grease the inside of both the bushing and the drum seal. Note that the notch in the drum support bushing has to line up with the key in the housing.

... continued again ...

 

[fuse]

... Part 3 ...

Now both halves of the winch can go back together again. The clutch ring in the mode fork has to line up with the motor coupler in the drum. There's also a stud on the crankcase that has to line up with a notch in the back of the intercooler. I found it easiest to tip the whole winch on its end and lower the motor side into place.

If you set the winch back down, the two halves will fall apart. While holding the halves together, slide the top rear bolt through the intercooler and snug it down to hold everything together. With that bolt in place, it should be easy to get the other two bolts through the intercooler threaded in. Tighten all three bolts up, then reconnect the wires to the air pressure switch.

Reattach the tube from the cylinder head to the intercooler. Don't forget to tighten the cylinder bolts down if you left them loose earlier. Then reinstall the main covers and the mode switch cover.

Now the winch is ready to be reinstalled on the Jeep!

 

[Mr. Bills]

I think you just set the standard for Warn Powerplant how-to's.

 

[fuse]

A friend of mine owns a 12,000# Warn Powerplant and recently had issues with the air compressor. He sent it to Jack at Redding Four Wheel Drive (winchserviceparts.com) to have the unit rebuilt, who brought it to me when it was finished to hold for pick up.

I was familiar with that particular Powerplant before Jack went to work and had ample opportunity to inspect it afterward. Jack's work is impeccable and when he was finished that winch was in many ways better than new.

In my opinion, Jack knows more about Warn winches than Warn. While we were in my garage, Warn called him twice with technical questions they couldn't answer. That speaks volumes.

BTW, Redding Four Wheel Drive gave up its lease in Redding when the pandemic hit the North State. Jack and his wife used to commute from Trinity Lake every day. Now Jack works exclusively from his shop in Trinity Lake and has a pickup/dropoff spot in Redding.

I'll second that. I ordered my replacement parts from Jack and spoke to him on the phone before placing the order. He clearly knows what he's talking about and took the time to walk me through the repair while pointing out specific things to watch out for.

 

[fuse]

I think you just set the standard for Warn Powerplant how-to's.

For the small audience who's still awake.

 

[Chris]

I didn’t even know Warn made such a thing

 

[fuse]

I didn’t even know Warn made such a thing

If you think this winch is odd, check out the XRC10 HD which was Smittybilt's answer to the PowerPlant.

 

[Chris]

If you think this winch is odd, check out the XRC10 HD which was Smittybilt's answer to the PowerPlant.

View attachment 213156

Damn, I guess all this makes for one heavy front bumper!

 

[fuse]

Damn, I guess all this makes for one heavy front bumper!

Off the shelf, they're about 100 lbs. With steel cable the Warn 9.5Ti weighs in at 89 lbs. and the M8000 is 74 lbs. So the PowerPlant is heavier, but not by that much.

Switching to synthetic helps.

 

[Blackjack]

I didn’t even know Warn made such a thing

Warn got into the compressor business years ago but it never really took off other than the Powerplant. I do like the concept of the Powerplant it just has some issues in its implementation. Its biggest problem is there is no real way to make the compressor waterproof so if you wheel where it is wet you will have issues with it, The other issue is that compressor section always runs so without some mods the discharge from the tank is open to the atmosphere giving a ingress point.

 

[fuse]

Warn got into the compressor business years ago but it never really took off other than the Powerplant. I do like the concept of the Powerplant it just has some issues in its implementation. Its biggest problem is there is no real way to make the compressor waterproof so if you wheel where it is wet you will have issues with it, The other issue is that compressor section always runs so without some mods the discharge from the tank is open to the atmosphere giving a ingress point.

It's true.

The PowerPlant air compressor outlet is open. Worst case, that could fill the intercooler and compressor cylinder with water. That's not great, but you could clear that out pretty easily. And I'm sure there's a way to seal that outlet when it's not in use.

But that's not the worst of it. The crankcase has to vent to prevent pressure differentials when the piston is running. There is a vent back into the air intake, which is sealed. That's good. However, there's also a small vent/drain at the bottom of the crankcase housing.

So there's really nothing to prevent the crankcase from filling with water if it's submerged. And from there the water can get into the motor, drum brake, and gear train.

There aren't a whole lot of truly waterproof air compressors, but if the air compressor is separate you can put it somewhere where it's not going to get wet. And Warn's classic winches are water resistant, not waterproof. But because it combines the air compressor and winch, the PowerPlant isn't even water resistant.

If all you need is protection from the elements, Warn makes a neoprene cover that will do the job. But if the front end of your Jeep goes underwater frequently, this is not the winch for you.

 

[meirbeny]

It's true.

The PowerPlant air compressor outlet is open. Worst case, that could fill the intercooler and compressor cylinder with water. That's not great, but you could clear that out pretty easily. And I'm sure there's a way to seal that outlet when it's not in use.

But that's not the worst of it. The crankcase has to vent to prevent pressure differentials when the piston is running. There is a vent back into the air intake, which is sealed. That's good. However, there's also a small vent/drain at the bottom of the crankcase housing.

View attachment 213380

So there's really nothing to prevent the crankcase from filling with water if it's submerged. And from there the water can get into the motor, drum brake, and gear train.

There aren't a whole lot of truly waterproof air compressors, but if the air compressor is separate you can put it somewhere where it's not going to get wet. And Warn's classic winches are water resistant, not waterproof. But because it combines the air compressor and winch, the PowerPlant isn't even water resistant.

If all you need is protection from the elements, Warn makes a neoprene cover that will do the job. But if the front end of your Jeep goes underwater frequently, this is not the winch for you.

I think it's advisable to upload it to the forum. This is a quality level diagram I made myself from a simple diagram I found online. After the Winch failed. And due to the high prices of a Warren contactor I made the change with a $ 20 connector I purchased

 

[Trail Turtle]

... Part 3 ...

Now both halves of the winch can go back together again. The clutch ring in the mode fork has to line up with the motor coupler in the drum. There's also a stud on the crankcase that has to line up with a notch in the back of the intercooler. I found it easiest to tip the whole winch on its end and lower the motor side into place.

View attachment 212971

If you set the winch back down, the two halves will fall apart. While holding the halves together, slide the top rear bolt through the intercooler and snug it down to hold everything together. With that bolt in place, it should be easy to get the other two bolts through the intercooler threaded in. Tighten all three bolts up, then reconnect the wires to the air pressure switch.

View attachment 212972 View attachment 212973

Reattach the tube from the cylinder head to the intercooler. Don't forget to tighten the cylinder bolts down if you left them loose earlier. Then reinstall the main covers and the mode switch cover.

View attachment 212974 View attachment 212975

Now the winch is ready to be reinstalled on the Jeep!

 

[Trail Turtle]

Awesome job on the rebuild notes thanks Fuse. Just in the process of replacing the contactor assembly on a Warn Powerplant 12000, which we got through Jack at Reddings. Just a question around the motor shaft comment and armature housing in the installation guide - how much pressure should be applied to prevent the brushes needing a reset?

 

[fuse]

Awesome job on the rebuild notes thanks Fuse. Just in the process of replacing the contactor assembly on a Warn Powerplant 12000, which we got through Jack at Reddings. Just a question around the motor shaft comment and armature housing in the installation guide - how much pressure should be applied to prevent the brushes needing a reset?

View attachment 275071

I did not remove the motor from the crank case cover when I was rebuilding the compressor. Based on the instructions, though, I would just put a finger on the motor shaft and press on it to keep it from sliding out of place while separating the motor from the crank case cover.

 

[OFF2BFE]

I have a Powerplant… fixed the contacts twice, newer used the compressor because it quit working not long after I got it