How to repair multifunction switch for fog lights (fog lights that won't turn off)

I got run off the DIYMA forums for saying something like that about these AudioFrog speakers I purchased. That forum is full of Democrantifas.

It doesn't take a genius to figure it out. Two parts look identical, but have two different brand names. Someone didn't set up two different manufacturing facilities and invest in the tooling and equipment required to build said product, which is a dead ringer for the same product from another "brand".

These is what the Chinese do. Flood the market with a million copies of the same thing.

Sounds like those guys just can't put two and two together.
 
It doesn't take a genius to figure it out. Two parts look identical, but have two different brand names. Someone didn't set up two different manufacturing facilities and invest in the tooling and equipment required to build said product, which is a dead ringer for the same product from another "brand".

These is what the Chinese do. Flood the market with a million copies of the same thing.

Sounds like those guys just can't put two and two together.

So true, like I remember looking for a hydraulic jack lift and they were just different colors, northern tool to harbor freight and all from China.
 
So true, like I remember looking for a hydraulic jack lift and they were just different colors, northern tool to harbor freight and all from China.

Yep, all from China! It would be interesting to actually sit down and figure out how much stuff we see is just the same stuff with different colors and names printed on them.

That applies to anything from audio equipment to jack stands.
 
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Just completed the fix. However, I took a little bit of a different approach. I super glued a piece of a credit card to the spot then used electrical heat shrink. It's solid and working.
 
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Did this repair today on my '04 Rubi. Simple and fast and save me 100 bucks! BTW, new to forum. Glad to find one that has folks that know what they are talking about.
 
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I don’t know why.... but I took it apart and fixed it. Fog lights work now however the turning signals were not working.

the second time I took it out, the high beams were “on” and the Jeep wouldnt stop beeping as if I had left them on when “leaving the vehicle”. Turning signal not working.


Took it out again, moved some stuff around. Then high beams were no longer “on” but something made all lights inside start flickering. and turning signals didn’t work yet even with the keys inside.

What am I doing wrong?
 
Back to back Silver TJR updates...My fix was working great except I couldn't use my high beams. Took the unit apart and a little black ball had broken off and fell out. Unfortunately I just ordered a new assembly from Amazon. Paid a little more for the Omix because the Crown one had some mixed reviews.
 
After I repaired mine I was still having issues with turn signals and a beeping in the dash. I decided to just spend the money for a new Mopar one which still didn't sort it out as it was doing the same thing. Eventually, I replaced the LED lights & flasher with stock type units and it's all worked like it should since. My old multifunction switch is good but is now a backup unit on a shelf in my shop.
 
Update: I took it off, I cleaned the insides, removed old grease and put new electrical grease. It fixed the issue. Everything is working fine now
 
Here's an alternative write-up (though almost identical) to the one @bobthetj03 posted:

My 2003 Jeep Wrangler started magically turning on the fog lights while I had it parked. This issue kept getting worse until I could not get the lights to stay off without touching the switch. At first I was able to put my left turn signal on and this was just a temporary fix. I went to the dealer and they told me the switch would cost me $260 this is why I wanted to fix the existing switch. I want to keep my jeep nice and running another switch somewhere else would just bug me.

This write up includes removing the switch from the steering column.

Tools Needed
First you need to remove the steering the column plastic cover there are two screws in the holes closest to the steering wheel. Phillips

View attachment 10683

Now you can remove the two T20 screws on top of the multifunction switch. There are two harness plugs going into this switch which both have a red tab that need to be pulled out (but not completely) in order to be unplugged.

View attachment 10684

Now the entire switch assembly can be removed.

View attachment 10685

View attachment 10686

Next you need to remove the relay, two T10 screws, and the wire plug which has two black wires on it.

View attachment 10687

View attachment 10688 This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.
View attachment 10689

Now you need to carefully used a small flat head work your way around the piece being careful not to break any plastic.

View attachment 10722

Once this is done your switch is exposed and you should be able to see your problem.

View attachment 10723

View attachment 10724

A closer look will show you this.

View attachment 10725


Under the cover you can see what all is happening and why your fog lights will not say off. The white plastic piece has worn down and can no longer lift the metal piece far enough to stop the circuit.

View attachment 10726

If this seems to be your problem then your fix will be easy. Next you need to remove one more T10 screw. This will now lift out easily but before you do this remove all the pieces on top that are not secured down.

View attachment 10727

Now you will see the the lifter completely exposed. Pull it up and lightly press it down so you can remove it. I had to slide mine to the left.

View attachment 10728

Now you are ready to put some JB Weld on the part to build it up to its original length. (I used JB quick Weld but either will work) Before this step you might want to clean the part to ensure the glue will stick. I used side cuts to clean the part up from where it had actually smashed/melted down.

View attachment 10729

After the glue has dried you can now put it all back together and test it out.
Thanks so much! This was very helpful.

I used a UV resin instead of JB Weld. Just five minutes under a UV light and it's hard. Strength didn't seem important to me for this application, just hardness.

Also the little post that comes up and opens the switch was melted for me. It didn't want to move freely. So I trimmed the sides of mine a little.

I also took this opportunity to freshen up the various contacts and to liberally apply fresh dielectric grease everywhere.

Now my fog lights turn off. Yay!

It would have been a much better design if they had made the fog light switch naturally open instead of naturally closed. That way it would only wear down when the fog lights are on. Oh well.
 
Read this thread last night just for some general info. Well I found my fog lights on two times today. Had not happened before to my knowledge. At least I know the fix.
 
I had this happen last year, Temp fix was placing my indicator on right turn. Eventually that stopped working.
I disconnected my fog lights while my Dash displays it still on. Went to the dealer to see what a replacement was gonna cost. "$330" canadian Lol.

Disconnect your fogs til you find the time to fix the situation.
 
I just did this fix this weekend. I am so glad this guide exists. Only issue I had was the stuff for the brights fell out and I put it together wrong to start with and had to take it back apart and figure out how it was supposed to go.

Now my fog light switch works great.
 
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Here's an alternative write-up (though almost identical) to the one @bobthetj03 posted:

My 2003 Jeep Wrangler started magically turning on the fog lights while I had it parked. This issue kept getting worse until I could not get the lights to stay off without touching the switch. At first I was able to put my left turn signal on and this was just a temporary fix. I went to the dealer and they told me the switch would cost me $260 this is why I wanted to fix the existing switch. I want to keep my jeep nice and running another switch somewhere else would just bug me.

This write up includes removing the switch from the steering column.

Tools Needed
First you need to remove the steering the column plastic cover there are two screws in the holes closest to the steering wheel. Phillips

View attachment 10683

Now you can remove the two T20 screws on top of the multifunction switch. There are two harness plugs going into this switch which both have a red tab that need to be pulled out (but not completely) in order to be unplugged.

View attachment 10684

Now the entire switch assembly can be removed.

View attachment 10685

View attachment 10686

Next you need to remove the relay, two T10 screws, and the wire plug which has two black wires on it.

View attachment 10687

View attachment 10688 This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.
View attachment 10689

Now you need to carefully used a small flat head work your way around the piece being careful not to break any plastic.

View attachment 10722

Once this is done your switch is exposed and you should be able to see your problem.

View attachment 10723

View attachment 10724

A closer look will show you this.

View attachment 10725


Under the cover you can see what all is happening and why your fog lights will not say off. The white plastic piece has worn down and can no longer lift the metal piece far enough to stop the circuit.

View attachment 10726

If this seems to be your problem then your fix will be easy. Next you need to remove one more T10 screw. This will now lift out easily but before you do this remove all the pieces on top that are not secured down.

View attachment 10727

Now you will see the the lifter completely exposed. Pull it up and lightly press it down so you can remove it. I had to slide mine to the left.

View attachment 10728

Now you are ready to put some JB Weld on the part to build it up to its original length. (I used JB quick Weld but either will work) Before this step you might want to clean the part to ensure the glue will stick. I used side cuts to clean the part up from where it had actually smashed/melted down.

View attachment 10729

After the glue has dried you can now put it all back together and test it out.


I found the problem to be wear on the other side of this lever. This wear is from the operation of the turn signal lever with 100K miles on the TJ. Fill the hole with JB Weld and sand the surface smooth. Apply a lubricant to the surface and re-assemble.
TJ Fog Lt Sw Repair.jpg
 
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After doing this fix I started to smell smoke and I had identified it coming from the epoxy I used to build up the lever. I have upgraded the fog lights and am nervous that there is too much energy moving through the circuit... I was able to produce a fix by boring out a hole and cutting a piece of coat hanger to create a more stable heat resistant lever, but the underlying concern is that the circuit will over heat. Do people use solid state relays to avoid this? Is this something I should be concerned about burning up the multifunction switch? Am I overthinking this?