How to replace the heater core on a Jeep Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter JFjeld
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I would check the blend door to verify it is closing all the way. Then see if you can pull the blower motor to check the temp of the core, I don’t know if the evaporator will be in the way.
I installed a Performance Radiator core about a month ago. The heat output is very good. I'd say it works just as well as the OE core did (without putting a temp probe on it).
I just got the dreaded antifreeze leak on passenger floorboard.
Oddly, this is shortly after completing a thorough Prestone/Thermocure flush.
Anyway, Performance Radiator is out of stock for the correct replacement.
Any brands other than the $329 Brassworks I should be looking for?
Is Crown Automotive generally crap or good to go?
Oddly, this is shortly after completing a thorough Prestone/Thermocure flush.
Anyway, Performance Radiator is out of stock for the correct replacement.
Any brands other than the $329 Brassworks I should be looking for?
Is Crown Automotive generally crap or good to go?
Try giving them a call at performance radiator it’s probably a website issue and not a out of stock issue.
They had 485 of them in the Freeatle warehouse when they got me my warranty replacement
Give them a call
Give them a call
Thanks. I called the number on the website and they directed me to the closest store in New Orleans. The guy who answered wanted to argue they were available on the website, but he took my order anyway. Now to start disassembling my Jeep...
Glad you were able to find one from Performance. I haven't heard anything good about the Brassworks option.
I got the same issue of a leak after Prestone and Thermocure. I think that the reason is that there was too much rust in the heater core, and thermocure dissolved it and exposed the leak.
I wanted to send a big thanks to the OP for this thread. I just completed my heater core/evaporator R&R using this guide and it all went great.
Some recommend leaving the dash in place, but I personally don't see an advantage to that. Removing the steering column and dash would have been the easiest part if it weren't for figuring out how each electrical connector was locked. But they all disconnected just fine, and having all that out of the way made the rest so easy to deal with. Got some things cleaned and accessory wiring tidied up along the way. The hardest part by far was removing the nut behind the cylinder head.
Mine is an 06 6-speed, so the main differences are that I had to remove the fuse block and the shifter console to get the HVAC unit out.
Despite being slightly more than modestly mechanically inclined, I've been dreading this job. But I have to say it really isn't a big deal if you take your time. Five out of five stars. Like. Subscribe. Would recommend to a friend. Whatever the kids are saying these days. Just do it.
Some recommend leaving the dash in place, but I personally don't see an advantage to that. Removing the steering column and dash would have been the easiest part if it weren't for figuring out how each electrical connector was locked. But they all disconnected just fine, and having all that out of the way made the rest so easy to deal with. Got some things cleaned and accessory wiring tidied up along the way. The hardest part by far was removing the nut behind the cylinder head.
Mine is an 06 6-speed, so the main differences are that I had to remove the fuse block and the shifter console to get the HVAC unit out.
Despite being slightly more than modestly mechanically inclined, I've been dreading this job. But I have to say it really isn't a big deal if you take your time. Five out of five stars. Like. Subscribe. Would recommend to a friend. Whatever the kids are saying these days. Just do it.
That’s what I believe happened to my freeze plug that failed after thermocuring the cooling system a while back. But that was a steel part.
Not sure if this would have caused your issue if the core is aluminum since I believe aluminum oxide doubles as a protective barrier to the substrate that prevents inner material from being oxidized. You may have removed that layer during the thermocure (not sure if it removes aluminum oxide) but even if it did, the remaining substrate should have been good to go.
For example, Anodizing aluminum is the process of growing aluminum oxide (corrosion) on the part to protect the substrate. It doesn’t harm the material, it protects it.
Maybe the core has steel in it?
I’ve only done this job once in a tiny car and it was dreadful. I’m terrified of ever needing to do it, but I appreciate your encouraging post. I may end up needing the encouragement again some day.
Congrats on knocking that out!
I still didn’t install a replacement. I thinking whether I really want to install a replacement, or skip and install small heater core and a small 4 inch fan inside the cowl area where the intake is near the hood, so that the air will be already preheated. I think that given the low quality of replacement non OEM heater cores, I don’t want to deal with it.
This way, I will use my AC system in the car in two modes mainly:
Cooling - air is circulated inside the vehicle and cooled by the factory ac system
Heating - air is from outside, from the factory location, but in that area air is preheated so no need to heat it again. Will not be as hot as factory, but I live in Texas, and it does not get as cold here as in the north, so this partial solution will be enough for heating and defrosting.
This way, I will use my AC system in the car in two modes mainly:
Cooling - air is circulated inside the vehicle and cooled by the factory ac system
Heating - air is from outside, from the factory location, but in that area air is preheated so no need to heat it again. Will not be as hot as factory, but I live in Texas, and it does not get as cold here as in the north, so this partial solution will be enough for heating and defrosting.
Never considered anything like that, interesting.
One thing I like about the stock set up is being able to cool the cooling system by running heat with the fan on high. Upon purchase, my rig arrived to me in Tucson with an overheat problem that required me to run heat until I was able to replace everything (back to Mopar) but the core. Jackass had an electric fan that was cutting out and a 205* thermostat. And I thought he was using red coolant until I drained the system and realize it was rust mixed with coolant. A real fuck job.
Thermocure didn’t cause a heater core leak up to now (fingers crossed). I have considered if thermocure might also eat our head gaskets…I assume they will if they are corroded on the water jacket side, but I don’t know how much surface area there is to know if this should be a concern or non-issue.
My Jeeps not with me in NYC btw, I’m just here for training until May. I know what u mean about ambient temps being higher in the south. Engine temps held up well crawling in the rocks through two southern AZ summers.
My worry is not how to heat up, but rather how to cool the rig with AC running is slow motion.
My strategic plan is to create a mixed cooling system, in which a factory cooling system with mechanical fan is augmented by a small auxilary radiator that I will install in the same area where I have installed the Derale transmission cooler.
I took a heater core from YJ, 6 inch fan, couple of metal pieces and working to get it installed in the back. I will install a switch on the fan that activates when the temperature of the coolant reaches 210F. I will use the heater core line for this, basically the heater core line will go through the back of the rig for the cooling.
My worry wasn’t about heating the interior, it was for using the heat with the fan on high to cool the engine.