I know this thread is old, but figured this may help you and other people out in the future. I managed to find a way to retain the factory locker switch to independently control front and rear lockers, while maintaining illumination and the indicator light.
I managed to do this by using a fried factory Rubicon locker switch. Firstly, I cut every trace that connected to the terminal pins on the circuit board ran jumper wires from both sides of both momentary push button switches to individual pins (total of four pins for two switches). Replaced the factory incandescent bulb and LED on the board to 12 V LEDs.(after finding out the factory were only rated for 3 V after frying them). Connected both ground terminals of the LEDs together to a single pin, then connected each positive leg from the LEDs to the remaining two pins. All of the seven pins were used.
I then wired up two latching relays (for latching a momentary push button switch to work as a throw switch) one for front locker one for rear locker. Connected the positive terminal powering the relay from a switched power source, jumped the positive pcb terminal up to the common relay terminal. connected the normally open terminal to the positive on the solenoid valve and connected to the positive of the indicator LED with an in-line diode. I then connected the ground for the PCB to ground and to the ground pin on the switch. Then connected in the included connector with the latching relay to the two pins that control the bottom switch, then plug it into the remote terminal on the latching relay. Repeat this for the second latching relay to also control the front locker independently.
******* a diode must be used before connecting both positives to the indicator LED to maintain the indicator light for both front and rear independently and together while also each independently if you don’t use a diode for both legs, then once you activate the first latching relay it will can connect power to the normally close side of the opposite relay.
I am currently designing my own PCB to the same dimensions as the factory PCB but include the pin out necessary to run independent lockers in a factory switch housing without having the solder a bunch of jumper wires and cutting a bunch of traces to make it work. If there is enough interest, I may make multiples and post them up on my eBay.
I hope y’all enjoyed the write up. It was a long project with a lot of thinking and research involved to make it work.
I managed to do this by using a fried factory Rubicon locker switch. Firstly, I cut every trace that connected to the terminal pins on the circuit board ran jumper wires from both sides of both momentary push button switches to individual pins (total of four pins for two switches). Replaced the factory incandescent bulb and LED on the board to 12 V LEDs.(after finding out the factory were only rated for 3 V after frying them). Connected both ground terminals of the LEDs together to a single pin, then connected each positive leg from the LEDs to the remaining two pins. All of the seven pins were used.
I then wired up two latching relays (for latching a momentary push button switch to work as a throw switch) one for front locker one for rear locker. Connected the positive terminal powering the relay from a switched power source, jumped the positive pcb terminal up to the common relay terminal. connected the normally open terminal to the positive on the solenoid valve and connected to the positive of the indicator LED with an in-line diode. I then connected the ground for the PCB to ground and to the ground pin on the switch. Then connected in the included connector with the latching relay to the two pins that control the bottom switch, then plug it into the remote terminal on the latching relay. Repeat this for the second latching relay to also control the front locker independently.
******* a diode must be used before connecting both positives to the indicator LED to maintain the indicator light for both front and rear independently and together while also each independently if you don’t use a diode for both legs, then once you activate the first latching relay it will can connect power to the normally close side of the opposite relay.
I am currently designing my own PCB to the same dimensions as the factory PCB but include the pin out necessary to run independent lockers in a factory switch housing without having the solder a bunch of jumper wires and cutting a bunch of traces to make it work. If there is enough interest, I may make multiples and post them up on my eBay.
I hope y’all enjoyed the write up. It was a long project with a lot of thinking and research involved to make it work.
