Hub removal problems

Steve Rodgers

Steve Rodgers

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
355
Location
Maui, Hawaii, USA
Yikes
I'm changing my hubs and front universals.
The passenger side hub does not want to come out, I've been pounding and soaking, it won't budge.
Tried little steel wedges, no luck so far.
Maybe heat?
Will I damage my diff if I use a wheel puller and push on the axle? That doesn't sound like a good idea to me. Otherwise I may have to cut it off with angle grinder and carbide bits? Ouch
The splines are free on the axle so that's not it.
This is turning out to be a bit of a project. I guess since they've been in there 21 years they don't want to come out.
1997 TJ SE
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCsTJ
There is a trick where you stick a bolt against the inner C and the unit bearing, turn the steering and it pops the unit bearing out.

Someone will post the pic.
 
This project got a lot smoother after this trick. Old u joints came out a bit stiff, one was missing all bearings. New ones went in easily. I’ll finish tr right side up and do the other side, thank you for the help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
When I mentioned that the new ones went in easily, I meant they went in smoothly, still needing to be pressed to get all the way to the c clip. Smooth but firm. Mine had some rust in the holes, could not leave that in there.
In my case, without the ball joint tool, I don't think any amount of pounding would get them out, they were pretty frozen.
It seems to be smoother now that I have new u joints and hubs, I guess I wasn't aware of the affect the old ones were having.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCsTJ
It's amazing how much nicer a jeep drives with good joints and hubs.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ericict
Having the same issue. The link does not work. Can someone @jjvw give a little more direction please. Tried heat, beating, wedges...nothing has budged.

I removed the space and found the link. What length bolt are you using for this? I need to buy one. I had one bolt break, but don’t think it will matter. I saw one person used a socket and extension. Not really the right tool and hate to screw up a tool. If this works as advertised, this should be a sticky. @Chris
 
Last edited:
Ericict said:
Having the same issue. The link does not work. Can someone @jjvw give a little more direction please. Tried heat, beating, wedges...nothing has budged.

I removed the space and found the link. What length bolt are you using for this? I need to buy one. I had one bolt break, but don’t think it will matter. I saw one person used a socket and extension. Not really the right tool and hate to screw up a tool. If this works as advertised, this should be a sticky. @Chris
Click to expand...

Use a grade 8 bolt

https://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm
 
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: Ericict and jjvw
Ericict said:
Thank you, What simple fix. Heading to the store now to get a bolt
Click to expand...
A 2 inch 7/16 with nut did the trick. Had to get my wife to help. What a great tip. Advice, do not be afraid to crank the wheel hard. It took a lot for mine to pop loose. Sounded like a gun shot when it did!
1590762518522.png


For the future person reading this and the link might be dead...Rotate the axle until the yoke ears on the outboard yoke are parallel to the ground. You might have to adjust it a little as you go from side to side. Do a little movement at a time on each side to keep it coming out even. The tube seal is called an "oil slinger" pn 46849 for an 02 TJ with a DANA 30. The Picture was taken from STU-OFFROAD.

Thank you @mrblaine for sharing this tip so many years ago. What a life saver.
 
Top Bottom
Back