I gained 1.5” of up-travel for $9

Lilnuts

TJ Enthusiast
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Nov 24, 2018
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US Denver, CO
Background: 2005 LJ Rubihara 4" lift, 33's, 1-1/4" body lift, Helwig HD anti sway bar, Rancho 9000 shocks & RE springs

Rancho shocks 24" extended, 15-1/2" collapsed = 8-1/2" of shock travel.
4" lift Rubicon Express LJ springs free length 16-1/2" estimated fully compressed length 4" =12-1/2" of travel.

A while back I installed Rancho 9000 shocks on the Rubihara. After setting my bump stops for the compressed shock length I noticed it was limiting the up travel substantially. If I unbolted the lower shock mount I could raise the axle another 3" without hitting anything.

I got to think what if I raised the upper shock mount? Any raising I could do would give that much more up travel.

I couldn't find much info on this so I decided to do something myself. I'm not a machinist or a welder, it had to be a bolt on mod.

In theory the only force on the upper shock mount (if the bump stops are set correctly and the shock if free to float within the design limits of the flexible mount) is the force of the damping designed into the shock on both compression and rebound. My trac bar acts as a limiter for the fully extension of the shock. Even with both rear wheels off the ground the trac bar won't let the shocks fully extend. In addition to that my Currie bump stops hold the spring on both ends which also won't let the shock fully extend.

I determined I could raise the upper mount close to an 1-1/2" by moving the bar pin through the hole (instead of below) and adding 1" spacers above the shock mount. This will only work if you have a body lift.

I used this in the standard bolt position to act as a stud. I got fully threaded so the factory nut was held tight in place.

Shock bolts.jpg


This picture shows the grade 10.9 60mm length bolt in place. I had to purchase 4- 60mm bolts from advance auto for $9.

raised top shock mount 60mm.jpg

I couldn't make some cool aluminum spacer because I'm not a machinist. But I did have several cheap 18mm sockets rolling around ( The socket fits over the welded nut firmly. I wanted a large base for the spacer and the square 3/8" hole acts as a great centering tool. With the spacers in place the center line of the bolts is the same as stock.

18mm socket.jpg


By doing this my range of shock travel is much more inline with the realistic range of the suspension travel. Because the upper mount is moved completely above the opening in the bracket there is no chance of the shock shaft binding on anything.

So is this totally getto? If my spacer was black anodized aluminum with some cool logo on it would that it less getto?
What is the downside to this mod?
 
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This is awesome. I’ve been wanting to do this as well since my shocks have more down travel than up right now. My main hangup was that I didn’t want to have the shock supported by that welded in nut and I didn’t feel like spending $60 on jks bpe. I will definitely be doing this as well.
 
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Did you have to cut the hole in the crossmember bigger to fit the shock up through it? When I tried I couldn’t get my bar pin all the way up through the hole. Also does the shock body clear ok?
 
Did you have to cut the hole in the crossmember bigger to fit the shock up through it? When I tried I couldn’t get my bar pin all the way up through the hole. Also does the shock body clear ok?
I had to file 1/32" off one side of the bar pin on my Rancho 9000's. The hole is big enough for the body but I set my bump stops so the shock has 1/2" of travel left, so the body doesn't get into the hole at all.
 
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I had to file 1/32" off one side of the bar pin on my Rancho 9000's. The hole is big enough for the body but I set my bump stops so the shock has 1/2" of travel left, so the body doesn't get into the hole at all.
So if you left 1/2” of shock at full bump does that mean the mounts were raised 2” since you said you gained 1.5” of uptravel? Or did you mean the mounts got raised 1.5”?
 
Help a newb understand how this helps. It looks like the shocks travel is still limited by smashing into the mount...no different than before. Now the shock is extended when this happens?
 
Help a newb understand how this helps. It looks like the shocks travel is still limited by smashing into the mount...no different than before. Now the shock is extended when this happens?
Raising shock mount an inch means the tire can travel upwards another inch before the shock bottoms out. Another way of thinking about it is you can remove an inch of bumpstop extension.
 
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Slightly longer shock, slightly less bump stop, slightly better balanced shock travel.

The idea is good. The execution is what it is. :)

Look up outboarded shocks to see the more fleshed out version of the socket mod.
 
So if you left 1/2” of shock at full bump does that mean the mounts were raised 2” since you said you gained 1.5” of uptravel? Or did you mean the mounts got raised 1.5”?
Remember that rear axle and shock travel is not linear due to them being at different angles unlike the front. 1/2” of shock travel is 1” at the axle if the angle of the shock is 30 degree and the axle is straight up and so forth. It’s not 30 degrees but that explains the concept well.
 
Remember that rear axle and shock travel is not linear due to them being at different angles unlike the front. 1/2” of shock travel is 1” at the axle if the angle of the shock is 30 degree and the axle is straight up and so forth. It’s not 30 degrees but that explains the concept well.
I was trying to keep it simple 😂
 
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So if you left 1/2” of shock at full bump does that mean the mounts were raised 2” since you said you gained 1.5” of uptravel? Or did you mean the mounts got raised 1.5”?
I had my bump stops set before to have 1/2" of shock travel left at full stop. I removed an 1-1/2" of bump stop now. My 9000's are about 2-1/4" diameter, if you want 100% full shock compression you will have to remove about 3/8" off of the front edge of the opening.
 
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