IAC needs replacing?

Where did you purchase the new TPS? What kind is it? I have purchased new faulty parts before??? I have 3 TPS from Autozone that all failed. I would consider a Mopar part if possible. The Chinese parts may or may not work and may last only 1/3 as long as the OEM. In the long run, a cheap part ends up costing more.
 
Where did you purchase the new TPS? What kind is it? I have purchased new faulty parts before??? I have 3 TPS from Autozone that all failed. I would consider a Mopar part if possible. The Chinese parts may or may not work and may last only 1/3 as long as the OEM. In the long run, a cheap part ends up costing more.

autozone. seems to be ok.
 
Got her back from mechanic. cracked intake manifold gasket. rides fine now... 650$ later. I tried watching videos to do it myself. aint now way I can do that . too much of a newbie. some day
 
my 2001 4.0 idles at like 500rpm when warm, if it idled at 700 warm I personally would be looking at my throttle mechanism to see if something is causing it to be open a hair, but 700 may be normal for you

672rpm is the stock programmed warm idle speed on the 03-06s for certain. I believe it is around the same going back to '99 or '00, but don't know for certain.

I have programmed mine to idle at 800 because the MORE Bombproof mounts transfer quite alot of vibration through the chassis below that.
 
672rpm is the stock programmed warm idle speed on the 03-06s for certain. I believe it is around the same going back to '99 or '00, but don't know for certain.

I have programmed mine to idle at 800 because the MORE Bombproof mounts transfer quite alot of vibration through the chassis below that.

cool, mine could be 660-700, I'm just saying 500 because the tach needle looks like its dead nuts in the middle of 0 and 1000 when at warm idle
 
Stalled and won’t start again. Yo, this is starting to annoy the sh.. out of me

Cranks but no start? In my experience, 5:1 odds its wiring or sensor vs PCM, but both are possible. But also fuel pressure. Check your fuel pressure with the key ON, then see how quickly it drops back down. Should get to 48psi, either after the first key turn or maybe a couple others. It should hold that pressure for a while (minutes for sure).

Check the ASD, see if it's turning off after about 1.8sec. If there is a sensor/wiring issue the ASD will shut down and stop delivering fuel but continuing to allow the crank.
 
fuel pressure problem has been ruled out?

I’ve asked but never answered. Seems like such an easy thing to check and rule out. And even easier would be give it a shot of starting fluid and see if she fires up. That could direct you to keep chasing electrons or fuel
 
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I’ve asked but never answered. Seems like such an easy thing to check and rule out. And even easier would be give it a shot of starting fluid and see if she fires up. That could direct you to keep chasing electrons or fuel

back at the shop. going to mention that. do I mention Cam and Crank sensor too? forgive me gents, Im a newbie at this
 
just talked w the shop
mentioned to check:
Crank position sensor,
Cam sensor,
Fuel pressure,
Auto shutdown,

Gents. Just a pattern Im seeing. so far after replacing TPS, cleaning IAC and throttle body, then to the shop for replacing worn vac hose next to evap canister and finally a replacing of the intake manifold gasket, she has the same sort of pattern. she starts fine, drive strong. after 30mins to an hour of street driving all of a sudden idle is rough, then she’ll stall. will crank but wont turn over. Ill let her sit for a bit, (anywhere between 20mins to a couple of hours) then she’ll start and drive ok. Then after maybe 5-10 mins, rough idle and stalling again. What gives? sorry gents, im all over the place, working and kids to sheer and football leaves me with little time to get back to you all. Thanks again for the advice. Truly grateful
 
Well for starters it sounds like your shop is just throwing parts at it without getting you any closer to a root cause. Everything they replace results in the same outcome....it might be time for a different strategy. Or a different shop.
 
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it might be time for a different strategy. Or a different shop.

Or listen to the three pages of diagnostic strategies aforementioned.

And yes, mechanics throw parts at problems. And then charge you for it. And charge you extra when you tell them some ass hats on a forum suggested you try something.

-Mac
 
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