I'm at an impasse with my build direction

csaxj3

csaxj3

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2021
Messages
295
Location
TN
So a year later into the LJ project I've made some progress on what I considered my "build sheet". The few times it's been out on dirt it has done extremely well - notably the 3 day Red Clay Rally this past fall.

At the end of the day I'd wager the Rally will be the hardest this is pushed on an annual basis. Aside from state forest OHV trails in the southeast and occasional trip to Windrock its mostly a fart around fun vehicle.

Any decent riding is a minimum 1.5 hours from my house which would be interstate travel.

So where is the impasse? Do I invest into all that is needed for 35's or keep rocking a 33? Ideally I'd like a 285/75/17 (34") but don't really think 17's would look well on a LJ - maybe they would.

Current setup:
04 LJ
42rle
Dana 30/44
5.13's
ARB's
Currie steering
Savvy 4"
SYE/DS
33x10.5's

IMG-8928.jpg


Current set plans include:
- cage for the inside, local shop is building this summer
- RCV axles for the Dana 30
- big brake kit 15" if I stick with 15's and 16" super kit if I go to a larger wheel.

So this is where I get stuck - do I add a Savvy BL, MML, and savvy tcase cable and go to 35's.......or do I enjoy my sweet peppy power with 33's (or 34's) and keep on having fun with where it's at.

Thoughts:
- not a fan of body lifts, I know they are fine but just don't like em - call be stubborn
- 35's will kill what power I got back from going to the 5.13's.
- Don't really want to do a proper hi-line fender conversion as I love the factory bush truck look I've set out to build.
- 35's on 5.13's with 42rle probably sucks on the interstate - so drives to and from trails would suck.

Where I diffed out following the big rigs at the Rally also diffed out a few TJ's on 35's. We all had to pull line in the same spots, so trying to justify from a performance standpoint.

The other option would be looking at 16" or 17" wheel options to allow for the 16" big brake kit, it seems to be the way to go and swapping to a 255/85/16 or a 285/75/17 MT which keeps me in the 33.5-34" range.

I bought this wanting to build a very capable trail truck to run on 33-34's, I knew it would be much easier to go with a JK if 35-37's was the goal.

So do I go to 35's and all that's needed or re-enforce components (brakes / axles) and keep on rocking the 33-34" range?

I'm 50/50 depending on the day and want to set things in motion here this week or next
 
The great thing about a good 33" build is it's pretty close to a 35" build...since you already went with a 4" lift, the gearing is really the only thing you might not want to keep for 35s. It doesn't sound like you need 35s for the wheeling you do right now, so I would stick with the 33" build which leaves you plenty of room to change course. Once you've upgraded your axles, brakes, and steering, you're only a body lift away from running 35's. Easy peasy.
 
A quick Lougle search says you are running about 2,350 RPM's at 65mph. That's not bad. Going to true 35's would put you around 2200RPM. Not ideal....but could be way worse.

If this were you're every day highway commuter I'd advise against 35's as you might start to lug a bit going up hills. But if you just hop on the highway once in a while to go wheeling it might not be bad.

I guess another question is....are you wanting to go with 35's because the 33's won't get you where you want to go? Are you getting completely hung up on stuff or just scraping the diff alot? Some good differential armor can fix that.

35's are just going to buy you an inch of clearance. Will one inch make all the difference? (thats what she said).
 
Yoda said:
A quick Lougle search says you are running about 2,350 RPM's at 65mph. That's not bad. Going to true 35's would put you around 2200RPM. Not ideal....but could be way worse.

If this were you're every day highway commuter I'd advise against 35's as you might start to lug a bit going up hills. But if you just hop on the highway once in a while to go wheeling it might not be bad.

I guess another question is....are you wanting to go with 35's because the 33's won't get you where you want to go? Are you getting completely hung up on stuff or just scraping the diff alot? Some good differential armor can fix that.

35's are just going to buy you an inch of clearance. Will one inch make all the difference? (thats what she said).
Click to expand...

realistically no, IMO.

I'd love a nth degree diff skid for the rear (unobtanium) and need to see what front diff covers work with the currie steering setup.

As far a the hangups go, it's mostly due to the fact we're chasing a sea of JK's, 80/100 series LC's on 35 - 40's, so the ruts on several of the hillclimbs get deep. I can think of a few instances where I diffed out on the front (winch tug maybe 10" and we were off) where 35's might of made a difference but there were several times we all pulled line.

Lot's of this making those ruts a bit deeper....
IMG-0289.jpg


That said if it was not a time-distance rally I'd wager taking the time for more cautious line choices would of helped in a few of the stucks. full disclosure I missed bypasses a few times and went right into the tank traps :rolleyes:.

The brake upgrade is probably the most "needed" thing I can think of from the rally, we finished 23 of 50 teams and started 39th, so it did better than a lot of other built up vehicles. The RCV upgrade is for piece of mind after seeing axle component failure on another LJ there with 35's. I'd rather be able to abuse a Dana 30 on 33/34's than hope I get away with it on 35's.
 
mrblaine said:
If by not bad you means sucks ass, then you would be correct.
Click to expand...
If he can't wheel where he wants and 35's will get him through the trail....sure, sucking ass a couple times a year might be worth it just to get to the trail.

Otherwise you have two choices:
- Winch out and live with 33's
- Regear the Dana 44/Dana 30 again and buy 35's

Drop it into 3rd on the hills on the highway for the couple times a year and go have fun. Regear when you have cash to burn and its time to upgrade the front axle from a Dana 30 to something better.
 
You say that you think your gearing is good for 34’s . The difference in 34’s and 35’s on your Jeep is about 75rpms at 70 mph . I wouldn’t expect that little difference is going to “cause the drive to and from the trail to suck .”
 
Tough decision... my vote is to keep it as is, and revisit this decision next year.

On one hand.. there is serious value in being content with a good build. Enjoy it as is... especially if it is working as intended.

On the other hand... the lj looks best on 35's (imo) ... and if you are racing, it may improve your competitiveness.

BUT...

How much more are you willing to spend tho?
Going to 35's will be a lot more work than you think, especially if your competitvely racing... plus the vehicle is gonna work harder with the heavier tires and lift changes... meaning more maintenance and degradation.
 
JDM said:
You say that you think your gearing is good for 34’s . The difference in 34’s and 35’s on your Jeep is about 75rpms at 70 mph . I wouldn’t expect that little difference is going to “cause the drive to and from the trail to suck .”
Click to expand...

The unsprung weight is significant by 15-20lb per tire
 
Sancho said:
Tough decision... my vote is to keep it as is, and revisit this decision next year.

On one hand.. there is serious value in being content with a good build. Enjoy it as is... especially if it is working as intended.

On the other hand... the lj looks best on 35's (imo) ... and if you are racing, it may improve your competitiveness.

BUT...

How much more are you willing to spend tho?
Going to 35's will be a lot more work than you think, especially if your competitvely racing... plus the vehicle is gonna work harder with the heavier tires and lift changes... meaning more maintenance and degradation.
Click to expand...

It's mostly east coast Appalachian trails we are on so at best we're cruising at 15-20mph, nothing fast. Majority of the track is actually the Daniel Boone Backcoutry Byway, navigation and meeting the "par time" for the stage/course is far more important than speed.

Lots of this:

IMG-0300.jpg


IMG-0302.jpg


and some of this sprinkled throughout


I have no issue to pulling line if it keeps me going forward.

ETA: budget is $5-8k
 
  • Like
Reactions: LONGJP2
taylormade73 said:
If he is sticking with the 30 up front, he is stuck with 5.13 so there are no regearing options.
Click to expand...

correct.

If I'd go the distance to swap axles, then that's pandora's box and might as well go whole hog.

Not looking to jump off the cliff yet.
 
Update: 35's and larger will go towards the Toyota money pit.

RCV's on order with my shop and put in an order with Mr. Blaine for the 15" kit just now. I do like my 33x10.5's and decided a D or E load could be overkill and to stick with C loads.
 
Top Bottom
Back