Inside-Out Build—2006 LJ

Would have been nice if the UCF t case skid came already drilled to bolt up to the UCF engine skid. But it's installed. Not only could it have cut install time in half by not having to screw around figuring out the right/best location, but I could talk a lot, very sarcastically, about how much I enjoy drilling bolt sized holes through steel, straight up, with hot chips falling all over my forearms.

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Woke up at 4am with a constant, dull ache in my right arm that made it impossible to go back to sleep. Thinking the drilling upward, awkwardly positioned on my side, irritated something in either my elbow or my shoulder. Yay.

Getting older is no joke.
 
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Would have been nice if the UCF t case skid came already drilled to bolt up to the UCF engine skid. But it's installed. Not only could it have cut install time in half by not having to screw around figuring out the right/best location, but I could talk a lot, very sarcastically, about how much I enjoy drilling bolt sized holes through steel, straight up, with hot chips falling all over my forearms.

View attachment 302006
Is that a CAD axle?
 
Is that a CAD axle?

it is. When I was looking for an HP30, people in the Colorado Springs area wanted $400 for a non-CAD when I could find one at all, but there were piles of CAD ones in my area for practically free. Bonus is it was easy to install Johnny Joints in the housing without having to weld up a new passenger side bracket. The passenger side axle seal ended up being trickier to find than I'd expected but I found it. The trick is that they used at least 2, maybe 3 different tube thicknesses that vary by about 0.008", which is enough to make a seal not fit. I wrote about the details in the build thread for my green TJ, which is what I originally built this axle for.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/build-and-un-build-thread—gump.30588/#post-493324
 
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it is. When I was looking for an HP30, people in the Colorado Springs area wanted $400 for a non-CAD when I could find one at all, but there were piles of CAD ones in my area for practically free.

I really undersold it with this statement.

I ended up finding mine at a Jeep parts recycler in Colorado Springs called FN Jeep. They literally had piles of axles. The 25 or so front axles that were in the best shape were laid out in rows. There were about 6 CAD HP30s, ONE non-CAD, and it was from a YJ so it had leaf spring mounts. The rest were LP 30s.
 
I really undersold it with this statement.

I ended up finding mine at a Jeep parts recycler in Colorado Springs called FN Jeep. They literally had piles of axles. The 25 or so front axles that were in the best shape were laid out in rows. There were about 6 CAD HP30s, ONE non-CAD, and it was from a YJ so it had leaf spring mounts. The rest were LP 30s.
That's surprising to me - I figured with all the Xj's running around up there that there would be a larger pool of them in the local yards. I have no issues finding HP30's when I was in Phoenix and XJ's are way less popular there than they are in colder states.
 
That's surprising to me - I figured with all the Xj's running around up there that there would be a larger pool of them in the local yards. I have no issues finding HP30's when I was in Phoenix and XJ's are way less popular there than they are in colder states.

It surprised me, too. There were plenty with wrecked front ends. I didn't want to risk ending up with a bent one. I figured maybe XJ drivers are so prone to jumping their rigs that the ones still running were using up the supply. 🤣
 
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first snow outing for this thing in anything close to it's current incarnation. In typical Oklahoma fashion, we got a layer of freezing rain first to build a frictionless plane as the foundation for snow, so though the snow was only a couple inches, surfaces with no snow were still slick, and surfaces with snow were packed.

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Two observations:
1. Holy crap these tires BLOW in the snow compared to KO2s. It's been almost a decade since I drove mud tires in the snow (which were KM2s) but I still didn't think those were THAT much worse...and the Coopers are M+S rated while I'm fairly certain the KM2's were not. At any rate, I needed much longer stopping distances and comparably long starting distances. At one 4 lane intersection I was the front car stopped and the light had turned red again before I was across.

2. The common assertion that you should never ever use 4WD in the snow with an automatic locker in the front seems waay overblown. I waited to test it until I got to the nearly-empty Lowe's parking lot and then used it to get back home and it did just fine...never tried to suck me down into the ditch in spite of noticeable road crown. I did notice some steering feedback that I wasn't accustomed to, including resistance to turning and some unpredictable pulls to one side or the other but overall it was fine as long as I was paying attention.

Got 25 days left on those Colorado plates :ROFLMAO:
 
getting some practice in with my newly upgraded welder and I'm feeling confident, so I just ordered a plate rear bumper from Barnes and a pair of mini-skids for my HP30 front lower control arm mounts. My plans for the bumper will basically follow this thread:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/custom-high-clearance-bumpers.48723/#post-840953
though I intend to add a lip to wrap under the rear crossmember to prevent peeling due to my LJ overhang. I may or may not do the hitch mount. I used a hitch carrier with my TJ but haven't had to use it since I got the LJ, so I'm debating having the hitch in the bumper vs just mounting my receiver back on in the rare occasions I need it. If I do install it, I may mount it semi-flush with the bumper, so the pin goes in behind (in front of?) the crossmember...since I have 5" extra space due to being an LJ.
 
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The Barnes B is now an S (my last initial) 🤣

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I thought I'd smooth out the edges on the shackle tabs to use soft shackles but once I started and saw how slow it was going with a grinding stone in a cordless drill I realized I have no idea what radius I actually need to go for. I'm also realizing my tool setup is not nearly as filled out in the fabrication arena as it is in general automotive work. Maybe this is enough, or maybe I need a die grinder?

And yes, I know I need to radius the outer edge too, but I know a grinding wheel or a flap disc will make quick work of that.

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I took a variation on some advice from that thread and got a set of those double cut burr tools, but for my dremel instead of a full sized die grinder. I'm much happier with the radius I have now, and it didn't take a year.

Feels pretty round to my finger and looking in 3D it looks OK, but dang this is hard to capture in a photo.

PXL_20220222_023848026.jpg
 
I took a variation on some advice from that thread and got a set of those double cut burr tools, but for my dremel instead of a full sized die grinder. I'm much happier with the radius I have now, and it didn't take a year.

Feels pretty round to my finger and looking in 3D it looks OK, but dang this is hard to capture in a photo.

View attachment 311272
I suggest a Festool router with a 1/4", bearing guided roundover bit.

;)


(Sorry, in the middle of a woodworking project at the moment and got confused for a second..)
 
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I suggest a Festool router with a 1/4", bearing guided roundover bit.

;)


(Sorry, in the middle of a woodworking project at the moment and got confused for a second..)
Haha. I only have any idea what you're saying because I spent about 1 minute looking into roundover bits as a solution to this problem, before deciding it was an overkill and overly expensive solution. 🤣
 
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Here's the driver side all tacked up.

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Turns out I'd gotten a little aggressive with how much I trimmed off the top and bottom plates which left me with some gap to fill. I tried filling it a couple different ways, including laying a bead on the edge of each plate to fill up some of the gap before doing a final pass, but it seemed to work just as well doing a cursive e, as long as I moved quickly enough not to blow through.

This was also my first run at using a new wire, since I switched from the Chicago Electric .030 to Lincoln Innershield 0.035 since I figured I was going to need to push some wire for this 3/16s. My first few welds were at the recommended wire speed of 9.5 on the knob, but it seemed to be a little fast so I turned it down to about 8.5 and it started running better. Either way, it honestly seems to spatter more with the Lincoln wire than the cheap wire that came with the welder, which surprised me, but doesn't really matter since I was going to hit the welds with a flap disc anyway.

out of 3 butt welds, I did 2 with a bevel on both sides and 1 with a bevel just on one side. The single bevel was easier to fill with the straight-line (no cursive e) technique. I had to do second passes on the double bevels to completely fill it, so when I do the passenger side I'll move slower and try to fill it up on the first pass.

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Since I had so many multiple passes, my grinding work ended up being kinda ridiculous. I had it looking pretty smooth and then had to go back to fill in some low spots, and then the second round was just ok. I was also using a 40 grit flap disc which was cutting faster than I wanted, so I've since gone and bought 60 and 80 to try out. I'll go back and try to smooth this one out some more, and then i'll probably pick up some high built primer before I paint it...and changing my paint plans from satin to semi-flat :ROFLMAO:

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