Inside-Out Build—2006 LJ
- Thread starter freedom_in_4low
- Start date
I haven't put them by side yet, but it looks good so far. I just got done spraying my tub side lower hinges because I destroyed the paint while bashing out some worn out hinge pin bushings...so I need to give them 24 hours or so before I put the new bushings in and mount the doors, but I can probably pull the masking in a couple hours and see how the hinges came out.
I'm happy with the color match.
The surface finish could use some work (note the sharpness of my leg and foot in the reflection from the tub vs the door), so I guess I'll be researching how to buff orange peel out of clear coat. Definitely not an emergency though, more of a 5 foot observation.
Gonna give it another 12 hours or so to cure (clear says it's ready for polishing after 24 hours) and then I'll put the handles, lock cylinders, and door panels on and transfer my mirrors over from the full doors.
The surface finish could use some work (note the sharpness of my leg and foot in the reflection from the tub vs the door), so I guess I'll be researching how to buff orange peel out of clear coat. Definitely not an emergency though, more of a 5 foot observation.
Gonna give it another 12 hours or so to cure (clear says it's ready for polishing after 24 hours) and then I'll put the handles, lock cylinders, and door panels on and transfer my mirrors over from the full doors.
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The surface finish was bothering me so I took a stab at wet sanding, buffing and polishing. I probably spent a lot more time, and cutting compound, than I could have because I've never done this before and I was afraid of burning through, so I was being super cautious and wiping it after every 2 passes to see if it was good enough.
I was using a harbor freight rotary buffer with a wool pad and wizard mystic cut compound, as recommended by my local auto paint guy (the pad and compound, not the buffer). I'm not sure about the polisher, it's variable speed with a dial but it also seemed to change speed unpredictably based on how much pressure I put on the trigger and how much resistance it felt. I can't imagine that's normal so I might invest in a quality tool if I do this again.
This was after maybe 4 passes? I thought it was good until I tried to get a pic of the reflection and it came out like this.
So I used what was left of the tiny bottle of cutting compound I had and got a other 4 passes or so on, and I topped it off with some meguiars polish on a 3m foam pad and then some quick detailer.
Here's where I ended up, which is definitely not show car perfect but it matches the rest of the tub so I'm happy.
And for comparison this is what I started with, and frankly it was the best spot between both doors
I was using a harbor freight rotary buffer with a wool pad and wizard mystic cut compound, as recommended by my local auto paint guy (the pad and compound, not the buffer). I'm not sure about the polisher, it's variable speed with a dial but it also seemed to change speed unpredictably based on how much pressure I put on the trigger and how much resistance it felt. I can't imagine that's normal so I might invest in a quality tool if I do this again.
This was after maybe 4 passes? I thought it was good until I tried to get a pic of the reflection and it came out like this.
So I used what was left of the tiny bottle of cutting compound I had and got a other 4 passes or so on, and I topped it off with some meguiars polish on a 3m foam pad and then some quick detailer.
Here's where I ended up, which is definitely not show car perfect but it matches the rest of the tub so I'm happy.
And for comparison this is what I started with, and frankly it was the best spot between both doors
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I think Jeep mods are on hold for the last couple months of pushing to get into the new house. Not sure what the budget is going to allow for either since we chose 2022 to build a house and our expected payment has grown by 50%, and the tribal scholarship my wife was counting on for school fell through. I recognize how incredibly fortunate I am to have the opportunity to put my wife through college at 40 while also building a great house on a realistic dream property so I can't complain, but the Jeep may get to take some time off with the tinkering and I might actually get to wheel it some more.
I do still have a few items on the list before I consider the build complete. All but the first item are relatively low cost items.
1. spin free hub kit to take care of my pulsing highway vibes
2. Probably gonna do a DIY gas tank skid raise when I drop the tank to replace the sending unit and fix the overflow issue, because might as well
3. the PS pump is whiny, so when I replace that I'll probably finally install the PS cooler I've had in the parts bin since 2018
4. I'd like a gentex mirror with homelink so I can quit locking my garage door remote in my center console and forgetting to unlock it until I'm at my driveway
5. I'd like to improve the ride from the Ranchos but I don't know what bolt-on option would be an improvement
6. got some mini skids for the front LCAs to install, and if I'm welding on and repainting the axle it might be a good time to do the sway bar link relocation to prepare for a tie rod flip.
I do still have a few items on the list before I consider the build complete. All but the first item are relatively low cost items.
1. spin free hub kit to take care of my pulsing highway vibes
2. Probably gonna do a DIY gas tank skid raise when I drop the tank to replace the sending unit and fix the overflow issue, because might as well
3. the PS pump is whiny, so when I replace that I'll probably finally install the PS cooler I've had in the parts bin since 2018
4. I'd like a gentex mirror with homelink so I can quit locking my garage door remote in my center console and forgetting to unlock it until I'm at my driveway
5. I'd like to improve the ride from the Ranchos but I don't know what bolt-on option would be an improvement
6. got some mini skids for the front LCAs to install, and if I'm welding on and repainting the axle it might be a good time to do the sway bar link relocation to prepare for a tie rod flip.
I've posted here and there about hub kits and bolt patterns lately because I'm on the fence with which way to go. What follows is going to read like a stream of consciousness or the scratchpad of a lunatic.
Bolt pattern:
-The 4.5 allows me to use my current wheels, but if I ever go to 17's and want to maintain a similar scrub radius and narrower stance, the added track width locks me into wheels with >5" backspacing which is pretty limiting.
-The 5.5 forces me into new wheels today, but can maintain a similar stance and scrub radius down to 4" backspacing. The options are quite a bit more plentiful in the wheel styles that I like.
Features/appearance:
-I don't care to pose like I'm hardcore enough to have beadlocks, but the rocks have done a number on the rims of my Ultra's, and if I'm gonna have rock rash, I think rock rash looks a lot better on a ring. So if I was to buy wheels today, I'd shop for something with a simulated beadlock ring.
-I've done the "murdered-out" black wheel thing for 15 years and I'm over it, so I'd prefer either machined or bronze.
The factory wheels that come on the Rubicon 392 look pretty awesome, my understanding is the ring is removable and can actually be converted to a real beadlock. The backspacing would work with a 5x4.5 hub kit and spacers, but HOLY HELL they're expensive and I don't need to pay $500/wheel for a real beadlock just to get a rock ring.
Fuel makes several good looking options but basically nothing in 5x5.5 or 5x4.5 so they're pretty much out entirely. Most of Method's 5x5.5 options are in 4.75" BS, which creates a problem of being at 3.75" minimum effective by the time it gets a spacer deep enough to bury lug nuts.
Vision has a few, like this...but for whatever reason they save bronze for 6- and 8 lug, and wouldn't you know it, the JK/JL 5x5....only black and gray centers are available in TJ and CJ. I could probably live with gray more than black, but still not my preference. Their 5x4.5 options, like Method, ends up choosing between a wider stance or lost turn radius.
Ojos
Manx 2
I like this one, but again, my color choices (bronze or machined) isn't available in 5x5.5 or 5x4.5, only black center with machined or black ring.
Manx
This one is available in bronze...but has a lip vulnerable to rocks just like my current wheels, only worse because my current wheels are machined so the gouges don't stand out in color as much as they would against paint.
Flow
Raceline has a few that would work with the CJ pattern
937, 935 Defender, and 928M Monster Streetlock
and a couple models that have options that would work for either CJ or TJ
Defender, Boost
Here's the notes I've managed to put together so far.
The 4.5 hub kit pretty much nails me into sticking with 15s forever, or Raceline wheels, which run about $100 more per wheel than Vision, eating up any savings I might have had between the WU-07 and WU-08 hub kits.
The 5.5 kit feels like the most "future proof" option, but if I had a gun to my head and had to do this today, I'd probably go with the 5x4.5 hub kit, so I could roll with my current wheels until I wear these tires out, and hope that by the time that happens, Raceline was still manufacturing what few options remain or the market loses interest in the Rubi 392 takeoffs.
Bolt pattern:
-The 4.5 allows me to use my current wheels, but if I ever go to 17's and want to maintain a similar scrub radius and narrower stance, the added track width locks me into wheels with >5" backspacing which is pretty limiting.
-The 5.5 forces me into new wheels today, but can maintain a similar stance and scrub radius down to 4" backspacing. The options are quite a bit more plentiful in the wheel styles that I like.
Features/appearance:
-I don't care to pose like I'm hardcore enough to have beadlocks, but the rocks have done a number on the rims of my Ultra's, and if I'm gonna have rock rash, I think rock rash looks a lot better on a ring. So if I was to buy wheels today, I'd shop for something with a simulated beadlock ring.
-I've done the "murdered-out" black wheel thing for 15 years and I'm over it, so I'd prefer either machined or bronze.
The factory wheels that come on the Rubicon 392 look pretty awesome, my understanding is the ring is removable and can actually be converted to a real beadlock. The backspacing would work with a 5x4.5 hub kit and spacers, but HOLY HELL they're expensive and I don't need to pay $500/wheel for a real beadlock just to get a rock ring.
Fuel makes several good looking options but basically nothing in 5x5.5 or 5x4.5 so they're pretty much out entirely. Most of Method's 5x5.5 options are in 4.75" BS, which creates a problem of being at 3.75" minimum effective by the time it gets a spacer deep enough to bury lug nuts.
Vision has a few, like this...but for whatever reason they save bronze for 6- and 8 lug, and wouldn't you know it, the JK/JL 5x5....only black and gray centers are available in TJ and CJ. I could probably live with gray more than black, but still not my preference. Their 5x4.5 options, like Method, ends up choosing between a wider stance or lost turn radius.
Ojos
Manx 2
I like this one, but again, my color choices (bronze or machined) isn't available in 5x5.5 or 5x4.5, only black center with machined or black ring.
Manx
This one is available in bronze...but has a lip vulnerable to rocks just like my current wheels, only worse because my current wheels are machined so the gouges don't stand out in color as much as they would against paint.
Flow
Raceline has a few that would work with the CJ pattern
937, 935 Defender, and 928M Monster Streetlock
and a couple models that have options that would work for either CJ or TJ
Defender, Boost
Here's the notes I've managed to put together so far.
The 4.5 hub kit pretty much nails me into sticking with 15s forever, or Raceline wheels, which run about $100 more per wheel than Vision, eating up any savings I might have had between the WU-07 and WU-08 hub kits.
The 5.5 kit feels like the most "future proof" option, but if I had a gun to my head and had to do this today, I'd probably go with the 5x4.5 hub kit, so I could roll with my current wheels until I wear these tires out, and hope that by the time that happens, Raceline was still manufacturing what few options remain or the market loses interest in the Rubi 392 takeoffs.
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Im a sucker for KMC styling. There GRS is a simulated Mesa. I agree, a simulated beadlock has its worth when it comes to rock rash.
https://www.kmcwheels.com/kmc-grs
https://www.kmcwheels.com/kmc-grs
Couple things to consider, the hub kit will post the wheel out about 1” on the 5x4.5. I don not know how much wider the 5x 5.5 kit is. I was looking at doing this also and from what I saw 17” tires are about $100 more than 15’s
Yeah that's the reason for all this. The 5.5 kit doesn't add any width from what I've been able to find. If the 4.5 kit maintained the original WMS width, this would be easy.
I'm in no rush to go to 17s, but I figure over time it's probably inevitable as 15s get discontinued so I don't want to put myself into a situation where I can't find tires to fit my 15s and can't find wheels with proper dimensions to accommodate the front axle being 1.5" wide. I don't care so much about the disparity between the two, I just don't want the front sticking out way past the flares and I don't want the rear touching the spring perches.
It looks like you and I are in the same dilemma, factory fenders 35’s and not wanting tires sticking out. I did not know the 5.5 kit is not any wider than stock. My plan is to upgrade to 5:13’s but I want to be ready to do hubs if I need to. I will have to look into the 5.5 kit now, I can see 5k disappearing pretty quick with hubs, rims and tires.
Most of my ROTM winnings went back to Blaine.
I'd rather have the thimble set in an ST fairlead so it doesn't stick out but I don't think that would fit under the 12" light bar I had planned to mount on the tabs above it.
I'd rather have the thimble set in an ST fairlead so it doesn't stick out but I don't think that would fit under the 12" light bar I had planned to mount on the tabs above it.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
You could use some aluminum tube to make some spacers to raise the light bar above it. Not sure if it would look odd being too high though.
I used this for spacers on my rear bumper lights, but you can’t see them.
uxcell 6063 Aluminum Round Tube, 300mm Length 19mm OD 9mm Inner Dia Seamless Aluminum Straight Tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YCHK2C1/?tag=wranglerorg-20
yeah, I could come up with something I'm sure. Might have to see if somebody can give me the height dimension of the ST fairlead so I can get a feel for where it might sit. The whole point of mounting the light there was partly because it would sit in front of the winch and not cover up any more grill real estate and busy-up the front end. I'm good on fogs and long distance spot, but I could use some flood lighting up close, hence the plan for a bar. Maybe I could tuck the light up and back behind the thimble...
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I couldn’t hold a ruler, tape measure and take a pic at the same time, but the top of Blaine’s ST fairlead is 3 inches above the centerline of the mounting bolts. Maybe just under 3 inches.
thanks for the info. Add the 4" length of the thimble and it ends up almost 2" above the top of the winch. The only way that leaves my light plan viable is if I can tuck it behind the thimble.
Battery was dead, and since NAPAs AGM was not THAT much more than a FLA, I finally sprung for one. While it was out I also soaked my terminals I'm vinegar for a few minutes and cleaned them up with a wire brush, before installing and spraying with some battery terminal protector stuff, which gives it that gold color.
The new cleanliness of the battery and terminals makes my auxiliary light hookup look like crap and I have another one to wire up so, as one project begets another, now I'm looking for an auxiliary PDC/fuse box to clean that up. I got a 34/78 battery so I'll probably wire it to the side posts.
Also: being the first time pulling the battery I learned today that mine is one that does NOT have a battery temp sensor. My battery tray could use a respray but its in pretty good shape from a corrosion standpoint. I got the shop vac out and cleaned up all the dirt and pebbles that had accumulated in it but I've got too much on my plate to deal with it right now so I'll have to come back to it.
The new cleanliness of the battery and terminals makes my auxiliary light hookup look like crap and I have another one to wire up so, as one project begets another, now I'm looking for an auxiliary PDC/fuse box to clean that up. I got a 34/78 battery so I'll probably wire it to the side posts.
Also: being the first time pulling the battery I learned today that mine is one that does NOT have a battery temp sensor. My battery tray could use a respray but its in pretty good shape from a corrosion standpoint. I got the shop vac out and cleaned up all the dirt and pebbles that had accumulated in it but I've got too much on my plate to deal with it right now so I'll have to come back to it.
You could just tie the light wire into the PDC terminal.
So this is interesting. I've been running synthetic 10w30 in the AX15 cause it was easy to get and I'd read Aisin had approved it after the ol owners manual GL5 typo. There's always been somewhat of a high whine that I thought might be an input bearing or a 1st gear mainshaft bearing (because I could only really hear it in 2nd and 3rd). It wasn't bad enough to have worried about it if it had been used with 100k miles but I had been a little concerned being a brand new transmission.
Today I changed it out for redline MT90 and it was noticeably quieter, if not gone completely. I won't know for sure until the next time I have it buttoned up with uppers and windows but I should have been able to hear it.
Otherwise, upshifting to 2nd requires ever so slightly more pressure than with the 10w30, but again, nothing I'd have noticed without reason to fixate on all things transmission.
Altogether I'm happy with the change, especially given the stuff is like $75/gal.
Today I changed it out for redline MT90 and it was noticeably quieter, if not gone completely. I won't know for sure until the next time I have it buttoned up with uppers and windows but I should have been able to hear it.
Otherwise, upshifting to 2nd requires ever so slightly more pressure than with the 10w30, but again, nothing I'd have noticed without reason to fixate on all things transmission.
Altogether I'm happy with the change, especially given the stuff is like $75/gal.