Intermittent Stalling Help

It’s back - though finally instead of just stalling out it through me into limp mode driving home from Buena Vista.

I have codes too, again Cam and Crank Position sensors. I’m fairly confident it’s not the sensors themselves and probably the circuit (probably grounding). I do have a grounding wire I still plan to replace that goes to the stud on the passenger side where a lot of small wires also ground. It seems like a possible culprit since the stud is pretty well seized to the grounding wire terminal.
 
Are both CAM and CPS mopar? I would toss your old CPS in again and see what happens. Also check the timing to make sure you were at TDC on the compression side, its possible your off just a hair..
 
Are both CAM and CPS mopar? I would toss your old CPS in again and see what happens. Also check the timing to make sure you were at TDC on the compression side, its possible your off just a hair..

They are both MOPAR and I have swapped old, new, one old and one new.

I think you’re right - seems like timing might just be off enough. Anything else that can cause timing to be off come to mind? I’m wondering maybe the timing chain could be stretched (though doubtful at 58k miles I think).

My other thought is maybe the tone ring on the OPDA is off a little - a few weeks ago I found a small piece of plastic in there from the OPDA swap (I thought my step dad pulled the stopper but looks like I was incorrect). I think I can check that by getting the engine to TDC and pulling the cover off the top of the OPDA and seeing if it’s loose at all and the holes line up.
 
Lunch time so I ran and checked out the orientation - comparing to an old engine bay image. I over rotated back and got codes right away and slowly dialed back. Time will tell if this is relevant or not.
 
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No joy, stalled out pulling into ACE - gave me U0155 (lost communication with instrument panel cluster (IPC) Control module).

Back to the drawing board.
 
Tracing out some wiring suggests that there’s a shared ground or possible short from the stereo unit.

If time allows tomorrow I’ll be taking apart the dash to dig in.
 
I’m guessing this is what it looks like to be robbed, though that is more destructive.

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I’ll redo the radio connections just because. However no visible faults so far. Now I’m into the fuse block behind the glove box.

Here’s the engine block ground I’ll redo tomorrow, all these pieces are fused together other than the stud to the engine (aka both grounding terminals turn with the stud). Hopefully the custombatterycables.com ground strap provides a good ground, this (attaches to the oil dip stick mount) one looks corroded.

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Put an infra red thermometer before and after the cats . You want it about 100 degrees cooler after the cats . If not , they need checked . A hand on the exhaust can tell, you sometimes.

I realize by the posts you may have a ground or similar issue as well.
 
Put an infra red thermometer before and after the cats . You want it about 100 degrees cooler after the cats . If not , they need checked . A hand on the exhaust can tell, you sometimes.

I realize by the posts you may have a ground or similar issue as well.

I don’t know enough about that system, could you expand on how that impacts the rest of the system? I did burn my hand pretty well after the pre cats and before the joined cat trying to check my Crank Position Sensor during a stall off the highway on Sunday
 
I may be out in left field but it seems like you may have clogged converters and a PCM issue......part of it sounds like cats , rest liken a ground related deal.
 
I’ll pick up a thermometer to check the cats, easy thing to rule out.

I’m feeling like out of left field is where I am at with this issue.
 
Infrared thermometers can be had relatively cheap, too. Definitely worth checking.

If all is good there, I would actually pull the entire harness and start tracing your CAM and CPS sensor wiring. Since those are your codes, they could be shorting out within the loom itself, Ive seen a few posts where that has happened. IIRC both require 5V. You could start prodding with a multimeter to make sure that supply is constant.

If your still researching and happen to come across the other forums, pay close attention to posts by Rubi4MyMrs. He is a TJ electrical guru.
 
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I will call this progress, but not tons. After reorienting the OPDA at TDC closer to where the old one was - I am now only getting U0155 codes. Now to figure out how to test the cluster. The FSM has some ideas, but since the issue is intermittent it's hard to say that those tests would show me much - though I will probably still step through them to see.

Unfortunately, it still stalls. Typically I feel the engine stutter, then the gauges are dead, the SKIM light comes on and it beeps at me - then dies entirely.
 
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I will call this progress, but not tons. After reorienting the OPDA at TDC closer to where the old one was - I am now only getting U0155 codes. Now to figure out how to test the cluster. The FSM has some ideas, but since the issue is intermittent it's hard to say that those tests would show me much - though I will probably still step through them to see.
Man I hate that you're having to go through that.
 
You and me both @AndyG - if I wasn't so obsessed with it I'd be thinking about trading it in (and honestly have thought about it a few times). There's just nothing else I'd want.
 
You and me both @AndyG - if I wasn't so obsessed with it I'd be thinking about trading it in (and honestly have thought about it a few times). There's just nothing else I'd want.
I'm exactly the same way.. I have a terrible history of falling in love with my vehicle's even long after they become unfaithful.
 
I even thought about buying another TJ and swapping all the things I like on this one to another one (44s, wheels/tires, lockers, savvy skid, compressor, etc).