Is trimming necessary?

LJDC

LJDC

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2023
Messages
225
Location
D.C.
I have an LJ on 35s with a 4” Savvy/Currie suspension lift and a 1.25” Savvy body lift, Ranchi RS5000x shocks, and 1.5” wheel spacers on factory 15” wheels with 35x12.5R15 KO2s.

I haven’t yet put it on a ramp or taken it offroad since adding the tires and body lift. I do not plan to change out the fenders or flares.

I’m willing to sacrifice a little flex with bumpstops. Am I likely to need to trim the metal inside the fenders? What else should I consider?

I know this isn’t exactly a unique setup. What is a common solution with factory fenders and flares?
 
Last edited:
Wheel offset may be a factor -I have a ditch at my place I like to flex test in - you really have to find out the mechanical parameters-

My set up is the same and has worked well so far-

ACE33519-4505-4BA1-B753-94EA50AA6624.jpeg
 
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ, NashvilleTJ and LJDC
LJDC said:
I have an LJ on 35s with a 4” Savvy/Currie suspension lift and a 1.25” Savvy body lift. I haven’t yet put it on a ramp or taken it offroad since adding the tires and body lift. I do not plan to change out the fenders.

I’m willing to sacrifice a little flex with bumpstops. Am I likely to need to trim the metal inside the fenders? What else should I consider?

I know this isn’t exactly a unique setup. What is a common solution with factory fenders?
Click to expand...

As everyone else said, you should flex it out however you can, to figure out a direct answer.

However, an indirect answer ; since I also have an LJ on similar setup (mine is just on 33's)
I'm going to go out on a limb and say yes some trimming is required for factory fenders, unless you extend bumpstops.

Especially in the rear. Mine is barely folding the edge of the fender at full flex.
I'm not hitting metal, so that is good, but my tires will likely tear the OEM fender flares off at some point, at which point I'll upgrade.

I'd be willing to bet at full flex with 35's , which are even larger than my tires, the factory fenders WILL suffer some scars unless trimmed.
But we can't simply 'know' the answer to your question. It's best to flex it out yourself and see.
 
Last edited:
zachpeakee said:
....

However, an indirect answer ; since I also have an LJ on similar setup (mine is just on 33's)
I'm going to go out on a limb and say yes some trimming is required for factory fenders, unless you extend bumpstops.

Especially in the rear. Mine is barely folding the edge of the fender at full flex.
I'm not hitting metal, so that is good, but my tires will likely tear the OEM fenders off at some point, at which point I'll upgrade.

I'd be willing to bet at full flex with 35's , which are even larger than my tires, the factory fenders WILL suffer some scars unless trimmed.
But we can't simply 'know' the answer to your question. It's best to flex it out yourself and see.
Click to expand...

Flares don't count. They are flexible. Far far more often than not, the traditional recipe for 35s using a 4" spring with a 1.25" body lift will not require clearancing of the wheel openings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LJDC and LONGJP2
jjvw said:
Flares don't count. They are flexible. Far far more often than not, the traditional recipe for 35s using a 4" spring with a 1.25" body lift will not require clearancing of the wheel openings.
Click to expand...

You're correct, and I left somewhat of a 1/2 ass response in that regard.
I should have worded my comment a bit differently.

I was focused on the fact that OP wants to retain factory/OEM fenders, and assumed flares as part of that Factory/OEM gig.
 
zachpeakee said:
You're correct, and I left somewhat of a 1/2 ass response in that regard.
I should have worded my comment a bit differently.

I was focused on the fact that OP wants to retain factory/OEM fenders, and assumed flares as part of that Factory/OEM gig.
Click to expand...

He can keep the factory flares unchanged just the same as the wheel openings can remain unchanged. The flares will move out of the way of the tires and the tires are unlikely to contact sheet metal.

He can confirm this by cycling the axles without springs installed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zachpeakee
zachpeakee said:
You're correct, and I left somewhat of a 1/2 ass response in that regard.
I should have worded my comment a bit differently.

I was focused on the fact that OP wants to retain factory/OEM fenders, and assumed flares as part of that Factory/OEM gig.
Click to expand...

I meant fenders and flares. Sorry.
 
I updated the original post to answer some of the very helpful questions. Thanks!
 
jjvw said:
He can keep the factory flares unchanged just the same as the wheel openings can remain unchanged. The flares will move out of the way of the tires and the tires are unlikely to contact sheet metal.

He can confirm this by cycling the axles without springs installed.
Click to expand...

LJDC said:
I meant fenders and flares. Sorry.
Click to expand...

At which point part of what I stated will stand.
Without proper suspension cycling like @jjvw said WITH SPRINGS OFF , you'll never know whether or not you're going to make contact.

I know for 100% fact, the factory flares WILL get destroyed with your current wheel setup unless bumpstops are adjusted, sacrificing suspension travel in attempts to save the flares.

I have my bumpstops in the rear dialed in so that I do NOT contact fender, but I am actively shitting on the flares.
I'm not willing to lose suspension travel, but I AM willing to shred my flares and upgrade in the future.

Like JJVW said, flares ultimately are irrelevant, as they will just fold out the way.
UNLESS as you stated, you are concerned with keeping the factory flares in good shape.

Again, there's no way to know this without removing your springs, and cycling your suspension upwards to full-tuck, and seeing where contact is made.

It's also worth noting, you will contact differently if you compress the entire axle, versus compressing just one side.
When compressing the axle as an entire assembly, the tires will stay straight up/down.
When compressing only one side, the tires will lean inwards which can cause contact in different areas.
I would recommend testing BOTH ways.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LJDC
zachpeakee said:
At which point part of what I stated will stand.
Without proper suspension cycling like @jjvw said WITH SPRINGS OFF , you'll never know whether or not you're going to make contact.

I know for 100% fact, the factory flares WILL get destroyed with your current wheel setup unless bumpstops are adjusted, sacrificing suspension travel in attempts to save the flares.

I have my bumpstops in the rear dialed in so that I do NOT contact fender, but I am actively shitting on the flares.
I'm not willing to lose suspension travel, but I AM willing to shred my flares and upgrade in the future.

Like JJVW said, flares ultimately are irrelevant, as they will just fold out the way.
UNLESS as you stated, you are concerned with keeping the factory flares in good shape.

Again, there's no way to know this without removing your springs, and cycling your suspension upwards to full-tuck, and seeing where contact is made.

It's also worth noting, you will contact differently if you compress the entire axle, versus compressing just one side.
When compressing the axle as an entire assembly, the tires will stay straight up/down.
When compressing only one side, the tires will lean inwards which can cause contact in different areas.
I would recommend testing BOTH ways.
Click to expand...

The other move that needs to happen while cycling is to turn the steering from lock to lock at all points of the axle travel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LJDC, zachpeakee and NashvilleTJ
For reference, this was my first outing in my 4" TJ at full compression with 33" tires.
My bumpstops were set ONLY with concerns to the factory 'metal' fenders.
Flares are irrelevant to me.

Use your imagination and you'll understand how 35"s would act in this scenario.

1708488783307.png
 
LONGJP2 said:
How much backspacing on that 10" wheel?
Click to expand...

I have 15x10 w/ 4" backspacing.

IF OP's profile picture is accurate, they're on factory 15x8 Ravines w/ 5.5" backspacing + 1.5" Spacer (as stated by OP)
Which would roughly equate to 15x8 w/ 4" backspacing.

So technically my wheels stick out 2" wider than OP's.
Either way, that is not the pressing issue with factory flare clearance as long as bump-stops are set correctly in relevancy to the Fender (NOT the flare)

Clearance issues with factory/oem fender flares are not at the top of the fender, it's more-so an issue along the back edge.
Note in the photo the rear of the fender folding over on itself.

Ultimately this led to a lot of cracking/wear to the fender itself as well as shredding the paint off those rear fenders.
(which is the complete opposite of what it sounds like OP is wanting to happen)

1708504100867.png


Now look at the photo again, and imagine that, with the extra 2" of tire that OP has versus my 33's in the photo.

As it's been said a few times now, flares generally are not an issue as they'll just fold out of the way.
I also feel this entire flare-clearance conversation is pointless.

HOWEVER, OP stated they wanted to retain factory fenders AND flares.
Meaning this is still somewhat meaningful to the conversation, and still needs to be taken into account.


LONGJP2 said:
Plus, I don't see a body lift.
Click to expand...

You're correct.
There is no body lift. I was on 4" springs only.

Just simple math in my head (and I could be mistaken)
OP did mention their body lift, which theoretically would help the issue by creating an extra inch of fender/tire clearance...

Except for the fact that the 'extra space' is occupied by 35" Tires.
The extra fender/tire clearance gained from a 1" body lift kind of cancels itself out when you re-stuff a tire with 1" extra sidewall height back into it.

-
-

Just to note, I am in no way trying to downplay anyone elses opinions/insights.
I'm only tying into the fact that OP specifically stated they wanted to maintain Factory Fenders AND Factory Flares with 35" tires, and that's just not feasible on OP's current setup, without possibly extending bump-stops & losing suspension travel.

But ultimately this is ALL hog-wash until OP cycles suspension properly to see exactly how much suspension travel is already there.
This entire conversation could be meaningless if OP already has long-enough bump-stops in place.
 
Top Bottom
Back