Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Jeep TJ 4.0 turbo tuning and build (basemap for GM 2 bar map sensor)

Here are a few logs for you, i also included a log from the jeep bone stock for reference, to see the heat soak, the stock log was taken on a day that was 6C the logs today at 23C, you can see in the first log why i dont like the factory sensor, it heat soaks bad in traffic, and thats 80% of the driving i do, im going to be buying a standalone gauge eventually that has 2 sensors one for pre turbo and one for after turbo and or intercooler. intake filter was cool to the touch after the pulls today so ide say the intake is working well.

I also turned up the tune today, added 3 degrees in boost and pulled a bit of fuel, this is the final tune for it in this configuration.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pqSEUtGMtC2qCm3HMrbTYbjWMkaDPWcs?usp=sharing

Thanks for the logs.

It looks like your IATs maxed out around 88*f degrees over ambient with the scoop. As expected, that's much lower than what I had with no louver and no scoop. My guess is that your IATs are around 20* to 30* lower using the scoop instead of only having the hood louver.

Your access to 94 octane and having summer temps that max out around 83*f is pretty awesome.

Regarding the stock IAT sensor, I believe the heat soak issue is largely due to the sensor being on the intake manifold, which gets badly heat soaked by the screaming hot exhaust manifold. You can remedy that by tying the stock sensor into the elbow on the charge pipe before the throttle body like Banks did for their 05/06 kits.

My Banks kit was from a 2004, so I didn't have the ability to run my plastic clock-in-style IAT sensor into Bank's charge pipe at the elbow since it was just a tube. I refused to drill the manifold because of the heat-soak issues that I read about. Instead, I drilled a hole in the Banks tube at the elbow (same location as their 05/06 kits) and had someone tig weld in a bung so I could run a 2004 IAT sensor (after correctly guessing that it would work with my connector and 2005 PCM). I don't have heat-soak issues that the 04 and under guys have.

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If you are interested, here is my log from three highway pulls last week @7 psi in very similar ambient temps to your area (80*f). The 01:27 to 01:29 period helps show that I don't have heat soak issues with the stock IAT sensor.

Here's my numbers when driving nice and easy in town after the pulls. The IATs are 24*f over ambient. You will likely beat my IAT numbers if you combine your scoop with a decent water-to-air intercooler setup. :)

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Really enjoyed the right up I have a supercharged 4.0 with 36lb injectors, any chance I can ask you some questions about the map sensor scaling

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Been a while since ive posted, Been busy working on my other toys, did some mods to my bike, exhust, rack, oem yamaha serow tail tidy, filter etc, to get ready for my first camping trip on the bike, and put some coilovers in my daily, the jeep also is now intercooled and on 11 PSI been beating the hell out of it without any issues, my rear drive shaft failed on me this past weeked, the double cardon joint ball failed, unrelated to the power as it just keeps the joints in phase, just seems like it was defective and finally gave up on me, so currently waiting on the new shaft to show up under warrenty.

Heres a few pictures of what ive been up to, the intecooler is behind the winch and i had doubts it would work very well, but it actually works really well i dont have temp sensors on either side, but intake temps are lower in pulls ,and come down much faster after pulls and the inlet of the intecooler is alsmost to hot to touch and the outlet is always cool to touch after doing a hard pull and pulling right over, im pretty happy with it, i also moved the intake closer to the factory location as the box was a pain to work around. installing the FMIC was way more involved then i was hoping on this i had to pull the whole front end off to install it.

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Yeah of course ill see if i can help!

Hey thanks for the reply , I ended taking the tune you shared and modifying it to my setup which was a huge help. I initiated tried doing the tune myself and got hung up on the map scalar multi and found out I didn't have to change it at all and basically adjust the fuel map for my supercharger. I also have a methanol injection so I have to wiggle room but I'll post my tune shortly
 
Hey thanks for the reply , I ended taking the tune you shared and modifying it to my setup which was a huge help. I initiated tried doing the tune myself and got hung up on the map scalar multi and found out I didn't have to change it at all and basically adjust the fuel map for my supercharger. I also have a methanol injection so I have to wiggle room but I'll post my tune shortly
 
Been a while since ive posted, Been busy working on my other toys, did some mods to my bike, exhust, rack, oem yamaha serow tail tidy, filter etc, to get ready for my first camping trip on the bike, and put some coilovers in my daily, the jeep also is now intercooled and on 11 PSI been beating the hell out of it without any issues, my rear drive shaft failed on me this past weeked, the double cardon joint ball failed, unrelated to the power as it just keeps the joints in phase, just seems like it was defective and finally gave up on me, so currently waiting on the new shaft to show up under warrenty.

Heres a few pictures of what ive been up to, the intecooler is behind the winch and i had doubts it would work very well, but it actually works really well i dont have temp sensors on either side, but intake temps are lower in pulls ,and come down much faster after pulls and the inlet of the intecooler is alsmost to hot to touch and the outlet is always cool to touch after doing a hard pull and pulling right over, im pretty happy with it, i also moved the intake closer to the factory location as the box was a pain to work around. installing the FMIC was way more involved then i was hoping on this i had to pull the whole front end off to install it.

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Nice setup! Wish I knew even where to start with my 06. Not afraid to get turbo and fab stuff in, more afraid of getting the tunes done right without blowing something up at 66k engine. So finding your posts, very much appreciate it. Lots info in my research to learn and maybe one day pulling a trigger on turbo.
 
Ok so an update on the jeep had I small mishap lol, the jeep was dead reliable on 10 psi, I beat the shit out of it all year, had it offroad a few time camping, revlimiter in the mud etc, dead nuts reliable, on 10-11PSI..... so I turned up, because that's what I do, lol, so turned up the boost not thinking about extra fuel, the stock pump regulator runs a low pressure I think about 45 psi (you can buy upgraded regulator online that raises it to about 60), my mind was thinking LS terms, that have around 60PSI of pressure, and was thinking i should have plenty of fueling left for 16ish PSI....... so I ran out of fueling on a 16-17 psi run when I first turned it up, got some nasty knock and the engine is a bit hurt now, I'm 99% it's a cracked ringland as it doesn't knock and runs fine when in throttle, just a bit of a mis when at idle, and cranks like an engine with a cylinder down on compression, so likely down compression on one cyl.

so ive turned it back down to the orignal tune about 10 psi, still been driving it around, and still WOT pulls at every single stop sign and light etc, i am blown away at how bullet proof these engines are, it just keeps staying alive, one thing i will say is at 16 PSI it pulls HARD, like lifting a wheel off the ground in a straight line lol.

so after some thinking and pricing out pistons and rods and trying to find aftermarket valves, valve spring etc to build the 4.0, i decided i will be going another route as the bottom end parts are easy to find but top end stuff it hit and miss, and also the 4.0 with a turbo guzzles gas, i can burn a tank of 94 in one day if im having fun.

The current plan is a BEW TDI engine out of a MK4 Jetta, golf etc, you can make really good torque numbers with them and still get 30+MPG in a lifted TJ, based on my research, and paying regular fuel prices instead of 94 prices.

The BEW is what they call a PD engine, basicly it means it has unit injectors, on a bone stock engine with just a stage 1.5 tune (max safest tune on stock turbo) you can make 239WTQ and 130WHP, Stage 4 Big turbo with minor mods they can make 269WTQ and 157WHP, while still getting great MPG. I'm a Deisel tech by trade, so this is right up my alley. you can also do with the PD engine whats called a hardcut, essentially a Diesel 2 step sounding rev limiter setup, makes it sound super agressive when bagning gears.

There a few companies that make an adapter plate that converts the rear of a TDI engine to be the same as the stock 4.0, lets you bolt right up to the stock trans in stock location.

Anyways figured i fill you guys in on what been going on with the jeep, and the plans, next year or 2 i hope to be starting a TDI swap thread, but currently we are saving up for a house, with a garage for me to do more dumb projects in. I currently have another project as well thats taking priority, a Honda ruckus that i did a 150CC GY6 swap, im working on converting to fuel injection from carb setup and adding a tiny turbo and big bore kit, i love wierd shit.

I may buy another TJ in the future just to explore the inline 6 again with a fully built engine, maybe more of a stock look Dana 44 rear sleeper with 20+PSI, but for now i want something reliable and cheap to run, as this is also my camping rig, so i cant get down the trails to go camping on crown land without it.

For now ill be beating on my TJ with the hurt engine, i honestly believe it will last until im ready to do the swap :ROFLMAO:
 
I say stick with the I6, learn from popping it, and do it better next time. Good excuse for a stroker build!

Those Ruckus scooters seem fun. There was a little Ruckus scooter gang always cruising around where we raced in Okinawa. They had them all chopped up and modded like in your pics too. Looked fun.
 
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Ok so an update on the jeep had I small mishap lol, the jeep was dead reliable on 10 psi, I beat the shit out of it all year, had it offroad a few time camping, revlimiter in the mud etc, dead nuts reliable, on 10-11PSI..... so I turned up, because that's what I do, lol, so turned up the boost not thinking about extra fuel, the stock pump regulator runs a low pressure I think about 45 psi (you can buy upgraded regulator online that raises it to about 60), my mind was thinking LS terms, that have around 60PSI of pressure, and was thinking i should have plenty of fueling left for 16ish PSI....... so I ran out of fueling on a 16-17 psi run when I first turned it up, got some nasty knock and the engine is a bit hurt now, I'm 99% it's a cracked ringland as it doesn't knock and runs fine when in throttle, just a bit of a mis when at idle, and cranks like an engine with a cylinder down on compression, so likely down compression on one cyl.

so ive turned it back down to the orignal tune about 10 psi, still been driving it around, and still WOT pulls at every single stop sign and light etc, i am blown away at how bullet proof these engines are, it just keeps staying alive, one thing i will say is at 16 PSI it pulls HARD, like lifting a wheel off the ground in a straight line lol.

so after some thinking and pricing out pistons and rods and trying to find aftermarket valves, valve spring etc to build the 4.0, i decided i will be going another route as the bottom end parts are easy to find but top end stuff it hit and miss, and also the 4.0 with a turbo guzzles gas, i can burn a tank of 94 in one day if im having fun.

The current plan is a BEW TDI engine out of a MK4 Jetta, golf etc, you can make really good torque numbers with them and still get 30+MPG in a lifted TJ, based on my research, and paying regular fuel prices instead of 94 prices.

The BEW is what they call a PD engine, basicly it means it has unit injectors, on a bone stock engine with just a stage 1.5 tune (max safest tune on stock turbo) you can make 239WTQ and 130WHP, Stage 4 Big turbo with minor mods they can make 269WTQ and 157WHP, while still getting great MPG. I'm a Deisel tech by trade, so this is right up my alley. you can also do with the PD engine whats called a hardcut, essentially a Diesel 2 step sounding rev limiter setup, makes it sound super agressive when bagning gears.

There a few companies that make an adapter plate that converts the rear of a TDI engine to be the same as the stock 4.0, lets you bolt right up to the stock trans in stock location.

Anyways figured i fill you guys in on what been going on with the jeep, and the plans, next year or 2 i hope to be starting a TDI swap thread, but currently we are saving up for a house, with a garage for me to do more dumb projects in. I currently have another project as well thats taking priority, a Honda ruckus that i did a 150CC GY6 swap, im working on converting to fuel injection from carb setup and adding a tiny turbo and big bore kit, i love wierd shit.

I may buy another TJ in the future just to explore the inline 6 again with a fully built engine, maybe more of a stock look Dana 44 rear sleeper with 20+PSI, but for now i want something reliable and cheap to run, as this is also my camping rig, so i cant get down the trails to go camping on crown land without it.

For now ill be beating on my TJ with the hurt engine, i honestly believe it will last until im ready to do the swap :ROFLMAO:

Ohh that sucks popping the 4.0 a bit and I'm sure it'll tick till then. Didn't RAG (rusty autoholic guy) on YouTube pit a BEW engine in his over the years as he tested a bunch of other engines as a swap? Should probably check his channel out if you haven't. Of course keep us posted on what you'll do or progress or when the 4.0 really pops. I decided to go with a supercharger and for now staying at 5psi lol. Too afraid to tune it or go any higher then that.
 
You too lol I also did some damage to my engine. I believe I spiked at 12 psi and my piston ring gap did not approve of it. I'm on the fence for a forged 4.6 to boost or a 5.3 swap but it's leaning more toward the 5.3 swap i priced out the a forged 4.6 and internals are $1900 , machining atleast $1500 , reworking the head and everything else puts me well over a 5.3 lm7 swap and than going standalone puts me over 10k

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You too lol I also did some damage to my engine. I believe I spiked at 12 psi and my piston ring gap did not approve of it. I'm on the fence for a forged 4.6 to boost or a 5.3 swap but it's leaning more toward the 5.3 swap i priced out the a forged 4.6 and internals are $1900 , machining atleast $1500 , reworking the head and everything else puts me well over a 5.3 lm7 swap and than going standalone puts me over 10k

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BUT .... lol..... LS 5.3 swap is so common and boring lol. Like everyone does it. I'd probably do stroker and boost it, build a stroker for specific boost to handle.
 
BUT .... lol..... LS 5.3 swap is so common and boring lol. Like everyone does it. I'd probably do stroker and boost it, build a stroker for specific boost to handle.

Show me someone who's one a boosted forged stroker that's reliable and didn't cost over $10k. I'm not doing the swap to show it off I'm doing the swap because I have a heavy foot and want to beat the balls off my jeep and want a reliable 300+hp
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator