Jeep TJ rear wheelbase stretch with existing Rubicon Express long arm kit

Fuel cells (by assumption are not tanks under the rear of the rig) have a range of issues. They are loud, they take up precious space, the filler neck is problematic since they work by gravity mostly so they need slope to get down to the top of the tank.

That puts the filler neck opening for fuel in above the top of the tub rail if you use the typical pump arrangement.
Tank volume is calculated at 231 cubic inches per gallon of fuel. If you use a conventional rectangular cube design assuming you start at the front edge of the cargo step, that creates a 13-15 gallon tank simply due to minimum dimensions.

The pump ring is between 7-8" in diameter so that puts the front to back dimension at about 8". 12" is a reasonable height with some expansion area. Tub width is roughly 36" if you want a snug fit.

At those rough numbers, every extra gallon of fuel moves the rear wall into the cargo area almost 1/2". 19 gallons would move that wall back 2 1/2" roughly for a total of about 10 1/2". That is a lot of cargo area to give up to run a fuel tank not under the back of the rig.

The two big issues are capacity and over the tub rail filler. The filler means that you mount something in a hardtop that you don't remove, unhook the soft top to fill or make a velcro flap. The worst part is you will smell every drop of fuel you spill.

An answer is to make use of space that isn't typically used for cargo and to lower the top of the tank so a filler can be installed in the side of the tub. My answer looks something like this. 18.2 gallons that encroaches 4" into the cargo area and has a tub side mounted filler neck.

View attachment 284491View attachment 284492
does the pump reach the bottom wells floor level? or did you employ pickups in them?
 
The cut out only addresses the problem of the diff needing room to move backwards. What about everything else attached to the axle that also needs to be moved backwards?
In a CJ there is/was plenty of room for a moderate 4 or 5” stretch. That was all that was needed. As I mentioned, any profile can be made to accommodate a TJ’s needs. It’s all math and engineering. It looks like it has already been done on existing tanks by modifying. Why not a full build tank for the stretch? Looks like that aluminum tank was new anyway. For someone willing to buy new, I would think a ready to go option would be easier after the initial R&D
 
In a CJ there is/was plenty of room for a moderate 4 or 5” stretch. That was all that was needed. As I mentioned, any profile can be made to accommodate a TJ’s needs. It’s all math and engineering. It looks like it has already been done on existing tanks by modifying. Why not a full build tank for the stretch? Looks like that aluminum tank was new anyway. For someone willing to buy new, I would think a ready to go option would be easier after the initial R&D
It is far easier to modify existing. But, there just isn't any room behind the axle on a TJ. I have a GR Crawler tank on my TJ-6. I've stared at it way too much trying to find a way for Josh to use something like it but modified for a stretch. Ain't happening.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
In a CJ there is/was plenty of room for a moderate 4 or 5” stretch. That was all that was needed. As I mentioned, any profile can be made to accommodate a TJ’s needs. It’s all math and engineering. It looks like it has already been done on existing tanks by modifying. Why not a full build tank for the stretch? Looks like that aluminum tank was new anyway. For someone willing to buy new, I would think a ready to go option would be easier after the initial R&D
A stretch tank can't address what needs to happen to the suspension. On mine, I already did a ~2" front stretch and I ended up cutting the upper spring seats off the frame to move them too. Doing similar on the rear on a 5-6" stretch would be a hack job without a back half frame kit. But why not use the frame I already have and leave it all attached. Everything is much easier and cleaner without having to figure out how to hang a gas tank in there.
 
Last edited:
Blaine and I discussed turning a Savvy gas tank skid into a stretch tank and reformimg the factory tank to fit. I had the idea to use a heat gun. But it turns out that the plastic tank is multiple layers of different plastics. Heating and successfully reshaping could be easier said than done. Blaine said to just force the tank into the skid.

Though once done, we are still left with all the compromises of a regular stretch tank. The frame arch doesn't move with the axle and I don't like the idea of chopping the springs into it. And the frame side control arm mounts still need to move back.

I never liked the traditional fuel cell options, which meant a stretch wasn't really a consideration until now.
So, you want to stretch the frame to stretch the wheel base. When you do that, you shorten the amount of frame left under the body in which to place a fuel tank behind the axle. So...an interior fuel tank (or cell) becomes the only option? Am I following along properly?

This is a crazy idea...but if you stretch the frame between the axles...is there room for a side saddle tank? There isn't anything running down the driver's side but the fuel and brake lines You've moved the upper CA mount back in the stretch, giving you more length. I don't have the jeep in my driveway right now to make measurements...so I'm kinda talkin out my butthole right now.
 
So, you want to stretch the frame to stretch the wheel base. When you do that, you shorten the amount of frame left under the body in which to place a fuel tank behind the axle. So...an interior fuel tank (or cell) becomes the only option? Am I following along properly?

This is a crazy idea...but if you stretch the frame between the axles...is there room for a side saddle tank? There isn't anything running down the driver's side but the fuel and brake lines You've moved the upper CA mount back in the stretch, giving you more length. I don't have the jeep in my driveway right now to make measurements...so I'm kinda talkin out my butthole right now.
I can barely get a muffler under there with where the control arms are. A small gas tank that fits would be really small.
 
I can barely get a muffler under there with where the control arms are. A small gas tank that fits would be really small.
i just did that dance yesterday, angling the muffler between the drive shaft and upper link.

idk, where Blaine's tank sits is above the E brake bracket if 1 didn't mind breaking that hard corner from bed to rear floor and rebuilding it as shelf, the tank he showed could sit deeper or hold more volume.
you can get about 2.5" and leave the E brake bracket alone.
 
Last edited:
I'd rather he never got a mid arm. Him trying to solve his problems with the mid arm isn't far removed from trying to fix a sucking chest wound with a couple of pinky band-aids.
You'd be better using the packaging the band-aids came in. Something thin and flimsy. Use the pinky band-aids to stick that wrapper around three sides of the wound so air can get out but not in... wait. You weren't serious. Carry on.
 
  • Haha
  • Love
Reactions: DEValken and WSS
Better get your frame stretch starter kits on order
AD4FEC9B-1E17-4335-9D21-4D6E2FCEB9A6.jpeg
 
  • Like
  • Haha
Reactions: jjvw and WSS
No even close. In fact the slicing off of the cupholder is what determined the forward face of the tank. The owner adjusted the seat back angle, then how far forward he sits on the seat base. That determined the tank capacity.

Ah, I see it now. Thanks. Great idea to use that space behind the font seats.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
Ohh
A stretch tank can't address what needs to happen to the suspension. On mine, I already did a ~2" front stretch and I ended up cutting the upper spring seats off the frame to move them too. Doing similar on the rear on a 5-6" stretch would be a hack job without a back half frame kit. But why not use the frame I already have and leave it all attached. Everything is much earlier and cleaner without having to figure out how to hang a gas tank in there.
It is far easier to modify existing. But, there just isn't any room behind the axle on a TJ. I have a GR Crawler tank on my TJ-6. I've stared at it way too much trying to find a way for Josh to use something like it but modified for a stretch. Ain't happening.
If you ever need a 3D map of the areas where you need a tank to fit, even if it comes up dry, it sees areas that we cannot. I know someone with such machine. They can even make the tanks when done in small batches. I know you were looking to dump some more money on bulk projects……..
 
i just did that dance yesterday, angling the muffler between the drive shaft and upper link.

idk, where Blaine's tank sits is above the E brake bracket if 1 didn't mind breaking that hard corner from bed to rear floor and rebuilding it as shelf, the tank he showed could sit deeper or hold more volume.
you can get about 2.5" and leave the E brake bracket alone.
The tank was designed with the idea that if one wanted a very large amount of extra capacity without taking up a large amount of cargo space, it could be done. If you extend the tank back and cover the entire cargo floor back to the tailgate, that nets 5.6 gallons per inch of depth. A 2" tall tank would get you 11 more gallons of fuel added to the 18 that is there would be almost 30 gallons. Add some internal ribs and it would easily support any cargo most would carry. That could be optimized even further by converting to non flip and fold seat bases and extending the sumps under the seats between the base sides for another 3 gallons.

This one is not optimized for volume at all. My goal was anything over 15 gallons. Once I got to that with my rough calculations, I quit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: someguysjeep
Ohh


If you ever need a 3D map of the areas where you need a tank to fit, even if it comes up dry, it sees areas that we cannot. I know someone with such machine. They can even make the tanks when done in small batches. I know you were looking to dump some more money on bulk projects……..
I appreciate the offer but I won't ever build a tank for under a rig. Too many options already exist for that to make any sense.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WSS
The tank was designed with the idea that if one wanted a very large amount of extra capacity without taking up a large amount of cargo space, it could be done. If you extend the tank back and cover the entire cargo floor back to the tailgate, that nets 5.6 gallons per inch of depth. A 2" tall tank would get you 11 more gallons of fuel added to the 18 that is there would be almost 30 gallons. Add some internal ribs and it would easily support any cargo most would carry. That could be optimized even further by converting to non flip and fold seat bases and extending the sumps under the seats between the base sides for another 3 gallons.

This one is not optimized for volume at all. My goal was anything over 15 gallons. Once I got to that with my rough calculations, I quit.
i had similar thoughts of something in the 3" range ribbed internally like you said, so it could be baffled and hold weight, covering the whole bed area and then have an appendage that overhung and used the depth of the passenger foot well for the OE pump and a deep sump. couldn't find anybody local to build it. or anything i else i came up with.

i wern't tryin to say yours could have or needed to be improved, it's slick as is and i dig the use of the Holley mats. i just thought i caught that someone was lookin for ideas.
 
i had similar thoughts of something in the 3" range ribbed internally like you said, so it could be baffled and hold weight, covering the whole bed area and then have an appendage that overhung and used the depth of the passenger foot well for the OE pump and a deep sump. couldn't find anybody local to build it. or anything i else i came up with.

i wern't tryin to say yours could have or needed to be improved, it's slick as is and i dig the use of the Holley mats. i just thought i caught that someone was lookin for ideas.
When I do mine, I'll be shooting for at least 19 gallons, which means it will extend slightly more into the back than what Blaine came up with. I've also been thinking about a storage shelf on the top. And maybe even something shallow below the floor where the factory tank used to be.
 
  • Like
Reactions: someguysjeep
When I do mine, I'll be shooting for at least 19 gallons, which means it will extend slightly more into the back than what Blaine came up with. I've also been thinking about a storage shelf on the top. And maybe even something shallow below the floor where the factory tank used to be.
Lift up lid over the storage I created over the area that the top of the OEM tank occupied. Screwed a piece up to the bottom of the frame for the floor and closed off the front straight up.


1634603477883.png


1634603675142.png
 
When I do mine, I'll be shooting for at least 19 gallons, which means it will extend slightly more into the back than what Blaine came up with.
Why lose the storage in the cargo area? Extend them under the seat bases and go even less into the cargo area.
I've also been thinking about a storage shelf on the top. And maybe even something shallow below the floor where the factory tank used to be.
The storage on top is practically mandatory. You would be silly not to protect the wiring and fuel lines with a cover of some sort. The cover becomes the floor of the cargo area on top of the tank. Basic front and back rails complete it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw