Jesseshoots' TJ Build

And boom! Installed on the stiffest setting. Need to do some flex testing before I take it out on the trails, but looking forward to getting it out there.

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I'm curious to hear how you like it on the tightest setting. I've never tried to run it on that setting. The most I ever tried was the middle when they came with 5 holes.
 
I'm curious to hear how you like it on the tightest setting. I've never tried to run it on that setting. The most I ever tried was the middle when they came with 5 holes.
I was really interested in it too. I figured that most people didn't use it which is why they dropped the front two on the new versions, but I wanted first hand experience as to why. I'll report back once I get a chance to test it out.
 
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I was really interested in it too. I figured that most people didn't use it which is why they dropped the front two on the new versions, but I wanted first hand experience as to why. I'll report back once I get a chance to test it out.
I did use it on the stiffest setting before and liked how it drive in the street. Off-road I thought it was a little limiting, which is why I moved it to the middle setting. The middle was my compromise, better of both so to speak. You can see the hole locations on the arms where I used it.
 
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Instead of working on the Jeep or driving it, I decided to take some measurements for my records and to dig deeper into the next phases of the build.

I’m currently on a 4” suspension lift, 1”ish body lift (someone please let me know what a stock bushing measures out to between the mount and the tub), and 35x12.5x15” KM2 tires.

At 25psi and ride height I have:
18" clearance to transmission skid (stock).
11-1/8” clearance to front Dana 30.
10-3/4" clearance to rear Dana 44.
24-1/2" clearance to front bumper.
24-1/2" clearance to rear bumper.
18-3/4” clearance to gas tank skid (stock).
6" front shock travel remaining (exposed shaft).
7” rear shock travel remaining (exposed shaft)
75” track width (outside to outside).
92” wheelbase (+/- 1”).
<80” floor to highest soft top bow.

Based on these numbers I clearly need to figure out my shocks because there’s no way they are in the middle of their travel.

Front shocks are Skyjacker N8056S
Extended Length: 24.3”
Compressed Length: 14.52”
Travel: 10”

Rear shocks are Skyjacker N8088S
Extended Length: 24.94”
Compressed Length: 14.91”
Travel: 10”
 
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I picked up a sport cage from a club member that has the OR-Fab weld on cage conversion done to it for $200 the other weekend. Stu Olson has a write up on the cage here. I am working on cleaning it up and plan to paint it a matte silver. I’m getting the Jeep cleaned up as well while I have it all out.

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If you know, you know why I painted these cross bars like this instead of taking them out. It’s always bothered me that they were rusty since I put the Bride in there.

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I stopped by Harbor Freight today and picked up some rotary rasps. I took the evening to round off all my recovery points. I finished them off with some 150 grit. All that’s left is some paint.
Ripping your newly made soft shackle would suck a big one! Good idea. Got any finished pics of the shackle? I still haven't made the switch from the old steel ones.
 
Ripping your newly made soft shackle would suck a big one! Good idea. Got any finished pics of the shackle? I still haven't made the switch from the old steel ones.
I have some pics from when I was burying the tail. If you want to come by one weekend we can round yours off for when you make the switch

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I've been working through some brake issues over in this thread. I bought some new tools over the weekend to help with the bleeding process.
I just hopped over and read thru your brake issue you were having. Did that ever iron out? I really like the idea of running a single line into a Tee for the front brakes. (Just like the factory rears)
 
I just hopped over and read thru your brake issue you were having. Did that ever iron out? I really like the idea of running a single line into a Tee for the front brakes. (Just like the factory rears)
I re-bled the system and it was a lot better, but I'm still dealing with a bit of a hold on release from time to time. I need to do one more bleed and if that doesn't fix it I'm going to pull the lines and check for a blockage somewhere in them.

Having the brakes come out the single port makes it much cleaner, despite my excess line bundled by the diff. I figured it was better to buy too long than too short!
 
Might have just spent some Biden bucks on some Currie Trac Bars! Next up on the order list is a UCF skid system. I'm going with the ultra-high clearance in 1/4" 6061 with the matching engine skid. I picked up a free NIB Rough Country MML from a club member who was doing an ls swap so I should be good to go. Just need to find time to get all these parts installed!
 
Got the front trac bar installed last night and bled the brakes another time (hopefully the last). A buddy was working the pedal while I was working the bleed screw and we both noticed a moment where either a trapped air pocket escaped or some piece of trash came out of the lines and the bleeding became noticeably better.

Next up is to cycle the front suspension and grind away some of the shock mount so the control arms can droop to their full extent. Hopefully I'll have some luck pulling the springs this time to replace the non-existent bump stops.

After that it's on to the rear bar. I'm not looking forward to cutting off the relocation bracket that someone welded on there. It's a mess and it looks like the guy that welded it on ran it waaaayyyy too hot. I need to get after the axle side spring perches with a grinder to clearance them for the shock body. Right now they're touching and that's unacceptable.
 
It seems as if I spoke too soon on the brake issue as my bleeding was unsuccessful in removing the brake hold issue. I'm really confused on this one and will likely be throwing in the towel and taking it to a shop to figure out for me.

The suspension mods are all done but I ran into some weird issues on the rear track bar that I've been discussing in the post below.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/currie-rear-track-bar-question.51350/
The front end went together quite easily but I confirmed what I was afraid of and that's the fact that the track bar hits my RuffStuff diff cover. If I had a press, I'd pull it off and put more bend in it, but I don't so I just added back the 2" bump stop pucks on the axle. I replaced the bump stops up front with some MetalCloak ones that are good for about 1.5" fully compressed. If it wasn't for the track bar hitting the axle this is all I would need.

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Yes, that is all that was left of the best of the four bump stops on the Jeep when I bought it lmao!

I placed my order with UCF for the under armor in 1/4" 6061 with the ultra high clearance option over Memorial Day weekend since they had a 10% off sale.

I finally got a chance to pull the cage out after test fitting it and got two coats of paint on it over the weekend. Now all that's left to do is one final coat and buy some good hardware for it. I really cant wait to get back out and wheel this thing... it's been over a year now.

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