Rockjock has a rather large selection of greasable bolts too. Seems like the better way to go if possible.
Johnny Joint Maintenance
- Thread starter andy29847
- Start date
OK I'll be the one..... What good does a greased bolt do? Doesn't the joint rotate on the ball.
If the ball is drilled you should be able to fully grease it from the greasable bolt.
it's something i really should do.
i assume the bolt floods the sleeve the only outlet is the holes in the ball which will allow seep to reach the surface of the ball where it needs to be.
I'm curious what @mrblaine can tell us of doing it that way. Does the grease really flood the ball?
From my experience with this we greased sheaves on cranes via the shaft but, the sheave bearing fully rotated which spread the grease out. The JJ won't rotate like that.
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OK I just looked on the Rock Lock site and saw that hole in the ball. So if the balls are drilled then as you all are saying you should be able to pump grease into the sleeve & thru the hole which in turn would lube the ball. But wouldn't the grease just come out the ends of the sleeve?
Guess I might order greaseable bolts for the spots I have JJ's which would be 10 out of 14 joints.
I'd not order anything until someone with more experience chimes in.
Well I can't see some posts so I'll have to wait and see. And no I'm not gunna order anything YET. I'm a few months away from even needed them. I will get the tool and pull all my joints apart and grease them before I ever drive it out of the garage.
your sleeve is trapped in the bracket and you bolt head and nut seal off those outlets the only way it can go is in.
but like Apparition states how much is the unknown really.
1 might assume the joint is real tight and your just trying to get wet ports of the ball to seep grease when it moves around. a natural warming of a moving parts gonna allow it to take a drip now and then and naturally spread during movement.
i think blaine kicked on it once b4, a real solution could be a super compact loaded greaser fitting. maybe somthing to tinker with when the snows howlin in a few months.
Not easily, they are case hardened very hard.
Sure
Why? I have to take them apart and grease them maybe every 5 years and only then because I think I should, not because anything says I have to.
From my experience trying to use the bolts... The joint is so tight that the grease doesn't flow out... So if you can't get anything out, nothing is going in either... Unless you increase the pressure too much and extrude the poly race through the washer. When I got my used arms, they had evidence of that.
So... Even with the greasable bolts, you still need to tear them apart to really grease em.
So... Even with the greasable bolts, you still need to tear them apart to really grease em.
TBH i take a gob of grease and a small brush and i keep the exposed ends of the balls/barrels covered. in my melon, it might help keep water from being able to sneak in there and keep the ball lubed just a bit as it moves around.
ironic how some "other joints" that actually could use lube between the bushing and the casing and don't have zerks in the casings.
ironic how some "other joints" that actually could use lube between the bushing and the casing and don't have zerks in the casings.
Not car related, but at some point in gun world, a CLP was a go to lubricant.
Then someone came up with a gun grease, which in reality was rebranded automotive grease that cost 10x more. Brilliant idea, kudos to the guy who came up with it to make a quick buck. All gun-o-files who touch their rifle in all the arousing spots 5 times a day, went nuts for it.
Eventually that turned into a CLP vs GREASE debate, that got just as retarded as any engine/trans/gear oil debate gets on car forums.
I always had issue with both. CLP was too liquid and grease was too solid. By the end of match/course/range sessions, surface where most friction happened was pretty much dry.
However, one day i discovered that mixing them together, turns it into a nice media of a good consistency that is not too liquid and not too solid. It does not get wiped off like grease, and does not drain or evaporate like CLP, easy to apply and remains on the surface where it is needed the most.
My point:
I don't know if some grease flows better than other. Some time ago, i have purchased a tube from Amsoil along with engine oil. That tube of grease is all i know and all i have.
So, if you guys are saying that joint is too tight, how about using something that can flow through crevasses more easily. OR add CLP to grease, lubricant is a lubricant.
Also, i don't have JJs, and have never taken one apart to know what is going on in there. But to add a zerk fitting that serves no value just for the fuck of it, seems a bit silly too. But, that is just my 2 cents on this
Then someone came up with a gun grease, which in reality was rebranded automotive grease that cost 10x more. Brilliant idea, kudos to the guy who came up with it to make a quick buck. All gun-o-files who touch their rifle in all the arousing spots 5 times a day, went nuts for it.
Eventually that turned into a CLP vs GREASE debate, that got just as retarded as any engine/trans/gear oil debate gets on car forums.
I always had issue with both. CLP was too liquid and grease was too solid. By the end of match/course/range sessions, surface where most friction happened was pretty much dry.
However, one day i discovered that mixing them together, turns it into a nice media of a good consistency that is not too liquid and not too solid. It does not get wiped off like grease, and does not drain or evaporate like CLP, easy to apply and remains on the surface where it is needed the most.
My point:
I don't know if some grease flows better than other. Some time ago, i have purchased a tube from Amsoil along with engine oil. That tube of grease is all i know and all i have.
So, if you guys are saying that joint is too tight, how about using something that can flow through crevasses more easily. OR add CLP to grease, lubricant is a lubricant.
Also, i don't have JJs, and have never taken one apart to know what is going on in there. But to add a zerk fitting that serves no value just for the fuck of it, seems a bit silly too. But, that is just my 2 cents on this
Likely true for the desiccated desert southwest but a 5 year claim doesn't track for the rest of the country from what other forum members post.
Certain greasable bearings have seals designed to allow grease to flow out.
A Johnny this doesn't appear to be of this design. And perhaps external greasing can in fact damage the joint by blowing out the seal.
Interesting post to me. One of the things I have ocnsidered is injecting some oil through the zerks.
Potentially dumb question:
Is it a bad idea to try and use the grease zerks at all? In some cases so have been successful squirting grease through them, but not always. I’d hate to risk damage.
Is it a bad idea to try and use the grease zerks at all? In some cases so have been successful squirting grease through them, but not always. I’d hate to risk damage.