Journey towards armor for the LJ

LJtheunicorn

LJtheunicorn

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2020
Messages
410
Location
Dallas, Texas
As I continue down the expensive journey called owning and wheeling a Jeep I am trying to determine which route I should go with armor.

I am assuming sticking with one brand of armor so it all meshes nicely is the best bet but could use some more guidance.

I also have a feeling a majority are just going to respond with a one word answer, “savvy.” However recently I’ve heard less than exciting customer service from them and I am a big fan of customer service so that leaves me weary.

We have an enormous amount of information on here when it comes to lifts and tires but I don’t recall seeing a simple all about armor thread so hopefully this can fill that void. Or maybe there’s already a thread and someone can just point me to the one I can’t seem to find.

Basically I am wanting to start getting skid plates and looking towards a tummy tuck in the near future with all around armor in the distant future. I want to be able to wheel this thing in east Texas Arkansas and Oklahoma and then take a long trip to Moab and Colorado every now and then so rocks will be mixed into the terrain I wheel. After this last weekend I found I have an even greater tendency to fall into the rocks category….

Side note, I have a set of used aluminum nemesis true highlines I am planning to install when I jump to 35’s after gears and lockers but of course this is an expensive jump so it might be a while. My concern here is mixing other brand rock sliders with nemesis high lines and how they’ll sit side by side.

Not opposed to other brands of highlines if that’s a route I need to go.

Not completely in love with the highlines idea but at my current house I’m already pushing roof clearance when hardtop is hanging in my garage with 32’s 1.25 body lift and 2.5 spring lift so 4 inch springs are out.

Honestly I almost prefer the factory fender highline mod vs an aftermarket set of fenders. If I do this I will source some less than perfect factory fenders and hood before I cut mine up
 
I just finished my e-locker and super 30 and 35 upgrades for my 97 TJ. Went 4.88s.

Still have the 33s. Need body lift and probably a mml. I still have stock control arms sans rear lowers and stock track bars.

Did a Rusty's radiator skid...whole lot of sticks in the PNW. Also ordered the steering skid but have not installed yet because my gearbox is drifting...need to replace the box.

Rock Hard sliders ordered and probably will be here in a month.

Need corner armor next IMHO.

-Mac
 
LJtheunicorn said:
so are you saying hold off on more armor and wait until I regear and lock with 35’s before skid plates?
Click to expand...
mrblaine said:
I'll take a well set up suspension with 35's over armor any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
Click to expand...
@LJtheunicorn , focus on the part in red. A well setup suspension will benefit you 100% of the time, both on and off-road. Armor, primarily, benefits you off-road.
 
Irun said:
@LJtheunicorn , focus on the part in red. A well setup suspension will benefit you 100% of the time, both on and off-road. Armor, primarily, benefits you off-road.
Click to expand...
I have OME springs, shocks and steering stabilizer
Jks track bars
All 8 Core offroad control arms with Johnny joints
Jks mml
Jks body lift

What else is needed as far as suspension?
Once I jump to 35’s I will have to cycle suspension to determine what edits I need to make to bump stops for sure

It rides a little rougher on the road than desirable but I feel like it handles very well. I would like to add currie current lync steering.

I mainly want to see how far I can push this thing with 32’s before I jump to 35’s.
In pushing 32’s to their limit I would be more comfortable in the rocks with more skid plates and such
 
LJtheunicorn said:
I have OME springs, shocks and steering stabilizer
Jks track bars
All 8 Core offroad control arms with Johnny joints
Jks mml
Jks body lift

What else is needed as far as suspension?
Once I jump to 35’s I will have to cycle suspension to determine what edits I need to make to bump stops for sure

It rides a little rougher on the road than desirable but I feel like it handles very well. I would like to add currie current lync steering.

I mainly want to see how far I can push this thing with 32’s before I jump to 35’s.
In pushing 32’s to their limit I would be more comfortable in the rocks with more skid plates and such
Click to expand...
Which OME springs?
What Shocks?
Which core Arms?

If you provide specifics, it helps folks here give you input, based on their experience and knowledge. FWIW, you'll hear many ask what tire size? And, what belly height? The answer to those two questions helps provide more specificity about what's needed. In your case you've said two different things, i.e. 32s and 35s. Building a good setup is much harder for the later.
 
Irun said:
Which OME springs?
What Shocks?
Which core Arms?

If you provide specifics, it helps folks here give you input, based on their experience and knowledge. FWIW, you'll hear many ask what tire size? And, what belly height? The answer to those two questions helps provide more specificity about what's needed. In your case you've said two different things, i.e. 32s and 35s. Building a good setup is much harder for the later.
Click to expand...
It was all part of the DPG super ultimate kit
Core tier 2 arms adjustable on one end with Johnny joints on both ends.

Old man emu nitro charger sport shocks

Springs old man emu I’m not sure of the part numbers but they were on the lighter end, not the heavy load springs


My plan here is to build the Jeep for 35’s while enjoying the 32’s to their fullest extent. I want to as much as I can to prepare for 35’s before I actually get install 35’s
 
LJtheunicorn said:
so are you saying hold off on more armor and wait until I regear and lock with 35’s before skid plates?
Click to expand...
Most of Colorado and Moab doesn't need armour. A good 35s setup will get you almost anywhere safely.
 
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LJtheunicorn said:
It was all part of the DPG super ultimate kit
Core tier 2 arms adjustable on one end with Johnny joints on both ends.

Old man emu nitro charger sport shocks

Springs old man emu I’m not sure of the part numbers but they were on the lighter end, not the heavy load springs


My plan here is to build the Jeep for 35’s while enjoying the 32’s to their fullest extent. I want to as much as I can to prepare for 35’s before I actually get install 35’s
Click to expand...
I though core tier 2 has Johnny joint on one end and rubber or poly bushings On the other.
 
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LJtheunicorn said:
It was all part of the DPG super ultimate kit
Core tier 2 arms adjustable on one end with Johnny joints on both ends.

Old man emu nitro charger sport shocks

Springs old man emu I’m not sure of the part numbers but they were on the lighter end, not the heavy load springs


My plan here is to build the Jeep for 35’s while enjoying the 32’s to their fullest extent. I want to as much as I can to prepare for 35’s before I actually get install 35’s
Click to expand...
There's way more than this for a 35" tire suspension, but we'll start here and, hopefully, others will jump in:

- The Core arms will work, but sacrifice clearance, based on the lower control arm bend. Also, although not required, a quality double adjustable arm. with JJs on both ends, will make life much easier and perform better.

- Your OME springs will have to go, in favor of something with a 4" lift. One of the reasons the Currie springs are liked is because they offer the best free length, balancing both up and down travel.

- The Nitro Charger shocks are on the stiff side and don't offer as good a ride as something like Rancho RS5000x or even Black Max. The best setup is one where you have out boarded rear shocks that are custom tuned. The former case your going to be running 10" travel shocks (or close to that), while the later will help get you to a 12" travel shock.

- Other things like your JKS track bars will work, but you get a stronger more durable option, with potentially more range, when you go to Rock Jock (Currie)
 
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The high lines will only help in the front, so unless you plan on trimming your rear, a 2.5” spring isn’t a lot. With that said I’m only running 3” inch springs and a 1.25” body lift with 35s and I’m in the process of installing high lines to get more clearance behind the tire and above.
 
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LJtheunicorn said:
I have OME springs, shocks and steering stabilizer
Jks track bars
All 8 Core offroad control arms with Johnny joints
Jks mml
Jks body lift

What else is needed as far as suspension?
Once I jump to 35’s I will have to cycle suspension to determine what edits I need to make to bump stops for sure

It rides a little rougher on the road than desirable but I feel like it handles very well. I would like to add currie current lync steering.

I mainly want to see how far I can push this thing with 32’s before I jump to 35’s.
In pushing 32’s to their limit I would be more comfortable in the rocks with more skid plates and such
Click to expand...
I have a very similar setup to yours, also running 33s with a BL/MML with a short arm lift, and 2.5" OME shocks/springs/stabilizer.

Once these 33s run to end of life, my plan is to get to 35s with the below:

1) New brakes: Will add the BMB super 16" to stop the stock Moab wheels, should still work when I move to 17" wheels for 35s
2) New rear CV shaft: For the more severe angles
3) Adjustable rear trackbar with a Currie straight bracket
4) New 4" shocks/springs from my current OME combo (60047/60048 + 2934/2949)
5) Regear to 5.38

If you haven't done steering yet, you'll need to upgrade that as well. Possibly a new front driveshaft depending on how its compressing at full droop.

I'm planning on doing the brakes and regear sometime in the next year, should still help the 33s. The rest when the treads wear out... 3-5 years.

I plan to leave fenders/hood stock. Wish AEV was still making their highline TJ set though....
 
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