Just Expect Extra Purchases

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #41

The side body mounts are done. My annular cutter showed up on Thursday so I was able to put holes in the skid plates. I tried with a hole saw but it didn't work out so good. I'm really digging this leather welding hood. It's so much easier than welding with a mirror.

Earlier I mentioned redesigning the front fender. While I was waiting I cut a huge wedge out of the stock fenders. Managed to get them squeezed in and welded. For anyone working with body panels I highly suggest a pneumatic angle grinder. For me it gives me more control and is able to remove minimal material on sheet metal. Excuse my shitty paint job as it's not a big priority for me.

In other news, Papa Elon came through with a bonus and a raise so hopefully I'll have this thing drivable by the end of the year.

Thanks for checking out my build.
-Daniel

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Dide - you’re killin’ it.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Dide - you’re killin’ it.

Thank you sir. That means a lot coming from someone with a rig like yours.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #42 (Whew, I thought I was gonna be stuck in the 41 club)

TLDR: I don't recommend this modification

Not a lot of changes to report, but a lot of R & D because I'm trying to relocate my EVAP canister to under the hood. Why? Because when I recessed the taillights I had to move it more into the wheel well & I never liked the way it sat. Also because to my knowledge, no one had done this yet or documented it & now I know why. It's a lot of work that most likely doesn't add any value to the Jeep. The only thing I had to buy were 15' of ¾", 25' of ¼", 25' of ⅜" fuel lines & corresponding SS hose clamps. I bought extra material for other projects & I don't remember the exact amount I used for each line.

First thing I did was label each connection, drop the tank then remove the factory lines. The wiring for the EVAP is only 3 wires, Orange, White/Blue & White/Green. I was able to separate those all the way back to the dash area, route them through the firewall, shorten the wiring & reconnect. That was the end of the easy parts. I mounted the leak detection pump inside the front fender bracket on the drivers side. The LPD gets two ¾" lines, one to the EVAP canister & the other to the LDP filter. It also gets a ¼" line that goes to the forward most tube on the intake.

Next I mocked up the location of the LDP filter just above the driver side air pump tray. The tray was modified to allow two ¾" lines to pass through & then I mounted the LDP filter to the small bump out on the fender.

What ever this is, was in the way so I modified it's bracket to sit a bit lower.

Then I modified the EVAP canister bracket & mounted it onto the inner fender just behind my washer fluid reservoir. The forward ¾" line goes to the LDP & the aft goes to the flow management valve.

The flow management valve is now going to be just to the inside of that fender bracket. It gets the ¾" line from the canister & a ⅜" line from that doodad with the modified bracket under the canister. The bottom 3 nipples get a ¾" going to the passenger side of the tank, a ¼" line going to the fuel filler vent & ⅜" line going to the drivers side of the tank. I didn't pay attention to what size hose I was grabbing & it got real frustrating real fast.

First off, I installed a ½" heater hose instead of the ¾" hose. I didn't pay attention to how it was difficult to slip on & I didn't notice it was the wrong hose until everything was connected & I took this picture. I researched it, turns out heater hose & gas don't mix well.

I also didn't pay attention & tried to put the ¼" line on the wrong nipple. That damn FMV broke on the nipple going to the fuel tank filler vent. I plastic welded it back together & applied some RTV. I'll let it sit until I can get to it next weekend. I was able to get all the other connections made. Most of them probably don't need hose clamps, but I put them on anyway. I broke the retaining clips for the hose that goes from the fuel pump, to the fuel line but I discovered that if you route a medium sized zip tie through the clip channel on the connector then it serves the same purpose.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

At this point I got extremely frustrated with myself so I did some arc therapy. I used some 1" sch 40 pipe as a brace for the track bar bracket on the front. I also tested out my new pipe bender to make the front bracket for the soon to be fabricated skid plates. I ended up uses some of those drops I used for the control arm skids. drilled some holes to match the ones on the engine mount brackets with a backing plate with captured nuts. I also managed to install the M.O.R.E. motor mounts. I don't know if I mentioned it earlier but I had gotten the unfinished ones incase I decided to mount the skid plate directly to them. They got a coat of cold galv then a couple coats of flat black.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #43

It's been a busy few weeks but my Atlas showed up in the middle of my fender redesign project. I've done all the assembly of the shifters & put in countersunk bolts. A couple of things I've learned so far with the Atlas:

1. If you get the 4 speed then install the shifters all at the same time.
2. Take your time to adjust the planetary shifter.
3. The threads on the planetary shifter had too much paint/powder coat so I had to run a die over it.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Another tip on the cable shifters. Never, ever try to hoss any of the shifters. If the Atlas does not shift easily, it will not shift no matter how hard you pull. And if you pull hard, the cables will fail.

I have always known this, and still I’ve broken two cables. It’s easy to get frustrated and then just yank on them.


If it will not shift, it takes some movement to get the gears to align properly.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #44

Well it's in....finally. It was a struggle but I managed to get everything done without damaging anything important. Massaged the tub a bit on the driver's side. Fabbed up a little frame to help move it into position & lift it into place.

A couple of things I've learned on the install:

1. Leave the jam nut on the planetary shifter loose so you don't have to fight the cable tension when you bolt it to the tub.
2. Route the twin shifter cables through the tub, then attach them to the shifter itself.
3. Probably obvious to other folks, but if you're having trouble mating it to the transmission output shaft, then you may have to rotate the socket on the Atlas so the splines line up.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #45

Fabbed up the transmission cross member. My goal is to keep the skid plate & cross member separate so I went with stock control arms from a gladiator, half the OEM transmission bracket & some bushing mounts from Ruff Stuff. I'm pleased with the quality however it would be nice to have the option for them bevel the mounting edge. I did make a fatal error when I notched the tube by forgetting to clean out all the cutting oil I used to cool the hole saw. I ended up cutting out a bunch of welds from porosity. For those that don't know, you cant shouldn't weld over porosity, it has to be cut out completely because it will spread into the new weld pool making the situation worse. I was able to TIG the ends & the bracket, but I ended up MIG welding the arms while they were mounted. I wish I would have got some mock up pucks so I wouldn't have had to worry about the heat melting the bushings.

I struggled to get the transmission & Atlas tucked up as high as I could & ended up with just under 2" below the frame on the Atlas. Also it seems to have a slight downward angle towards the back left corner. Is this normal? It is clocked to spec, but I don't have any drive shafts yet so I can't check for issues there at the moment.

Also you can kind of see that I reworked the exhaust, I'll edit this post with pictures when I get some time. By "reworked" I mean I completely removed it from the manifold, inspected the cat filer thingy, cleaned all the crud off, made minor adjustments for future plans, then repainted them with high temp primer & paint. I have a question for the smart people out there. I've seen a few people will wrap their exhaust but there seems to be some disagreements on the internet if this is helpful or harmful. Is this even worth it for lowering temps around the engine & oil pan? Or would it just get clogged with dirt, mud, water & road grime?

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[sab]

I've seen a few people will wrap their exhaust but there seems to be some disagreements on the internet if this is helpful or harmful. Is this even worth it for lowering temps around the engine & oil pan? Or would it just get clogged with dirt, mud, water & road grime?

I have no proof (test data) on a TJ, but it should substantially reduce radiated heat transfer, which is a big portion of the heat transfer. It should also reduce conductive heat transfer, but how much, I'm not sure. It depends on the insulative quality of the wrap. I can tell you that wrapping headers, you can feel the reduction in radiated heat transfer. We wrapped the VR 1000 headers to keep the rider's legs cooler, and it definitely worked.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

I have no proof (test data) on a TJ, but it should substantially reduce radiated heat transfer, which is a big portion of the heat transfer. It should also reduce conductive heat transfer, but how much, I'm not sure. It depends on the insulative quality of the wrap. I can tell you that wrapping headers, you can feel the reduction in radiated heat transfer. We wrapped the VR 1000 headers to keep the rider's legs cooler, and it definitely worked.

Thanks, that's good to know. Since the wrap keeps the heat in, wouldn't it put the metal through more extreme (higher temperature) heat cycles? Or is this a non issue?

What about after the cats? The exhaust wraps around the oil pan so I would think that it would increase the oil temperature

 

[tworley]

Awesome fab work. You've been doing a ton to this thing!

 

[sab]

Thanks, that's good to know. Since the wrap keeps the heat in, wouldn't it put the metal through more extreme (higher temperature) heat cycles? Or is this a non issue?

Nothing is hotter than exhaust gases straight out of the cylinder, which the stock cast manifold handles just fine. From there, it cools rapidly (still hot, but not stinking hot). The extra heat held in the exhaust stream shouldn't be a problem for the exhaust system.

What about after the cats? The exhaust wraps around the oil pan so I would think that it would increase the oil temperature

It seems like it would, but I have no personal experience with that, so I have no idea how much it would help.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Awesome fab work. You've been doing a ton to this thing!

Thanks. I've had to rework a few things along the way. Partly because my first version was not as functional as it should be & partly because I didn't like the way it looked.

My next project will be attempting a re-gear. Hopefully I've offered up enough fabrication knowledge to be able to pick a few brains on here when it comes to mechanical know how.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #46

Summer has been extremely busy working 72 hours a week. I've managed to get a few things done though. The fenders were tapered in to get rid of the "wings" I made initially. I ended up stripping the nuts in the grilel so that was fun. The grille was removed so I could plug weld, re-drill & tap fresh threads.

Since the grille was dismantled I cut some holes for the turn signals. I've had the stock ones off for a long time & at some point I must have cracked one. Replaced them with some cheap LED off Amazon. I think everything came out decent.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #47

Since I had the bumper off when I worked on the grille I decided to tweak it a bit. My first design had the bolts going through the hooks, then the bumper plate, then the winch plate & then the frame. It also used mismatched bolts & a couple of button head bolts.

New design has the winch plate lowered as much as possible with the bumper welded to it at 5 locations along the front. I placed some stiffeners under the winch plate as well. I'm fairly confident that that the bumper itself could be used as a recovery point.

I have been trying to come up with a design to flat tow the Jeep with my Gladiator. Yes it's not ideal which is why I'm opting not to use a trailer. I understand that I will have to remove the drive shafts & I'm okay with that. I've got two shackle mounts that worked pretty well.

Other miscellaneous projects were molding the fender covers but I ran out of closed end rivets. Also got the center console back in with all the shifters complete. I do need a new boot for the transmission shifter.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #48

I was not happy with the cross member I built for the Atlas. I only gained about 1" of ground clearance & most of that was from the body lift so there was still 2" hanging below the frame. I raised the TC up as high as it would go, marked where it touched, then cut that out. Repeated this a few dozen times until I maxed out my comfort of how much I was willing to cut. After that it was just weld in new floor pieces & paint.

Cross member version 2 was much easier to fabricate. I took my time welding it in place & periodically let it cool off to limit distortion. I made another one to sit behind the TC. Both cross members are isolated with rubber bushings to keep the vibration to a minimum.

Also I made a better mount for the front camera since the original was held on with zip ties.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Update #49

The last post actually took place over the holidays so I'll get this caught up. Since then I've been working on the "roll cage" I know I wanted a bar behind the back seats as well as along the sides. Also I put in cross bars by the windshield frame & above the back seats. Finally two bars down the center. I know that this is not a finished project, but I decided to paint it anyway with the usual method: primer, rock texture paint then tan to match the interior. Eventually I will add another bar behind the driver seats, behind the A pillar & across the dash. The cage is at the point where I can barely remove & install it by myself so the rest will have to wait. There were also some cosmetic changes involving plug welding holes & gaps.

I also installed some supports from the rear cage to the rear torque box. I got the idea from @Wildman build thread post. It looked like a challenge for my fabrication skills so why not. It didn't cost me anything & it will provide some additional reinforcement. I forgot to take more pictures because I tend to get in the zone with GTAW.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

 

[Wildman]

Update #49

The last post actually took place over the holidays so I'll get this caught up. Since then I've been working on the "roll cage" I know I wanted a bar behind the back seats as well as along the sides. Also I put in cross bars by the windshield frame & above the back seats. Finally two bars down the center. I know that this is not a finished project, but I decided to paint it anyway with the usual method: primer, rock texture paint then tan to match the interior. Eventually I will add another bar behind the driver seats, behind the A pillar & across the dash. The cage is at the point where I can barely remove & install it by myself so the rest will have to wait. There were also some cosmetic changes involving plug welding holes & gaps.

I also installed some supports from the rear cage to the rear torque box. I got the idea from @Wildman build thread post. It looked like a challenge for my fabrication skills so why not. It didn't cost me anything & it will provide some additional reinforcement. I forgot to take more pictures because I tend to get in the zone with GTAW.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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WOW that is looking great... I ended up pulling the rear cage supports back out due to clearance issues with the fuel filler and no way to fit it around the supports... I sure wish one or two of my welds looked half as good as yours.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Update #49

The last post actually took place over the holidays so I'll get this caught up. Since then I've been working on the "roll cage" I know I wanted a bar behind the back seats as well as along the sides. Also I put in cross bars by the windshield frame & above the back seats. Finally two bars down the center. I know that this is not a finished project, but I decided to paint it anyway with the usual method: primer, rock texture paint then tan to match the interior. Eventually I will add another bar behind the driver seats, behind the A pillar & across the dash. The cage is at the point where I can barely remove & install it by myself so the rest will have to wait. There were also some cosmetic changes involving plug welding holes & gaps.

I also installed some supports from the rear cage to the rear torque box. I got the idea from @Wildman build thread post. It looked like a challenge for my fabrication skills so why not. It didn't cost me anything & it will provide some additional reinforcement. I forgot to take more pictures because I tend to get in the zone with GTAW.

Thanks for checking out my build
-Daniel

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TIG, I assume? Beautiful work, Dan.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

WOW that is looking great... I ended up pulling the rear cage supports back out due to clearance issues with the fuel filler and no way to fit it around the supports... I sure wish one or two of my welds looked half as good as yours.

I struggled with the fuel filler as well. I had to work the filler tube & the vent tube to get it to fit.

TIG, I assume? Beautiful work, Dan.

Thank you sir. Yes, I wanted to weld as much as I could while it was still bolted in the Jeep to mitigate any warping. No sparks with GTAW & I could also ensure complete joint penetration with multiple passes. It made for some interesting welding positions but it took a long time. It was tough but I enjoyed every minute of it. I think for stage 2 I'll remove the interior to make it easier.