Update #42 (Whew, I thought I was gonna be stuck in the 41 club)
TLDR: I don't recommend this modification
Not a lot of changes to report, but a lot of R & D because I'm trying to relocate my EVAP canister to under the hood. Why? Because when I recessed the taillights I had to move it more into the wheel well & I never liked the way it sat. Also because to my knowledge, no one had done this yet or documented it & now I know why. It's a lot of work that most likely doesn't add any value to the Jeep. The only thing I had to buy were 15' of ¾", 25' of ¼", 25' of ⅜" fuel lines & corresponding SS hose clamps. I bought extra material for other projects & I don't remember the exact amount I used for each line.
First thing I did was label each connection, drop the tank then remove the factory lines. The wiring for the EVAP is only 3 wires, Orange, White/Blue & White/Green. I was able to separate those all the way back to the dash area, route them through the firewall, shorten the wiring & reconnect. That was the end of the easy parts. I mounted the leak detection pump inside the front fender bracket on the drivers side. The LPD gets two ¾" lines, one to the EVAP canister & the other to the LDP filter. It also gets a ¼" line that goes to the forward most tube on the intake.
Next I mocked up the location of the LDP filter just above the driver side air pump tray. The tray was modified to allow two ¾" lines to pass through & then I mounted the LDP filter to the small bump out on the fender.
What ever this is, was in the way so I modified it's bracket to sit a bit lower.
Then I modified the EVAP canister bracket & mounted it onto the inner fender just behind my washer fluid reservoir. The forward ¾" line goes to the LDP & the aft goes to the flow management valve.
The flow management valve is now going to be just to the inside of that fender bracket. It gets the ¾" line from the canister & a ⅜" line from that doodad with the modified bracket under the canister. The bottom 3 nipples get a ¾" going to the passenger side of the tank, a ¼" line going to the fuel filler vent & ⅜" line going to the drivers side of the tank. I didn't pay attention to what size hose I was grabbing & it got real frustrating real fast.
First off, I installed a ½" heater hose instead of the ¾" hose. I didn't pay attention to how it was difficult to slip on & I didn't notice it was the wrong hose until everything was connected & I took this picture. I researched it, turns out heater hose & gas don't mix well.
I also didn't pay attention & tried to put the ¼" line on the wrong nipple. That damn FMV broke on the nipple going to the fuel tank filler vent. I plastic welded it back together & applied some RTV. I'll let it sit until I can get to it next weekend. I was able to get all the other connections made. Most of them probably don't need hose clamps, but I put them on anyway. I broke the retaining clips for the hose that goes from the fuel pump, to the fuel line but I discovered that if you route a medium sized zip tie through the clip channel on the connector then it serves the same purpose.
At this point I got extremely frustrated with myself so I did some arc therapy. I used some 1" sch 40 pipe as a brace for the track bar bracket on the front. I also tested out my new pipe bender to make the front bracket for the soon to be fabricated skid plates. I ended up uses some of those drops I used for the control arm skids. drilled some holes to match the ones on the engine mount brackets with a backing plate with captured nuts. I also managed to install the M.O.R.E. motor mounts. I don't know if I mentioned it earlier but I had gotten the unfinished ones incase I decided to mount the skid plate directly to them. They got a coat of cold galv then a couple coats of flat black.
Thanks for checking out my build
Daniel
