Just hit 150k and need general maintenance advice

[RiverJo]

My Jeep recently hit 150k miles and with that the original clutch on it started slipping. I went ahead and took it to a shop to get replaced since I don’t have the resources and time to try and do it myself. While in the shop the told me that my rear main seal was leaking and wanted to charge me another 700 which I don’t have so I said no. I’m looking into possibly doing it myself and was wondering if there is anything else I should go ahead and replace while I am always under there? Also, anything else I should think about replacing in general since it’s higher mileage? I’ve only had the Jeep for a few months and have no idea what’s actually been replaced on it. Thanks in advance for any tips!

 

[bromel]

He wants to charge you $700 on top of what he's charging for the clutch?! That is effing insane. When you drop the transmission to replace the clutch, you can do the rear main fairly quickly while you are there.

Has he already done the clutch job? You can actually replace the rear main by disconnecting the exhaust and removing the oil pan. It's a two-piece seal, so it's removable with the transmission still in place. But honestly, every 4.0 you see on the road probably has a leaking rear main, so it doesn't really matter.

 

[cpwolf]

What kind of leak is it, consistent drip, or even that noticeable?

 

[Chris]

At 150k miles and as old as the TJ is, I would highly recommend a cooling system overhaul (see here: Jeep Wrangler TJ Cooling System Overhaul FAQ) and a replacing the O2 sensors (see here: The Official Jeep Wrangler TJ Oxygen (O2) Sensor Thread).

 

[RiverJo]

He wants to charge you $700 on top of what he's charging for the clutch?! That is effing insane. When you drop the transmission to replace the clutch, you can do the rear main fairly quickly while you are there.

Has he already done the clutch job? You can actually replace the rear main by disconnecting the exhaust and removing the oil pan. It's a two-piece seal, so it's removable with the transmission still in place. But honestly, every 4.0 you see on the road probably has a leaking rear main, so it doesn't really matter.

Yup 700! At first it was 97 then he said he had to move a bunch of stuff to get to it. And yes he’s already done it. The only reason I told him to forget it is because of the fact that I read online that a bunch of either people still drive there’s with a leak.

What kind of leak is it, consistent drip, or even that noticeable?

I’m not sure what kind of leak it is as I didn’t even know there was one until the guy said so. He said it was leaking on the clutch which could decrease the life of it. That’s all I know.

 

[RiverJo]

At 150k miles and as old as the TJ is, I would highly recommend a cooling system overhaul (see here: Jeep Wrangler TJ Cooling System Overhaul FAQ) and a replacing the O2 sensors (see here: The Official Jeep Wrangler TJ Oxygen (O2) Sensor Thread).

Thank you for this and for making the thread on how to change the rear main seal. It’s going to help alot.

 

[cpwolf]

I’m not sure what kind of leak it is as I didn’t even know there was one until the guy said so. He said it was leaking on the clutch which could decrease the life of it. That’s all I know.

Personally, I’d hold off. “Dripping on the Clutch”. ?! I mean, that’s an extreme statement it seems to me.

hell, I have had a RMS leak on a TJ and JK with a 6 speed manual, I didn’t see that the oil would “drip on the clutch” unless the Jeep was rolled on its top wheels up, I mean I was crazy in college driving my CJ, but I haven’t come close to getting my TJ upside down so and RMS leak would drip on my clutch.

Could residual blow around , yes, but get up inside the Bell Housing? That doesn’t pass my smell test.

 

[cpwolf]

Drive it, check for leak, keep an eye on it.
Also, change your oil, change to Conventional Oil vs synthetic. Mobil Conventional High Mileage that may help with gasket health, and see, just check your oil regularly to make sure you are good. After 4 months of driving you’ll see if you have a leak that is significant.

I’m not in the camp of just let stuff leak, but seems like too many mechanic shops seem to say, ok, RMS change, lot of money, out of the gate. I’d make 100% sure before jumping to that.

 

[Chris]

Thank you for this and for making the thread on how to change the rear main seal. It’s going to help alot.

You're welcome!

 

[Goatman]

If you don't have the ability to change a clutch you don't have the ability to change a RMS. And as said, $700 when the trans is already down is insane. And at that point the only thing still in the way is the oil pan. I would be looking for a new mechanic.
For $700 you could get yourself a good set of tools and be able to fix almost anything there is in a Jeep.
Find yourself a local offroad club and get friendly with them. They should know the best places for Jeep repair. Hell, one might even invite you over to fix things in his garage. A pizza and a 12 pack might be the bill.

 

[duncanator]

Drive it, check for leak, keep an eye on it.
Also, change your oil, change to Conventional Oil vs synthetic. Mobil Conventional High Mileage that may help with gasket health, and see, just check your oil regularly to make sure you are good. After 4 months of driving you’ll see if you have a leak that is significant.

I’m not in the camp of just let stuff leak, but seems like too many mechanic shops seem to say, ok, RMS change, lot of money, out of the gate. I’d make 100% sure before jumping to that.

I just saw a new video last night talking about synthetic and high mileage oils from engineering explained with support from Mobil. I was thinking of my Jeep and the threads here while watching it.

 

[RMETeeJay]

Great advice so far, the only thing I'd add is to replace the valve cover gasket first for the oil leak. It's an easier job for someone that is trying to get in to wrenching, and many on here will tell you that it solved their 'RMS' leak.

If you do that and switch to high mileage oil with seal conditioners and it still leaks alot, then either find a more reasonably priced mechanic or tackle the job yourself (or with a buddy who is experienced).

 

[eastbloc]

^ that, yes, for fuck sake!
I replaced my RMS 3 times, turned out to be a new valve cover, was leaking just as much as the old one.

 

[RiverJo]

Drive it, check for leak, keep an eye on it.
Also, change your oil, change to Conventional Oil vs synthetic. Mobil Conventional High Mileage that may help with gasket health, and see, just check your oil regularly to make sure you are good. After 4 months of driving you’ll see if you have a leak that is significant.

I’m not in the camp of just let stuff leak, but seems like too many mechanic shops seem to say, ok, RMS change, lot of money, out of the gate. I’d make 100% sure before jumping to that.

I just saw a new video last night talking about synthetic and high mileage oils from engineering explained with support from Mobil. I was thinking of my Jeep and the threads here while watching it.

Thanks for this. Never knew what kind of oil I should be using so I’ll look into switching what kind of oil I use. And I’ll be sure to keep an eye on it.

 

[RiverJo]

Great advice so far, the only thing I'd add is to replace the valve cover gasket first for the oil leak. It's an easier job for someone that is trying to get in to wrenching, and many on here will tell you that it solved their 'RMS' leak.

If you do that and switch to high mileage oil with seal conditioners and it still leaks alot, then either find a more reasonably priced mechanic or tackle the job yourself (or with a buddy who is experienced).

Will did definitely consider doing this first. Would rather start small and work my way up haha. If you know where I can find info on doing this I’d would appreciate a link!

 

[cpwolf]

Thanks for this. Never knew what kind of oil I should be using so I’ll look into switching what kind of oil I use. And I’ll be sure to keep an eye on it.

Search for related Oil Leak threads, this is what i did and it slowed and stopped an oil leak over about 3 weeks. Not always going to work, but worth the try first.

Jerry on Many threads posted on the topic here is an example.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/oil-leak-after-changing-rear-main-seal.39873/#post-665600
Short of having it replaced again try switching the oil to a high mileage CONVENTIONAL motor oil like Mobil Super 10W-30. That completely stopped a major RMS leak in my BMW in just a few days. Mobil Super and other high-mileage conventional oils contain seal conditioners that fix things like that. No guarantees since yours may not have been installed correctly but it can't hurt.

 

[RMETeeJay]

Will did definitely consider doing this first. Would rather start small and work my way up haha. If you know where I can find info on doing this I’d would appreciate a link!

There is no valve cover specific write up here that I know of, but there are some great videos on youtube. Here are some tips:

• Download your model year FSM from the Resources sub-forum; it has the details you need.
• One hassle is that the plastic wire loom protector at the rear of the cover (by the firewall) is a PITA to remove. Take your time and pry up gradually if you don't want to break it. Others just break it off and put a new wire protector on.
• Some of the rubber grommets and hoses for crankcase breathing will be old and brittle, so don't remove those unless the cover is off (otherwise the pieces will fall into your head which is bad!) and you have new replacements ready to go.
• I can't comment on whether or not to go with OEM or Fel-Pro for the gasket, but when removing the old gasket, lay rags over the inside of the head and scrape toward the outside of the head with a fresh blade so the old gasket bits don't fall into the head. Probably a good idea to change the oil after the job just in case any bits fell in (good time to switch to an oil with seal conditioners!).
• Grab a Harbor Freight low torque wrench to do the cover nuts and follow the FSM to torque in the right sequence (circular from the center outwards).

 

[qslim]

My Jeep recently hit 150k miles and with that the original clutch on it started slipping. I went ahead and took it to a shop to get replaced since I don’t have the resources and time to try and do it myself. While in the shop the told me that my rear main seal was leaking and wanted to charge me another 700 which I don’t have so I said no. I’m looking into possibly doing it myself and was wondering if there is anything else I should go ahead and replace while I am always under there? Also, anything else I should think about replacing in general since it’s higher mileage? I’ve only had the Jeep for a few months and have no idea what’s actually been replaced on it. Thanks in advance for any tips!

Whenever I get a new vehicle I go through and replace or at least inspect) all the maintenance items as soon as I get a chance. Engine oil, oil/air filter, spark plugs, distro cap/wires (if you have them), diff oil, & trans fluid. I like resetting the baseline for that kind of stuff, makes me feel good knowing that the intervals have been reset.

As for other stuff like gaskets, cooling system components etc I just give it a good look & address as needed.

BTW $700 to change an RMS when the trans is off for a clutch change is robbery. I wouldn’t be going back there.

Regardless of what you plan to do this board has everything you need. Head over to the TJ Resources section, grab your factory service manual, and go from there. Drive your TJ for a good while and figure out what it needs, post up your questions and everyone here will help you out.

Don’t forget to install an angry grille.

 

[hardtailpan]

Don’t forget to install an angry grille.

Ah man, that's cruel!