LED Lighting Load Resistor Installation

baustin6

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Oct 11, 2016
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Maryland
I have a 2004 LJ and have replaced the rear taillight incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. Of course they are hyper flashing, indicating the CPU thinks the bulbs are out due to the low current draw. There are only three wires coming from the light fixture, VT/BK (Backup Lamp), BK/YL (Tail Lamp), and DG/RD (Left Turn Signal). There is no ground wire near the housing as the ground connection is made via the screws to the body that secure the light assembly to the vehicle.

How do I wire a Pilot Load Resistor in parallel with vampire clamps to the circuit with no ground wire? I think I have a couple of options, but need verification.
1. Clamp one end of the load wire to the DG/BK wire and attach the other end to one of the body mount bolts.
2. Run a new wire from the chassis ground up to each tail light assembly and splice the ground connection to one end of the load and calmp the other end of the load to the DG/BK wire.
3. Clamp the load between the DG/BK (Turn) and the BK/YL (Tail) wires.

If someone has run against this issue, please assist in helping me figure it out. I appreciate any comments. I will add photos of the wires and schematics later.
 
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Great info! I would have never considered this...

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
Yup. LED flasher relay is the way to go. Most auto part stores will have them.
 
Thanks for all the input. I totally forgot about the Flasher option. Guess that will be the route to go then.
 
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I tried resistors until I done got edjumacated bout the flash relay. Relay is the best choice.
 
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LED headlights don't effect the relay lol. Only turn signals do.

I know, I just threw that in there so everyone knew I was running LEDs all around, including the front turn signals.
 
Load resistors are a bad idea for a bunch of reasons.
EP-26 LED is its p/n.
I looked at the factory flasher and it didn't match up to the EP-26 (it only has 4 blades). I did find the EP-27 that has 5 blades. I made sure it was LED compatible and it worked like a charm. No more hyper flashing.
 
I looked at the factory flasher and it didn't match up to the EP-26 (it only has 4 blades). I did find the EP-27 that has 5 blades. I made sure it was LED compatible and it worked like a charm. No more hyper flashing.
The flasher circuit did change sometime around 2003, I wasn't aware its flasher pin configuration changed too.
 
I have a 2004 LJ and have replaced the rear taillight incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. Of course they are hyper flashing, indicating the CPU thinks the bulbs are out due to the low current draw. There are only three wires coming from the light fixture, VT/BK (Backup Lamp), BK/YL (Tail Lamp), and DG/RD (Left Turn Signal). There is no ground wire near the housing as the ground connection is made via the screws to the body that secure the light assembly to the vehicle.

How do I wire a Pilot Load Resistor in parallel with vampire clamps to the circuit with no ground wire? I think I have a couple of options, but need verification.
1. Clamp one end of the load wire to the DG/BK wire and attach the other end to one of the body mount bolts.
2. Run a new wire from the chassis ground up to each tail light assembly and splice the ground connection to one end of the load and calmp the other end of the load to the DG/BK wire.
3. Clamp the load between the DG/BK (Turn) and the BK/YL (Tail) wires.

If someone has run against this issue, please assist in helping me figure it out. I appreciate any comments. I will add photos of the wires and schematics later.
led-28.webp
 
I have a 2004 LJ and have replaced the rear taillight incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. Of course they are hyper flashing, indicating the CPU thinks the bulbs are out due to the low current draw. There are only three wires coming from the light fixture, VT/BK (Backup Lamp), BK/YL (Tail Lamp), and DG/RD (Left Turn Signal). There is no ground wire near the housing as the ground connection is made via the screws to the body that secure the light assembly to the vehicle.

How do I wire a Pilot Load Resistor in parallel with vampire clamps to the circuit with no ground wire? I think I have a couple of options, but need verification.
1. Clamp one end of the load wire to the DG/BK wire and attach the other end to one of the body mount bolts.
2. Run a new wire from the chassis ground up to each tail light assembly and splice the ground connection to one end of the load and calmp the other end of the load to the DG/BK wire.
3. Clamp the load between the DG/BK (Turn) and the BK/YL (Tail) wires.

If someone has run against this issue, please assist in helping me figure it out. I appreciate any comments. I will add photos of the wires and schematics later.
nov_ep27_pri_angle.webp
 
led-14.webp
I have a 2004 LJ and have replaced the rear taillight incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. Of course they are hyper flashing, indicating the CPU thinks the bulbs are out due to the low current draw. There are only three wires coming from the light fixture, VT/BK (Backup Lamp), BK/YL (Tail Lamp), and DG/RD (Left Turn Signal). There is no ground wire near the housing as the ground connection is made via the screws to the body that secure the light assembly to the vehicle.

How do I wire a Pilot Load Resistor in parallel with vampire clamps to the circuit with no ground wire? I think I have a couple of options, but need verification.
1. Clamp one end of the load wire to the DG/BK wire and attach the other end to one of the body mount bolts.
2. Run a new wire from the chassis ground up to each tail light assembly and splice the ground connection to one end of the load and calmp the other end of the load to the DG/BK wire.
3. Clamp the load between the DG/BK (Turn) and the BK/YL (Tail) wires.

If someone has run against this issue, please assist in helping me figure it out. I appreciate any comments. I will add photos of the wires and schematics later.

If someone wanted to avoid paying for an LED flasher, you can modify your original by removing the plastic cover from the relay and severing the blown bulb circuit (marked in red) in the following photo:
 
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I replaced the relay and it all works great except the front turn and side marker lights, The green turn lights on my dash stay on all the time now,, aggravates me so I took em out. any updates as to how to make these work??
 
Headlights and tail lights work great, it's front turn signal lights and side marker lights that don't work correctly. Green turn lights on dash stay on all the time.