LJ - 4" lift necessities

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

I have an '05 LJ currently with a 3" lift. The off-road shop I took it to talked me into 35's and adjustable control arms (said it would be fine for what I do). The tires slightly rub the rear inner fenders on the off roading that I do. I'd like to go to a 4" lift to eliminate the little rubbing that occurs. I already have a 1" tcase drop.
Can I run 4" springs and shocks without changing to a SYE and new drive shaft?
If I need a SYE and driveshaft, can I eliminate the tcase drop by just removing the spacers?
Are there any other items I'd have to change along with the 4" springs?

Pictures added to show tcase drop and current ride height at 3" lift.

 

[JMT]

I have an '05 LJ currently with a 3" lift. The off-road shop I took it to talked me into 35's and adjustable control arms (said it would be fine for what I do). The tires slightly rub the rear inner fenders on the off roading that I do. I'd like to go to a 4" lift to eliminate the little rubbing that occurs. I already have a 1" tcase drop.
Can I run 4" springs and shocks without changing to a SYE and new drive shaft?
If I need a SYE and driveshaft, can I eliminate the tcase drop by just removing the spacers?
Are there any other items I'd have to change along with the 4" springs?

Pictures added to show tcase drop and current ride height at 3" lift.

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Dumb off-road shop. Don't go back there. They could just be trying to upswell you. Get you to come back when you realize it’s not enough lift and tell you all the stuff you need.

Here are your options.

Option 1:
You could add a 1.25" body lift and get some more clearance for your 35's. You may clear. You can clear for sure if you add more bumpstop.

Option 2:
4" lift you will definitely need an SYE, DC and rear control arms to adjust the pinion.
If you did this you could remove the TCase drop.

Going to 35's is no joke. If you ask me if there is more to do, my answer is I don't know because I don't know you're entire setup. My guess is "yes" because very few are ready to go straight to 35's from 33's. Think brakes, steering, adjustable rear trackbar, front driveshaft, et. al.

 

[gatertamer]

You will for sure need adjustable everything especially to keep your axle’s centered and pinion adjustment I’m running a 4 inch suspension lift and 1 1/4 body lift but I still have stock driveshaft (Tom wood dc on order) but haven’t run into any problems

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Dumb off-road shop. Don't go back there. They could just be trying to upswell you. Get you to come back when you realize it’s not enough lift and tell you all the stuff you need.

Here are your options.

Option 1:
You could add a 1.25" body lift and get some more clearance for your 35's. You may clear. You can clear for sure if you add more bumpstop.

Option 2:
4" lift you will definitely need an SYE, DC and rear control arms to adjust the pinion.
If you did this you could remove the TCase drop.

Going to 35's is no joke. If you ask me if there is more to do, my answer is I don't know because I don't know you're entire setup. My guess is "yes" because very few are ready to go straight to 35's from 33's. Think brakes, steering, adjustable rear trackbar, front driveshaft, et. al.

The shop added adjustable control arms with the tires, but didn't adjust the rear correctly. While cleaning the Jeep after a Jeep festival, I noticed the rear differential was rubbing the gas tank skid while off road. I watched videos and read through the forum and adjusted everything to be centered at full stuff. I adjusted the pinion angle to match the 5⁰ from the transfer case. While I did that, I changed to 5 inch bump stops. A regear has been done (5.13 with the automatic), as well as a powerstop brake upgrade. I plan to go to the heavy duty Rubicon Express Y steering upgrade. I'll also go to chromoly axles at some point too. If like to stay away from a body lift if possible. It barely rubbed with 3" of lift, I was hoping to get away with adding another inch to the springs. I'm not opposed to a SYE and drive shafts if needed (they are the only things on the Jeep with any sort of rust).

 

[gatertamer]

5 inch bump stops may be extreme most on this forum say you need at least 4inches of up travel. A 1 1/4 body lift is really the way to go to solve your problem. It’s incredibly easy to install

 

[JMT]

The shop added adjustable control arms with the tires, but didn't adjust the rear correctly. While cleaning the Jeep after a Jeep festival, I noticed the rear differential was rubbing the gas tank skid while off road. I watched videos and read through the forum and adjusted everything to be centered at full stuff. I adjusted the pinion angle to match the 5⁰ from the transfer case. While I did that, I changed to 5 inch bump stops. A regear has been done (5.13 with the automatic), as well as a powerstop brake upgrade. I plan to go to the heavy duty Rubicon Express Y steering upgrade. I'll also go to chromoly axles at some point too. If like to stay away from a body lift if possible. It barely rubbed with 3" of lift, I was hoping to get away with adding another inch to the springs. I'm not opposed to a SYE and drive shafts if needed (they are the only things on the Jeep with any sort of rust).

Lots of backward things in here. Save some money and frustration.

What’s the issue with a small body lift (1-1.25”)?

1. Body lift is the best bang for your buck mod you can do. Even if you have aesthetic objections, those can be overcome.
2. Y-steering is not an upgrade. It’s a downgrade. Stay with the Haltenberger style (TJ) system.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-the-best-steering-for-my-jeep-wrangler-tj.2956/

3. You shouldn’t have 5” bumpstop with 3” lift. When I was there I had full clearance with 2” bumpstops (and a 1.25” BL), so equivalent of you having 3.25”. You definitely aren’t utilizing the travel you could be.

 

[97TJNM]

I have about 9k in my setup to run 35s. That's just parts. I did all the wrenching myself. 4" spring lift and 1.25 body lift. And I still get some slight rubbing in places under heavy articulation. It ain't cheap to run 35's.

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Lots of backward things in here. Save some money and frustration.

What’s the issue with a small body lift (1-1.25”)?

1. Body lift is the best bang for your buck mod you can do. Even if you have aesthetic objections, those can be overcome.
2. Y-steering is not an upgrade. It’s a downgrade. Stay with the Haltenberger style (TJ) system.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-the-best-steering-for-my-jeep-wrangler-tj.2956/

3. You shouldn’t have 5” bumpstop with 3” lift. When I was there I had full clearance with 2” bumpstops (and a 1.25” BL), so equivalent of you having 3.25”. You definitely aren’t utilizing the travel you could be.

I'm new to this whole thing. Just trying to correct what I was told would work, while not crunching a fender. I can redo the bump stops. My objections to the body lift are solely aesthetic. If 4" springs would do the same as the 1" body lift I'd rather do that, even if it means more money in the SYE. As for the steering, I was simply looking at something that looked to be the same style as what is on the Jeep and bolt on ready.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubicon-express-heavyduty-ylink-style-steering-kit-9706-tj.html
I'm up for any and all suggestions.
Thank you all for the input.

 

[PNW_LJ]

Another vote for installing a body lift, highest return mod you can do.

You’re lucky as an LJ owner, you can likely get away with a 4” lift with no SYE/DC if you keep those tcase drop spacers.

But if you want a tummy tuck, those spacers have to go and the mods list get bigger.

 

[JMT]

I'm new to this whole thing. Just trying to correct what I was told would work, while not crunching a fender. I'll look into the body lift route and a currie steering system.

Good ideas! Both solid choices.

I’m not too fond of the aesthetics of a small BL, but realized early in the function was more important than the form. Later I learned you can do raised body mounts for the six along the middle of the frame. I’ve done that. Keeps them up away from the rocks. I also learned you can do a frame tuck at the rear. Then those pucks are gone and it looks stock. Really cool stuff. The frame tuck is planned to take place in a few weeks.

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Good ideas! Both solid choices.

I’m not too fond of the aesthetics of a small BL, but realized early in the function was more important than the form. Later I learned you can do raised body mounts for the six along the middle of the frame. I’ve done that. Keeps them up away from the rocks. I also learned you can do a frame tuck at the rear. Then those pucks are gone and it looks stock. Really cool stuff. The frame tuck is planned to take place in a few weeks.

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I made some edits to my previous reply and added the link to the steering I had initially looked at. I don't do any crazy off roading (Western Pa blue trails). Not sure what all is needed to raise body mounts, but the frame and body are spotless on this Jeep, and I'd prefer to not have to cut and weld anything. After the issues I've seen with the initial work the shop did, I'm up for doing most if not all of the work going forward myself.
I appreciate all the info. There's just a lot to unpack with where I'm at, and I'd like to do it as aesthetically and mechanically correct as I can.

 

[JMT]

I made some edits to my previous reply and added the link to the steering I had initially looked at. I don't do any crazy off roading (Western Pa blue trails). Not sure what all is needed to raise body mounts, but the frame and body are spotless on this Jeep, and I'd prefer to not have to cut and weld anything. After the issues I've seen with the initial work the shop did, I'm up for doing most if not all of the work going forward myself.
I appreciate all the info. There's just a lot to unpack with where I'm at, and I'd like to do it as aesthetically and mechanically correct as I can.

You’re in the right place to get things done mechanically and physics right. Lots of great people here that are enthusiasts or multi decade TJ experts who have watched the scene evolve and know this stuff, and some have designed the best products in the world.

Oh, and nothing at all wrong with going with a 4+1.25 for 35’s. Standard stuff. Solid. Best way to go. Will clear 35’s.

 

[jjvw]

5 inch bump stops may be extreme most on this forum say you need at least 4inches of up travel. A 1 1/4 body lift is really the way to go to solve your problem. It’s incredibly easy to install

4" of up travel is about what the Jeep has in stock from. It feels wise to consider that as a minimum baseline to maintain when building. Even more wise would be to keep the shock travels at about 50/50 from ride height which should result in more than 4" both directions.

Also, the bump stops should not be the final limit to up travel. Let the shocks do that and set the bumps to make the soft jounces slow down the travel speed before full shock compression.

 

[jjvw]

I have about 9k in my setup to run 35s. That's just parts. I did all the wrenching myself. 4" spring lift and 1.25 body lift. And I still get some slight rubbing in places under heavy articulation. It ain't cheap to run 35's.

Light rubbing is fine as long as there isn't damage occurring. The tires on mine rub a bit at the far reaches of travel.

 

[jjvw]

... My objections to the body lift are solely aesthetic. ...

I like my body lift quite a bit. As much as I like my beadlocks.

 

[jjvw]

.... As for the steering, I was simply looking at something that looked to be the same style as what is on the Jeep and bolt on ready.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubicon-express-heavyduty-ylink-style-steering-kit-9706-tj.html
I'm up for any and all suggestions.
Thank you all for the input.

While that steering maintains the factory inverse Y geometry that you want with stock axles, is is not adjusted for a spring lift the way RockJock is where the tie rod ends are angled to put them in a neutral position while at the new ride height. Very few get this right along with several other details.

If you don't want to spend the money on RockJock, then use ZJ steering.

 

[jjvw]

... Not sure what all is needed to raise body mounts, ...

You need a non-compressible 1.25" body lift like Black Magic Brakes or Savvy. Then you need the GenRight raised body mounts to get rid of half the body mount kit you just bought.

 

[tnjeepguy]

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-beginners-guide-to-lifting-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.733/

Chris had a good thread on what is needed to run 35's. Good info. D

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

You need a non-compressible 1.25" body lift like Black Magic Brakes or Savvy. Then you need the GenRight raised body mounts to get rid of half the body mount kit you just bought.

Thank you for all your input. I've been looking at all the components to go 4" springs and a body lift. If I go the SYE route, I can get rid of my tcase drop. The ideal plan is to get everything right without cutting anything. I think it's time for a parts list.

I'll post what I gather up if anyone would like to give me pros and cons or other suggestions.

 

[tnjeepguy]

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/lowest-lift-to-run-35s.32923/