LJ Rubicon still follows ruts in the road

Don't know what the opinions are on here about this product and not suggesting it as a cure for your ailment but tossing it out there for possible future reference. I added one of these to my LJR not long after purchasing and reading of the weakness of the Mercedes steering. In my case it was a cure for a non-problem on a low mile LJR.

https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/steering-braces/products/steering-brace-03-06-tj

Add: BBK is available as 15/16". That's what I did, but in retrospect wish I'd gone to 17" wheels for tire availability.
 
NOTNSUV said:
Don't know what the opinions are on here about this product and not suggesting it as a cure for your ailment but tossing it out there for possible future reference. I added one of these to my LJR not long after purchasing and reading of the weakness of the Mercedes steering. In my case it was a cure for a non-problem on a low mile LJR.

https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/steering-braces/products/steering-brace-03-06-tj
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Thanks, I may try that. Or just bite the bullet and upgrade to the big bore PSC.
 
toddsull said:
Thanks for your post. I've been looking at tire/wheel combos as I'm not loving the T/A KM3's. I'm thinking of going to a 17" wheel as more tires are available although I like the sidewalls on 15"'s. What would you recommend as a tire/wheel combo in size?


Thanks for the help! What size of tire are you running? My TF swaybar looks to be in the same position as yours but it definitely rubs...
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Is the axle properly centered? Does it rub on both sides?
 
NOTNSUV said:
Don't know what the opinions are on here about this product and not suggesting it as a cure for your ailment but tossing it out there for possible future reference. I added one of these to my LJR not long after purchasing and reading of the weakness of the Mercedes steering. In my case it was a cure for a non-problem on a low mile LJR.

https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/steering-braces/products/steering-brace-03-06-tj

Add: BBK is available as 15/16". That's what I did, but in retrospect wish I'd gone to 17" wheels for tire availability.
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A brace like that is for frame flex. Apparently tj frames crack near the steering box so rarely that the braces are considered a waste of money
 
Rickyd said:
A brace like that is for frame flex. Apparently tj frames crack near the steering box so rarely that the braces are considered a waste of money
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If one is at the point of needing a steering gear brace, then hydro assist is the proper solution.
 
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jjvw said:
If one is at the point of needing a steering gear brace, then hydro assist is the proper solution.
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Somewhat unrelated,but i wonder how much accelerated wear all that extra force from hydro assist places on the currectlync. What kind of lifespan have you heard of?
 
Rickyd said:
Somewhat unrelated,but i wonder how much accelerated wear all that extra force from hydro assist places on the currectlync. What kind of lifespan have you heard of?
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My instinct is that any added wear on the steering links is inconsequential and possibly non-existent. Because the assist is largely distributing the steering forces more evenly across the links compared to the single input from above from the steering gear.

This seems consistent with how the hydro assist also reduces stress on the track bar frame mount by moving a large portion of the steering reaction point from the track bar frame mount to the axle housing.

Prior to the hydro assist, I added a track bar mount brace, sort of similar to the weird one shown in the OP's pics, because I cracked the mount. The track bar brace did stiffen up the steering and overall handling a noticeable amount, which is why I kept it in place after the hydro went in.
 
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toddsull said:
I just went for a drive and under hard acceleration it pulls to the left and when I decelerate (no brake) it pulls back to the right. Braking is straight with no pull although it takes awhile. Big brake kit eventually which will require going up in size on the wheels I believe.
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So that is bump steer. When braking, the front dives down and pushes the drag link to the right, accelerate lifts the front, pulling the drag link to the left. Lifted, there is really no way to solve it.

As far as your Jeep following rut, that may be the tires. You said your son has a Jeep too… you cat try swapping wheels/tires temporarily just to rule that out… (I know it’s a PITA, but should be done…)
 
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jjvw said:
My instinct is that any added wear on the steering links is inconsequential and possibly non-existent. Because the assist is largely distributing the steering forces more evenly across the links compared to the single input from above from the steering gear.

This seems consistent with how the hydro assist also reduces stress on the track bar frame mount by moving a large portion of the steering reaction point from the track bar frame mount to the axle housing.

Prior to the hydro assist, I added a track bar mount brace, sort of similar to the weird one shown in the OP's pics, because I cracked the mount. The track bar brace did stiffen up the steering and overall handling a noticeable amount, which is why I kept it in place after the hydro went in.
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Could be. My instict tells me the greater force available from the ram is going to applied to the balljoints at the end of the draglink and tie rod. Higher forces equating to lower life
 
Artsifrtsi said:
So that is bump steer. When braking, the front dives down and pushes the drag link to the right, accelerate lifts the front, pulling the drag link to the left. Lifted, there is really no way to solve it.

...
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...except for a properly positioned track bar.

When the steering geometry is correct, the track bar and the drag link move left and right together as the suspension cycles, keeping the wheels pointed in the correct direction.
 
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Rickyd said:
Man you need to take new pics of your jeep,for varietys sake!
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My registration is up to date in this pic. :cool:

Rubi 2024 2.jpg
 
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toddsull said:
First, a big thanks to everyone that has commented and helped. Let me provide more information.
I bought the LJR 4 weeks ago and it barely made it to 30 mph before it was all over the road (got a great deal on it). We’ve replaced in the last 3 weeks the following:
  1. Rebuilt the RockJock Johnny joints on the control arms (no one lubed those joints in years)
  2. installed CorrectLync steering system
  3. Installed RJ adjustable trac bar
  4. Installed Spicer ball joints
  5. Installed Spicer U joints
  6. Installed Timken hub assembly
  7. Set toe-in at 1/8” and caster at 6.3 degree's
  8. Fox 2.0 shocks
  9. Running TA KM3 at 28 psi (I’ll try 26 and 25 psi today). Tires are half gone and they feel very “crunchy” - beyond that of mud tires which we’ve had on several vehicles. 35X12.5X15 on stock rims which rub at full turn.
  10. Unknown springs
There’s a misalignment somewhere and it goes into a jeep specialty shop Thursday for a complete body/fram/axle etc alignment. I’m hoping that will take care of the pulling to the right at speed and pulling to the right immediately on deceleration (stops straight).
My concern is that when I hit a dip or rise in the road, the front end feels like the tires are moving around and it telegraphs thru the steering. The steering is perfect with no dead spot or lag. Almost as if the front axle is shifting around. Hard to explain.
My thoughts are as follows (please add, comment etc. as I’m new to the LJR):
A) The LJR has a slight rake. About 1” from back to front. There’s a 1” spacer the PO added to the back springs. Could the rake cause the issue?
B) Could my KM3’s be bad? Build date is 2018.
C) The steering box was replaced by the PO and it feels very tight. Absolutely no play. Does the steering box need to be upgraded to handle the lift and tire combo? Is it allowing the tires to move (not holding the line)?
My uneducated guesses. Thanks everyone! This is driving me crazy….

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Have you rechecked the Torque on the control arm bolts?

You say when you get on the gas or let off the gas the Jeep feels like it's swerving.

Double check the Torque on the control arm bolts.

Lose bolts or worn bushings can cause that.
 
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Your frame side track bar end is at an extreme angle. It should be in a neutral position at ride height.

It looks like it could be binding at the limit of it's rotational movement. I don't know if this could cause your bump steer issue but should definitely be corrected.
 
g.hayduke said:
Your frame side track bar end is at an extreme angle. It should be in a neutral position at ride height.

It looks like it could be binding at the limit of it's rotational movement. I don't know if this could cause your bump steer issue but should definitely be corrected.
Click to expand...

The fix is to loosen the adjuster jam nut on the axle side and twist the bar until the frame side joint is better centered on the bolt.

It is unlikely any difference will be felt. But centering the range of motion is a good idea.
 
UPdate and cause. It's been an interesting week. The culprit was a blown ball joint from the currectlync to the pitman arm. Completley shot in two weeks. Since it was brand new, I didn't think of checking it at first... I called Summit hoping it might be warranteed (bought from Summit due to their shipping) and they were absolutely fantastic. Replaced the currectlync and overnighted it. Absolutely the best in customer service. No questions asked.
I installed the new currectlync and called up RockJock as I was curious how that joint could have failed so soon. And here's the story:
The ball joint to pitman arm is a specially engineered joint. It cannot be overlubed or it blows out the back casing which you can identify as it goes from a slight concave to a balloon out appearance. When I installed the original system, either I overlubed it or when I took it to the shop they lubed it with their powered grease gun. RJ stated that most shops do not understand that you CANNOT use a powered grease gun on these joints and will commonly blow them out. The joint can be rebuilt.
The LJR is driving great (or greater when I receive my steering dampner). Perfectly straight at 75 mph and a slight bump steer that should be corrected when I reinstall the steering dampner.
I must say, Summit and RockJock were absolutley fantastic to work with. Kuddos to them. Such a great experience (and no one said "hey, dumbshit..."). Lesson learned.
 
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