Looking for advice on lockers for my TJ

thanks for the feedback! Looks like Detroit Lockers are the cheaper option. Not sure if it’s cheaper because the product itself is inferior to the others or it’s just genuinely more affordable for whatever reason. I guess I’ll need to do my homework and compare them all.
The Detroit Locker, quality-wise, is not inferior to a selectable locker IMO. That is not the reason it is cheaper. It is a very good, solid and reliable option (assuming you're not driving on snow/ice).
(a lunchbox locker would be cheaper because it's inferior IMO, but not a Detroit Locker).

The Detroit Locker is not as "elegant" as a selectable locker. You essentially have no choice as to when it locks/unlocks vs a selectable, which you have to manually choose to turn it on/off.
Similar to an automatic transmission vs a standard, with regards to choice when it comes to which gear you are in.
Both transmissions do their job well, but some people have their personal preference.

Or another analogy could be a carbureted engine vs the latest fancy electronic sensor new engines. The Detroit Locker is, arguably, a bit simpler. Simpler may be one of the reasons it's cheaper.

The Detroit Locker also has a reputation of being a little "rough" around the edges. It is not uncommon to hear a loud "bang" when it engages/disengages...sometimes when you were not initially expecting it to. (Expect it on tight corners). It's not breaking - it's just louder. You'll get used to it. But you'll get questions from other people about it that you wouldn't get from a selectable locker engaging/disengaging.
This, IMO, is also not unlike a Jeep vs a car with regards to "roughness" when driving on the highway, or getting groceries, etc. The Jeep might be a little louder, bumpier than a car.

Again, worth noting, if you are expecting a lot of driving on snow/ice, I would warn against the Detroit Locker. (I'd suggest a TruTrac, like I have, or selectable lockers). Otherwise, it's a great choice, as long as you're aware of some of the "warts". (The TJ is a great choice, as long as you're aware of the bad gas mileage, noise, lack of storage space, ride quality, etc)

As for reliability - I'd put money on the Detroit Locker working longer over time over any selectable locker. (Then again, I live in a colder climate where air compressors/hoses/condensation freezing/etc have been an issue with selectable lockers). Selectable lockers (while still the pinnacle of lockers), have more variables that can go wrong with them. (Kind of like all the fancy electronics of the latest Jeeps vs TJ's or carbureted engines).

*I also have an Dana HP30 front axle. Theoretically something like 30% stronger when going forward, less chance of hitting the higher pinion, and, well, I have an emergency backup axle now and extra axle shafts for only $100. It made my swap easier, as I could drive around in my Jeep with my Dana 30 while my HP30 was being worked on.
 
Long arms work better than mid or short arms, the GM hose fixes splash back/slow fill and the front locker, not the rear, causes increased turning radius.

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I have not heard about this. Can you elaborate on the what and why?
High traction takes out the spiral gears that drive the limited slip. The pieces go through the diff and ruin just about everything. It is common to blow them up on the street with spirited driving around turns.
 
So having it locked (offroad) avoids this.
If it can happen on the street when it's always unlocked, then more than likely it will happen on the street based on percentage of time offroad. Then again, mine's not a daily driver, and I definitely drive it harder offroad than on.
Thanks for the info.
 
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So having it locked (offroad) avoids this.
If it can happen on the street when it's always unlocked, then more than likely it will happen on the street based on percentage of time offroad. Then again, mine's not a daily driver, and I definitely drive it harder offroad than on.
Thanks for the info.

The way I understand it, is it's really a shock and load issue. On the road you can control the load and shock more by not getting on the throttle hard, especially in the turns. Offroad, contolling them can be much more challenging, which is why it's best to keep it locked. I'm sure someone will jump in if this isn't correct.

Edit: Since seeing my 1st this Summer, I've now seen it twice and currently have a souvenir in my garage. As was said earlier, when it goes it takes out everything. At some point I'll take the differential apart, just to get a closer look at it.
 
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The way I understand it, is it's really a shock and load issue. On the road you can control the load and shock more by not getting on the throttle hard, especially in the turns. Offroad, contolling them can be much more challenging, which is why it's best to keep it locked. I'm sure someone will jump in if this isn't correct.

Edit: Since seeing my 1st this Summer, I've now seen it twice and currently have a souvenir in my garage. As was said earlier, when it goes it takes out everything. At some point I'll take the differential apart, just to get a closer look at it.
You've got it. Since it is gear driven, getting on it around corners on the street is really bad for them.