Well I already know that the springs are 2.5 inches from research on RC lift kits. But just making sure there isn't any spacers or anything that I'm not recognizing.Measure the springs at ride height. Factory was 12" front, 8" rear.
Do I measure the isolators as well? Or just the springs themselves? Just the springs are right around 14.5 so it seems about right.Are they actually giving your Jeep 2.5"? The actual lift height is entirely dependent on the Jeep's weight. RC can only guess what yours is.
I don't see any additional spacers.
How about the rears?Do I measure the isolators as well? Or just the springs themselves? Just the springs are right around 14.5 so it seems about right.
I find it strange that I have as much clearance as I do with just that much lift.2.25" and 1.75" lift. It isn't uncommon for a kit to have less lift in the rear in order to reduce the factory rake. Personally, I wanted to keep that in mine.
The bump stops are not extended on yours. One thing I can tell you is that your 33s will rub the front fenders at full flex without some BS extension. I've never set that up without a body lift in place, but it will require at least 2" in front. Less if there is a body lift. The rear needs some amount to protect the shocks. Subtract that extension from the space between the cup and axle pad and you'll see that you may not have as much clearance as you think you do.I find it strange that I have as much clearance as I do with just that much lift.
So now my plan sounds like I want 0.5 inch coil springs to get me to 2.75 in the front, then the 1.25 BL to get me to 4. Then what all parts would I need to keep that 4" inches of up travel?The bump stops are not extended on yours. One thing I can tell you is that your 33s will rub the front fenders at full flex without some BS extension. I've never set that up without a body lift in place, but it will require at least 2" in front. Less if there is a body lift. The rear needs some amount to protect the shocks. Subtract that extension from the space between the cup and axle pad and you'll see that you may not have as much clearance as you think you do.
A few posts back I mentioned that maintaining that factory 4" of up travel is a loaded statement. A lot goes into it.
So put on bump stop extensions to determine how much to lift my jeep?If it were me, I would set the bump stop extensions now. That will tell you how to adjust the front and rear ride heights to regain the suspension travels. Changing just the springs will not change the bump stops requirements.
It's actually a really good starting point. Afterwards, you'll know more about what is going on than most do and you'll know where to make the next set of moves.So put on bump stop extensions to determine how much to lift my jeep?
So is there something I should measure right now to determine how much up travel I have, that way I can add the right amount of extension to it to be perfect for a 4 inch lift?It's actually a really good starting point. Afterwards, you'll know more about what is going on than most do and you'll know where to make the next set of moves.
This is what the full process looks like.So is there something I should measure right now to determine how much up travel I have, that way I can add the right amount of extension to it to be perfect for a 4 inch lift?
Wait, do I have a body lift already?This is what the full process looks like.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2003-rubicon-with-a-million-questions.15371/post-247676
Read the full thread. There is some good bump stop discussion. All of it applies to your situation.
A quick and dirty method is to compare the measurement of the exposed shock shaft with the space between the cup and axle pad. That will tell you if the shocks are safe, but it doesn't tell you about other things.
Nope. That is stock. But those sliders stuck in there are creating an uneven load between the frame and body.Wait, do I have a body lift already?
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