Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Low Exhaust Back Pressure

staplesofficewar

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Sep 24, 2025
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Augusta, Ga
Might be chasing a non-issue - not sure. It has been this way since I got it - the jeep feels very sluggish. I had a 2.5 years ago and was always told to get the 4.0 as it was "fast for a jeep" .I tried some 0-60 times to test against *normal* stock times of 9-10 seconds. The jeep is fully stock at this point and the BEST i could manage was 12.64 and that was starting off in 2nd. So about 25% slower vs expected. 3.73 gears 30x9.5 stock tires. Now I know its "not built for speed", but I do think it indicates something off. Now could it be the 200K miles? Maybe. But with all the work that was done before and after I got it (last 10K miles - oil pump, timing chain, cam, lifters, push rods, plugs, etc) it really is in exceptional mechanical condition. It doesn't smoke, leak oil, etc. It runs 60 PSI oil pressure down the road, and 30-40 idle.

I suspected a cracked exhaust manifold because I could hear it. I tested with soap water and shop vac in reverse and found leaks on the gasket, as well as above the back mini cat. I tore it down to replace the gasket and inspect the manifolds closer. No cracks! New gasket and the mini cat connections are nice and tight - all verified by soap water and reverse vac. I thought this might help, but I didn't notice anything. Its quieter for sure, but performance wise feels like I'm dragging something.

Online said could be exhaust restriction. I checked back pressure in the exhaust system at both pre-cat O2 sensors. In both cases, there is almost no back pressure. it stays right at 0 at idle. And I might get .1 -.2 PSI with engine at 2900 RPM. So very low based on specs. I read this can actually be too low and might cause the sluggish feel as well since it prevents the exhaust from "scavenging" properly. I tested the gauge best i could - and a human and blow about 2 psi into a bottle (google) and that is what I can blow as well - so I suppose I am human after all.

There are no check engine lights.

Next steps, in my mind:

1. Inspect the main cat and muffler to see if there is anything in there. The mini cats looked OK - all ceramic was intact and present. But its possible the PO didnt realize the main one came apart.

2. Cylinder compression test. I did check the cooling system for combustion byproducts (CO2) and it was clear (head gasket check). Antifreeze is clear with no oil residue. Oil is good - no foam or water.

3. I just cleaned the Throttle body and idle air sensor. But during the back pressure test noticed the two O2 sensors are different - probably not an issue unless one is bad, but bad O2 sensors can cause it to be sluggish as well.

4. PO had timing chain replaced when the cam was replaced - possible timing issue - maybe a tooth or 2... I am not sure how detectable that would be. There have been no indications that this could be it.

5. Fuel rail pressure check

6. Swap injectors?

Watching videos online of stock acceleration in 4.0 wranglers makes me think I am not barking up the wrong tree... thoughts ideas or suggestions?
 
Given how often I've seen it be the case on this forum, I'm going to guess you've got clogged cats. Generally it's the two mini-cats in the down pipe.

I'd probably start there.

4.0s aren't fast, but with the stock tire size it should have some pep to it.
 
@speeding_infraction and @Chris thanks for quick comments.

I did the backpressure checks in the o2 ports above the mini-cats. If there was a restriction down the line, the pressure would build at that point (and any place before the restriction. The mini-cats looked OK when I had the intake / exhaust removed to replace the gasket.

I thought that this was a standard test procedure to test for restrictions? Here is a video showing the test and failure


Mine is much lower - barely gets off the zero mark. Here is mine.
. just uploaded so might take 5-10 mins to go live.
 
What is your fuel economy? That is a good indicator of something off in a stock rig. If it is below about 15 with mostly gentle highway driving there could be an issue

14.34 last check. I live in a fairly flat area - mostly 45-55+ driving. Its why i changed plugs, checked for exhaust leaks (aside from the ones i could hear)
 
If your exhaust is clear, maybe the air filter is clogged? Also check fuel pressure could be you have a failing or clogged fuel system component

ill scope the second main cat tonight when i get home. Air filter is new. one of my checks to do (above) is the fuel pressure. I have been running fuel system cleaner as well because of the mileage.
 
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You're chasing up the wrong tree with low backpressure. It's not a problem. Exhaust leaks - yeah you need to get those sorted. If you didn't do so, you also need to discharge the PCM to force it back into fuel learning mode.

The fuel economy on gentle driving around 55-65mph should be better. 15-17mpg over a tank with it running in really good condition and tires at higher pressure. Faster than that mpg goes down. Around town- that's up to you and you could probably get 9mpg driving badly.

You mentioned the O2 sensors being different brands and that does worry me a bit. NGK and NTK are the same mfg and fine if it's the right sensor in the right location. Bosch while an excellent mfg typically, doesn't work well with the peculiar Chrysler PCM. On a "dual bank" setup, the Chrysler PCM can "ignore" an O2 sensor that it thinks is out of spec. A wideband O2 could tell a different story, but I wouldn't waste you money on it.

You're driving a 20+ year old vehicle with a motor that needed the valvetrain rebuilt for some reason. You ever watch the old top gear episodes where they'd buy an old car and see how many horses it lost on the dyno? The 4.0L TJ isn't fast. It's adequate. I thought was slow when I bought mine new in 04. My perception hasn't changed 22 years later. The fun of driving it comes in other ways.

There are so many variables in TJ build specs that would meaningfully affect 0-60 that it is absolutely not a valid indicator. But you could also have a bunch of other stuff like a dragging parking brake or caliper, diff or transmission fluid out of spec...
 
ill scope the second main cat tonight when i get home.

Don't waste your time. You already know this isn't an issue because you don't have a backpressure issue.

If you really want to figure this out you're going to need live OBDII data for the O2 sensors and the STFT and LTFT.

Anything else and you're just blowing away your money with the parts cannon.
 
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You're chasing up the wrong tree with low backpressure. It's not a problem. Exhaust leaks - yeah you need to get those sorted. If you didn't do so, you also need to discharge the PCM to force it back into fuel learning mode.

The fuel economy on gentle driving around 55-65mph should be better. 15-17mpg over a tank with it running in really good condition and tires at higher pressure. Faster than that mpg goes down. Around town- that's up to you and you could probably get 9mpg driving badly.

You mentioned the O2 sensors being different brands and that does worry me a bit. NGK and NTK are the same mfg and fine if it's the right sensor in the right location. Bosch while an excellent mfg typically, doesn't work well with the peculiar Chrysler PCM. On a "dual bank" setup, the Chrysler PCM can "ignore" an O2 sensor that it thinks is out of spec. A wideband O2 could tell a different story, but I wouldn't waste you money on it.

You're driving a 20+ year old vehicle with a motor that needed the valvetrain rebuilt for some reason. You ever watch the old top gear episodes where they'd buy an old car and see how many horses it lost on the dyno? The 4.0L TJ isn't fast. It's adequate. I thought was slow when I bought mine new in 04. My perception hasn't changed 22 years later. The fun of driving it comes in other ways.

There are so many variables in TJ build specs that would meaningfully affect 0-60 that it is absolutely not a valid indicator. But you could also have a bunch of other stuff like a dragging parking brake or caliper, diff or transmission fluid out of spec...

thanks man. Yea the O2 sensors have different number of holes in the face of them. But looking at rock auto last night, it appears this might be normal - cylinder 1-3 has a different part number vs 4-6. Both upstream, so that might not be an issue Afterall.

The shop order from the PO indicated a seized lifter that wore a cam lobe. so they replaced the cam, lifters and push rods - no indication of rockers or valve work - which I thought was odd to not do with everything pulled down. They also did the oil pump and timing chain at the same time. since they replaced the oil pump, which isnt required when doing the cam, i figured it might be what caused the lifter failure, but that's all speculation.

I have replaced the diff and tranny fluid, so I know that all good. Just replaced the rear wheel cylinders due to one leaking on drivers side. I have not evailuated front discs but quick looks dont raise any alarms. I know when I have the front axle up, the tires rotate freely.

Thanks for the double checks. I might get two upsteam O2 sensors to throw in. I do have a ODB2 BT that I can record data on, what parameters would be ideal to record?
 
The shop order from the PO indicated a seized lifter that wore a cam lobe. so they replaced the cam, lifters and push rods - no indication of rockers or valve work - which I thought was odd to not do with everything pulled down. They also did the oil pump and timing chain at the same time. since they replaced the oil pump, which isnt required when doing the cam, i figured it might be what caused the lifter failure, but that's all speculation.

The lifters do sometimes just get stuck with age and there was probably some degree of neglect at some point in the 4.0Ls life. An oil change interval skipped, let it run low, who knows. The Melling replacement oil pumps are cheap and reliable and I'd have done that if I were at that point in a tear down with that number of miles on it. Wouldn't think twice.

The cam timing would be pretty darn difficult to screw up and I think it would feel more than just a little down if you were off by a tooth. It sounds like this was done right, but not for any performance gains, so there's no reason to believe one of the adjustable timing sets was used to shift the cam by a few degrees.

In the O2 data you are looking for the upstream O2 sensors to be between .150V and .750V in closed loop operation. They average target is .490V, but they are moving constantly.
They'll peg at 0.824V -0.845V at WOT once the power enrichment kicks in - about 12 seconds with the stock programming.

On the fuel side of things you are looking for long term fuel trim (LTFT) values between -5 and +5 in closed loop (partial throttle). The smaller the better. The STFT measure sent to standard ODBII can be weird, but again you're looking for single digits here most of the time in closed loop.

If for some reason you are seeing swings outside this range, or a high idle then I might suspect a leaking O ring on an injector or an issue with the injector being clogged somewhat.
 
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Back pressure is 100% a bad thing and there is no small amount your 4.0 "likes" or improves low end torque.

Hot oil pressure should be 12-18psi at idle and somewhere around 40-60'ish driving down the road. If you got higher readings than that, it wasn't warmed all the way up yet. Or you are running thicker oil than you should.

You have an LJ with bigger tires and 3.73's? Those 0-60 times seem right to me. Are you sure your speedometer is accurate?
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts