Lowest lift to run 35s?
- Thread starter jkowitz
- Start date
Mumblewood
TJ Enthusiast
06TJ35's
TJ Addict
I drive a 06 6 speed as well but not a rubi
. 35’s 4” Currie lift, 1.25” Savvy body lift, JB Conversion Super Short SYE, Tom Wood Drive shaft, 4:56 gearing. Oh and by the way I know who you are lol 
. 35’s 4” Currie lift, 1.25” Savvy body lift, JB Conversion Super Short SYE, Tom Wood Drive shaft, 4:56 gearing. Oh and by the way I know who you are lol 
Turns out, I don't have 4" of lift in the front like I thought, and I'm higher in the rear by about one inch.
I have to choose between lifting up the front 1" or dropping the rear 1".
My current front RJ springs give me roughly 3-1/4" of lift.
My current rear RJ springs give me about 4-1/4" of lift, and I can go to a shorter spring that will likely net around 3-1/4" to 3-1/2" of lift.
I have a 1.25" BL.
I believe this would put me at 4.5" of total lift in the front and 4.5"-4.75" of total lift in the rear. I don't recall there being any rubbing upfront when I hit the rocks after the lift was put on.
I'm running 35" STT PROs which is, IIRC, 35.4"x13.1"x15". If I can clear these, then I should be good for many other 35"s.
I don't have the experience or wisdom to know if it's better to have a total lift of 4.5" for lower COG or if a total of 5.5" is better for clearance out in the rocks. My guess is that lower is better, and I could always run spacers to gain height (if necessary).
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Worrying about COG is a misplaced concern. What you want is your stuff to fit together.
Ok, thanks for that info.
Can you expand on what you mean by "fit together"? I apologize for not understanding.
Too little lift and you will sacrifice suspension up travel. Too little suspension up travel results in the very same instability the LCoG crowd pretends they are preventing.
>Too little lift and you will sacrifice suspension up travel. Too little suspension up travel results in the very same instability the LCoG crowd pretends they are preventing.
Will definitely keep this in mind.
Out of curiosity, do you get the same suspension uptravel with a 2.5" lift + 1.5" TT as you do with a 4.0" lift?
LJR is mostly stock, don't know if I want to spend on the additional DC driveshaft and upgraded brakes for 4.0" + 35", or 2.5" + 33", and do a TT down the line + fenders to get to 35".
Will definitely keep this in mind.
Out of curiosity, do you get the same suspension uptravel with a 2.5" lift + 1.5" TT as you do with a 4.0" lift?
LJR is mostly stock, don't know if I want to spend on the additional DC driveshaft and upgraded brakes for 4.0" + 35", or 2.5" + 33", and do a TT down the line + fenders to get to 35".
It depends on the tire size. A suspension lift creates up travel. A body lift or highlines helps makes the room to use use that up travel.
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Ok this thread was old but I wanted to give my 2 cents bc I was asking the same before I lifted mine, 2005 Jeep Rocky Mountain Edition, had 32s on it before.
I went with a 3.25 RC lift, I was going tp put 33s on 20" wheels, but ran across a deal where I got 5 35s for 100 more. I messed up and bought E load range, very heavy range tires for such a small vehicle. I was still in the 33 mindset but the shop owner who did my lift suggested I could fit 35s in there no problem. The ride is somewhat worse, still bumpy as stock but now I am even more noticing it. Cant turn on a dime like I used too, its great just not as good as it used to be, my 4Runner has about the same steering radius. The fenders are fairly close on the rear, If I went rock crawling this would never work. This is my daily driver tho and really all my mudholes have dried up a long time go. I dont even know where to go to go in mud anymore. Steering is loose af. I can hold my steering wheel and it bounces and shifts on its own. Lots of steering corrections. I do have vibration when going thru 1st gear ...it smooths out after that and 5 mph. Not sure what's causing that bc Rocky Mountain Editions are supposed to have the slip yoke. I am planning a beefier steering kit, Currie, and also a 1.25 body lift..I will post pics soon
I went with a 3.25 RC lift, I was going tp put 33s on 20" wheels, but ran across a deal where I got 5 35s for 100 more. I messed up and bought E load range, very heavy range tires for such a small vehicle. I was still in the 33 mindset but the shop owner who did my lift suggested I could fit 35s in there no problem. The ride is somewhat worse, still bumpy as stock but now I am even more noticing it. Cant turn on a dime like I used too, its great just not as good as it used to be, my 4Runner has about the same steering radius. The fenders are fairly close on the rear, If I went rock crawling this would never work. This is my daily driver tho and really all my mudholes have dried up a long time go. I dont even know where to go to go in mud anymore. Steering is loose af. I can hold my steering wheel and it bounces and shifts on its own. Lots of steering corrections. I do have vibration when going thru 1st gear ...it smooths out after that and 5 mph. Not sure what's causing that bc Rocky Mountain Editions are supposed to have the slip yoke. I am planning a beefier steering kit, Currie, and also a 1.25 body lift..I will post pics soon
Also the torque is gone . I really want to regear. I was always in love with how much pep that 4.0 had. It used to make the front end pop up a bit.
Could also be those ridiculous 20" wheels causing your ride to suck.
I lost interest as soon as it became clear he wasn't at all interested in providing good tech for dad's channel.
Naw. Dey 20's. He keeps'em clean doh.
So is everyone in agreement that a 5 1/4 lift with 35's will guarantee you won't blow out a fender?.....with extended bump stops of course