Lubelocker and FelPro (versus RTV) for differential covers?
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
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I’ve never liked rubber or cork gaskets. In the past on most vehicles, I’ve used Felpro gaskets but I’m not positive what the material was. I know they were not rubber or cork. I would always put a thin layer of something like Permatex Ultra Black on both sides. It worked well and was easy to remove the gasket with minimal cleanup of a little RTV on the two mating surfaces.
I first used a Lubelocker on the Jeep’s transmission pan and it works great. So well that I’ve bought a Dana 30 and Dana 44 lubelocker for when the next time I have them open. I put one on my Silverado‘s transmission pan too.
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B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Pic isn’t mine but have one in the blue LJ and I’m getting two delivered tomorrow for the red LJ.
RTV works and is cheap. Every diff shop will recommend it. Blaine uses it. I use it, you shouldn't care much about that. Don't make cleaning that gasket surface more of an issue than it really is, just scrape and go. The only people that have issues are people that try to get it spotless, you don't need to. Stick with RTV like all experienced mechanics and stop wasting time cleaning the surface, a quick pass with a razor blade and you are done.
No, I meant Permatex. But there are 10,000 different kinds of Permatex these days, and I honestly don't know what's up with that. The Permatex I grew up with was a super dark brownish black glop with a peculiar odor and was most definitely not RTV - it stayed somewhat pliable. I dunno if the original is even made anymore - I haven't been able to find it.Permatex is RTV, I think you meant to say Lubelocker.
look at Permatex #3 for some old school goodness Zorba.
If you want true poor boy old school I used " Indian head gasket shellac " and old shoe boxes
to make gaskets with a ball peen hammer.
My biggest beef with rtv is waiting for it to cure. Lubelocker leaked a bit on my front hp30 so I'm back on rtv currently, but I'm thinking about the scrape and go method of leaving rtv in the low spots and then putting lube locker on top of that instead of getting it spotless like I did last time.
Sounds like time for an iron diff cover.Or you could just stop driving by braille.
I have both in use on our Jeeps, LL and RTV. They both work.
You just have to use your head on what application make sense in YOUR particular application.
It's no different than building your TJ for the type of wheelin you do.
Use what makes you happy.
You just have to use your head on what application make sense in YOUR particular application.
It's no different than building your TJ for the type of wheelin you do.
Use what makes you happy.
Who waits for it to cure? We certainly don't. But, we use Mopar gear oil specific RTV, single edge razor perpendicular to the face, scrape off the high spots, peel the boogers off, slather on a sixteenth thick layer and install the cover. As soon as the bolts are tight, we fill the diff.
We do the same with the Mopar ATF specific on trans pans. Soon as all the bolts are in, fill it and go.
Yep, if you are going to wheel where you tag the cover, the LL won't be long before it starts leaking.
the permatex gear oil-specific stuff says to wait 24 hours and I've never wanted to know bad enough to potentially have to redo it, so I took it at face value. But I'm not opposed to trying it out if it works for you.
Never hasn't worked but we don't subscribe to the spotless gasket surfaces either. Scrape off anything easy, leave the cured stuff in the low spots, peel off the boogers, seal it.
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