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Measure Once, Cut Twice: A Story of Excitement and Impatience
- Thread starter taylormade73
- Start date
Again I'm showing my lack of knowledge for TJ size BJ's but you said the ones that had been installed last year one was already sloppy. Are there BETTER BJ's for a TJ? Like the Alloy USA ones or G2 Axle or are these just overpriced joints and it's just better to stick with Spicer or Moog?
The acceptable tolerance for lower ball joint play is 1/16" vertical play which most develop in a very short number of miles. How easy the pin moves is not an indicator of wear or imminent failure. The upper pin floats up and down about 1/4" or so and the lateral play that is acceptable is less than .003" or basically no perceptible lateral play.
Not of high importance but the lack of dust shields move the unit bearing about .040 inward and that can cause issues with tolerance stacking and put the caliper saddles too far off center on the the rotor. Not often but sometimes you will have to clearance the pad clips by bending the little ends over tighter to keep the rotor from dragging on them.
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Good to know when I start working on my daughters TJ since she had a Dana 30.
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Give me a few. I already put the old Dana 44 in the crate the RJ44 camr in and it has tools and parts on top. I'm running to the store to get some hardened washers for the LCAs. I had the BMB washers on the old axles.
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Just couldn’t wait for me to get there! Lol Fortunately I was only there long enough to snap 2 breaker bars and not more.
I bought a RJ44 from Carbon about a year and a half ago. Has been handling 35s fine. I like the gray paint they use, If you need/wanted some its called Seymour Paint Cast Blast.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD8FP4K/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD8FP4K/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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Everything hooked back up (except stabilizer-doesn't fit in the bracket) and cycling suspension to check for clearance issues. Respect to @jjvw and others who properly check how things work together rather than just installing and going. Doing things right takes time and effort. It's so much easier to just slap it together.
Def need more bump and to pull the axle back a tad. Thought I was going to have issues with the track bar and the diff since it's quite a bit larger than the stock 44, but I don't. The shock bottoms out first.
Def need more bump and to pull the axle back a tad. Thought I was going to have issues with the track bar and the diff since it's quite a bit larger than the stock 44, but I don't. The shock bottoms out first.
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Also had to drill out the axle side track bar hole to 1/2" for the Currie big bolt to fit.
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Yes it does take a lot more time to sit there and cycle the suspension and check clearances and how things fit. But it looks like you are getting there and once you're done you'll know it was done correctly and won't have to worry about things not fitting or things hitting.
It is really looking good.
Those front shocks are slightly longer than the typical 4" lift shocks which is why you need some extra bump. I used a hockey puck.
The currie bump kit should have come with a metal 1" hockey puck you can put under the lower poly bump.
The currie bump kit should have come with a metal 1" hockey puck you can put under the lower poly bump.
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Rather than widen the bracket I used a flap disk to remove some sleeve and bushing material so my stabilizer will fit. Springs in as well. Not sure I like how close the passenger side spring is to the tower and the inner C.
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