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Measure Once, Cut Twice: A Story of Excitement and Impatience
- Thread starter taylormade73
- Start date
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Crated up really nice. I was not expecting that. Can't wait to run my last appt today so i can get started on the swap. I've waited 16 weeks for this.
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It's a shame that even though her inner C's are super thick, she can still only handle 35 inches. 
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Too impatient to wait for my helper tomorrow. Took the old Dana 44 out by myself tonight.
That axle is PURE sexyness. Could you have ordered different "C"s on the axle? I know it's to late for you at this point but if someone was ordering one do you know if you can spec a different "C"?
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I don't believe you can through Carbon, but it is a Currie housing and I believe you can customize through Currie.
I find it interesting that all these aftermarket companies sell these axles using the STOCK TJ style inner "C" instead of something stronger.
But since we're talking about this; is the issue with TJ BJ's the fact that they stretch out the holes for the BJ? Are the TJ size BJ's not able to handle 36-37" tires? I might be mistaken but I thought what I had read was things like axle tube strength or the "C"s getting stretched out or bending. But I don't remember it being the BJ's themselves.
But since we're talking about this; is the issue with TJ BJ's the fact that they stretch out the holes for the BJ? Are the TJ size BJ's not able to handle 36-37" tires? I might be mistaken but I thought what I had read was things like axle tube strength or the "C"s getting stretched out or bending. But I don't remember it being the BJ's themselves.
From what I understand, its the ball joints themselves. They wear prematurely with tires larger than 35s. Probably not enough bearing area in the joint or something. You might be able to get away with using some of those BJ replacement and some inner C stiffening, but the axles are also pretty narrow to be running 37's. So, as the axle articulates, the top of the tires get closer to the fender (the side that travels up). Larger diameter tires are going to be worse for this. 37's really need some extra width to get a good amount of articulation.
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I'm talking about aftermarket axles not STOCK TJ axles so the inner "C" is stronger already. As far as width goes I tend to disagree to a point. I have been running 37+" tires on a axle that is only about 1" wider than stock. I know the trend is to go wider as you go to a larger tire but the trails I run up here in the PNW are TIGHT and having a outside to outside tire width of more than 75" makes it very hard to get up some of the trails. Yes I know guys who are 80" wide and they have a very hard time.
I'm running 4" of back spacing on my rims also for reference.
We'll see what kind of articulation I can get with mine.
Okay learning more about them. I had 35" tires on my Dana 30 in my TJ before I swapped axles to my my HP44 so I haven't had to deal with TJ style BJ's in a long time.
How can you say you disagree with me on width, then follow up with your next sentence saying you're running wider than stock axles? I never said you needed 80" wide axles. Just wider than stock TJ.
I disagree with the idea that you need something like 65" WMS wide. I'm not much wider than stock. It's maybe a inch wider. And I said I disagreed to a point. I've caught hell from a lot of people for not going wider when I built this axle. I narrowed it to Wagoneer with for two main reasons. 1) To keep my track width as narrow as I could. 2) By going to Waggy width I can get new axles easier than if it was a custom width.
But back to the original point. It just seems strange to me that these aftermarket companies sell these axles as a UPGRADE in strength but then handicap them with weak outers. Why not use parts that would allow you to use stronger parts? I'm sure some of it is becasue people buy these axles but still want to use the knuckles/uni-bearings they already have.
I thought your new tires were larger than 37's and it isn't articulation that is the problem, it is getting the steering to full lock. The only reason we build wider is to get full steering and keep the tires from going hard into the frame, links and sway bar arms.
No the new tires are just shy of 37". Yes I always forget about being able to get full lock to lock without hitting the frame or control arms.
The IROCK's say they are a 36x13.5x16.5 but they are almost as tall as the 38x12.5x16.5 SX tires I had.
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Got unit bearings and knuckles on the new axle assembly. Had a helluva time getting axle nuts loose. Another 4wp issue of many since I let them regear last Fall; they must've used red Loctite and torqued the shit out of it with an impact. I used a MAP torch on the nut and still snapped 2 breaker bars on the passenger side. Finally with enough heat and my air impact I got it loose. The driver side came off easy peasy with just the impact. As Blaine says: "Stop paying other people to fuck your shit up."
Anyway, got them off then on the new axle. Had to take a break after that. It's sitting on jack stands under the front right now. Man this axle is beef compared to the stock. Btw, they also replaced all the ball joints last Fall with the regear. Well, the driver's side lower is showing signs of early failure-easy to move with little resistance. That's with only 35's for 10k miles. I can see 37's chewing up some TJ BJs.
Anyway, got them off then on the new axle. Had to take a break after that. It's sitting on jack stands under the front right now. Man this axle is beef compared to the stock. Btw, they also replaced all the ball joints last Fall with the regear. Well, the driver's side lower is showing signs of early failure-easy to move with little resistance. That's with only 35's for 10k miles. I can see 37's chewing up some TJ BJs.
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Also, there is some odd wear on the old driver's side axle shaft that is not present on the passenger side. I did hear a pop on the highway before I parked it a few months ago. When I opened the diff it looked and sounded like it was coming from my spider gears. Got any ideas what would wear grooves into a stock axle shaft like this?
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