Just in case someone DOES want to spend some coin...
https://www.zoro.com/dynabrade-type...znD4Y6NEFRTKXNGirMBoCBZoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Metal cutting tools: what's really the best option?
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
Just in case someone DOES want to spend some coin...
https://www.zoro.com/dynabrade-type...znD4Y6NEFRTKXNGirMBoCBZoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Mine is a die grinder. The smaller one. I wouldn't trade it and when it dies, I'll buy another one just like it.
https://www.grainger.com/product/25...VIButBh0iJAclEAQYBiABEgLV2_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I’ve got an air die grinder. I’ve never attached a cut off wheel to it, so I’ll figure that out and get a Jimmy’s 3” cut off wheel. I plan to do it when I do the rear frame tuck, so the tub will be raised.
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After you do attach the cut off wheel to it, you'll figure out in about 5 seconds why I use the Dynabrade. I don't see the Jimmy's wheels in stock so I sent over an email to find out if and when.I’ve got an air die grinder. I’ve never attached a cut off wheel to it, so I’ll figure that out and get a Jimmy’s 3” cut off wheel. I plan to do it when I do the rear frame tuck, so the tub will be raised.
Dang it...thats what I get for not looking at the site more carefully. Air Grinder is different than air die grinder. I knew what I was looking for, and just didn't look closely enough.
I've been using the M12 Milwaukee 90 degree. Kinda wish I had spent a little more and gotten a good air powered one. The Milwaukee isn't bad, but its a not the most powerful I've used, either.
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Depending on how much you work with metals it can be nice to have lots of choices available. As far as die grinders I have a straight and right angle, both air (not as nice as that Dynabrade though) , and a variable speed electric Metabo that comes in pretty handy https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-GE-950-950-watt-Variable/dp/B00FDLBAPA?tag=wranglerorg-20 in fact I use that one more than the air models. Mine is the lower speed model, they make a high speed as well.
For cutting with out restricted access you can't beat a right angle grinder with a quality cutting wheel, the cheap, thick wheels make a big mess when they wear down quick and they throw a lot more crap on your arms (and in your lungs for those who won't wear a respirator). Some of the DeWalt 4.5" grinders and the Makita 18 volt grinders will take a 5" wheel, these 5" wheels by Makita are great:
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-10-Pack-Aggressive-Stainless/dp/B07SD9LC8N?tag=wranglerorg-20
I like them every bit as well as Sait, Walter and Pferd, maybe more due to their size, and only 3/64" thick.
I have a sheet metal nibbler too but I prefer a grinder on sheet metal for straight, distortion free cuts.
Don't use the torch much anymore either except for the occasional stuck bolt.
The band saw makes for nice straight tubing cuts and the old Sawzall comes in handy for hard to access stuff that you're trying to destroy.
Then there's the cold saw, I pretty much abandoned that in favor of the band saw. I should probably sell it.
For cutting with out restricted access you can't beat a right angle grinder with a quality cutting wheel, the cheap, thick wheels make a big mess when they wear down quick and they throw a lot more crap on your arms (and in your lungs for those who won't wear a respirator). Some of the DeWalt 4.5" grinders and the Makita 18 volt grinders will take a 5" wheel, these 5" wheels by Makita are great:
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-10-Pack-Aggressive-Stainless/dp/B07SD9LC8N?tag=wranglerorg-20
I like them every bit as well as Sait, Walter and Pferd, maybe more due to their size, and only 3/64" thick.
I have a sheet metal nibbler too but I prefer a grinder on sheet metal for straight, distortion free cuts.
Don't use the torch much anymore either except for the occasional stuck bolt.
The band saw makes for nice straight tubing cuts and the old Sawzall comes in handy for hard to access stuff that you're trying to destroy.
Then there's the cold saw, I pretty much abandoned that in favor of the band saw. I should probably sell it.
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Agree 100%. I would add that a quality jigsaw (I use the M18) is an essential tool for me up to 1/8" thick for long cuts or 3/16" thick for short runs (that's about its limit). Quality blades that are right for the job is critical. Another addition is a quality pneumatic body saw. I'm surprised by its capabilities. I used to say that a cheap Harbor freight one was fine, but that was when I used it occasionally. It lasted 20 years that way, but as soon as I used it extensively for a few projects, it failed pretty quickly. The quality one I replaced it with (mid-range, not top-quality) does great.
Regarding plasma cutters, I've read some of the comments on this forum, but I do find it pretty useful (very fast!) for curvy cuts when used with a custom steel template. See this recent post in my build thread for how I used templates on the rear frame raise/bumper replacement project.
Speaking of plasma cutting, I just bought Hypertherm's Flush Cut kit for my torch. Has anyone used that for cutting existing brackets off the frame? I'm hopeful, but skeptical, that it will work and make the job much quicker. I'll soon put it to the test.
I have an air body saw. It isn't the cheap one and it is like most things. When you need it, very little else works in that spot. That said, no other tool I own ruins blades faster.
I have and use a plasma cutter and have for a very long time. My position is based on them being just like every other tool. They are not a single point solution to all your metal working needs that far too many folks make them out to be, they have their place, that's it. They are pretty good at what they do and really suck at everything they don't.
I do not have that kit, I just have the extended nozzle for getting into tighter spots like control arm and shock mounts on axles. I have cut tons of brackets off of the frame with the plasma. I can see the arc and molten metal fairly clearly so I control the cut depth that way and just walk down the bracket side of the weld and half of the weld. What I don't like is having to make sure ALL of the dross is gone before welding. Any dross you weld over will booger the weld.
Looking forward to your report of how well that flush cut kit works.
That's odd - I really haven't noticed that with mine. However, maybe I just ruin blades on every saw more quickly? (that's a serious comment - I'm naturally an impatient, slow-learner when it comes to fabrication)
My plasma experience is very new (I've had it a couple years and haven't used it extensively), and I've experienced the dross issue (both trying to weld over it and removing it). It definitely increases production time appreciably, and I didn't initially consider that. I've read the Hypertherm manual (cut charts in the back) more for guidance, but cut speed with a hand torch is pretty hard to gauge and adjust - "one-Mississippi, two-Mississippi..."
Me, too! My hope is that it'll cut close to the frame fairly cleanly, and a flapper disc will clean up the leftovers/dross quickly. We'll see. It'll show up in my build thread soon, I hope.
I'm usually cutting something dumb like the panel in front of the gas filler neck and trying to stay close to the edge. I'm flexing the blade and as soon as I even think about not cutting deep enough, the end of the blade hits the panel which turns it into a nice S shape. A few times of that and they don't stay very straight.
My plasma experience is very new (I've had it a couple years and haven't used it extensively), and I've experienced the dross issue (both trying to weld over it and removing it). It definitely increases production time appreciably, and I didn't initially consider that. I've read the Hypertherm manual (cut charts in the back) more for guidance, but cut speed with a hand torch is pretty hard to gauge and adjust - "one-Mississippi, two-Mississippi..."
Me, too! My hope is that it'll cut close to the frame fairly cleanly, and a flapper disc will clean up the leftovers/dross quickly. We'll see. It'll show up in my build thread soon, I hope.
You really need to use the flap discs for their intended purpose which is minor non critical stock removal and blending. If you try to remove a bit of weld that is left with most of them, the flaps roll over the high spot and gouge into the base material on either side, by design, they are mostly for blending. There are some with flaps laid flatter that do a little better but nothing is better than a sanding backing pad with some good fibre discs.
The hardest thing for me to teach folks is not to chase the gouge. They will sand it and if it is deep enough, I'd wind up with a giant divot that goes all the way through the frame. Hit it with a fibre disc, knock it flat to the frame, then fill the gouges and sand them down to flush.
Ah, yes - ruining by bending (I was assuming ruining by dulling). They do have that issue. I have the same problem occasionally with jig saws and recip saws, but I agree the body saw is the worst.
And that is why I love this forum. Excellent learning opportunities! I’ve experienced the gouging (not chasing it, though - I was coherent enough to stop), but I wasn’t observant enough to realize why. However, I don’t know what you mean by a “sanding backing pad with some good fibre discs”. I not sure I’ve ever been exposed to those.
I wasn't aware of the "HyAccess" kit. I just ordered it for the mid-arm and outboarding coming up.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9QXD9F?tag=wranglerorg-20
Those on your angle grinder with some fibre discs.
Not the best price I've found but they show up pretty fast when needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Cubitron-33413-Abrasive-Fibre-Disc/dp/B00HKZHHPE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Just remember, like all plasma tips, it is a consumable so only use that expensive little bastard when necessary.
edit- that said, I don't use a plasma when I do outboards. The cut clean up takes longer, far longer than just doing the work with a cut off disc in an angle grinder and the Dynabrade.
double edit- exception being the lower shock mounts on the rear axle.