Good luck getting 12” shocks on a 3.5” lift without a lot of modification. Why choose Krawler arms with a heim joint when you can spend the same and get a much better joint?
Metalcloak vs Rock Krawler short arm lift on 06 LJ?
- Thread starter dRon
- Start date
I have a Rock Krawler 2” lift with stock control arms. I really like my RK lift on my LJ. I will probably continue to use RK. It works well for me.
I appreciate all the inputs. You guys had me worried. I looked it up. The RK suspension I purchased (before I joined this forum), uses their Pro-Krawler joints. It is the X-Factor 2.0. Here is a description of the Joint from their website:
The Pro Krawler Joint is a revolutionary joint manufactured with the tightest tolerances for ultimate consistency. The chromoly joint housings are heat treated for increased strength and then zinc plated for corrosion resistance. The hard chrome plated inner ball is machined from billet 52100 steel for strength and durability. The inner raceway provides wear resistance, high frequency vibration isolation and durability. The body and clevis mounting width ratio of the Pro Krawler Joint is a key design feature which provides up to +/-30 degrees of misalignment. That’s a total of 60 degrees of misalignment per side (see illustration below)
*for most applications
I do like that it is grease-able and they have a lifetime warranty.
Yes, I probably don't need the track bar bracket and drop pitman arm for 2.0 inches, however, it can be used if I decide to go with their 3.5 inch springs. All of the control arms are adjustable. It has springs, shocks and brake lines for longer travel/articulation.
Again, while I appreciate the comments, I see no reason to cancel the order.
The Pro Krawler Joint is a revolutionary joint manufactured with the tightest tolerances for ultimate consistency. The chromoly joint housings are heat treated for increased strength and then zinc plated for corrosion resistance. The hard chrome plated inner ball is machined from billet 52100 steel for strength and durability. The inner raceway provides wear resistance, high frequency vibration isolation and durability. The body and clevis mounting width ratio of the Pro Krawler Joint is a key design feature which provides up to +/-30 degrees of misalignment. That’s a total of 60 degrees of misalignment per side (see illustration below)
- Tight tolerances for ultimate consistency
- Heat treated & zinc plated chromoly joint housing
- Wear resistance, vibration isolating raceway
- Industry leading +/-30 degrees of misalignment*
I do like that it is grease-able and they have a lifetime warranty.
Yes, I probably don't need the track bar bracket and drop pitman arm for 2.0 inches, however, it can be used if I decide to go with their 3.5 inch springs. All of the control arms are adjustable. It has springs, shocks and brake lines for longer travel/articulation.
Again, while I appreciate the comments, I see no reason to cancel the order.
What several are saying is that you don’t want a drop pitman arm at 2”, 3.5” or even 4-5”. You’d need to be in the 6” range for that. It will just cause you problems. Same for the front track bar relocation bracket. That would be a limiter and not necessary. The fact they include that stuff in the kit is a warning sign. I’m not telling you to cancel your order, just that you could get more for your money IMHO.
X2 to the recommendations for a Currie or Savvy lift if you're going to be spending that kind of $$$. And as above, you do NOT want to install a dropped Pitman arm which will just cause bump steer.
I didn't really know about Currie or Savvy til I joined this forum.
They list the kit on their website for $2900. 4WP had it for $2600. I found an online coupon and got it through 4WP for $2300. Seems like a lot of good hardware for that and it comes with an abuse proof lifetime warranty.
I am listening to you folks and will not install the drop pitman combined with the trackbar relocation bracket. I am going to contact them to see what they say about it.
The odds are not good that whoever answers the phone will know anything about steering geometry and why/when/when-not a dropped Pitman arm is needed or not needed.
He'll likely just say if it's in the kit it needs to be installed. There are several companies like Rough Country and Skyjacker that still include dropped Pitman arms in their TJ kits only because older leaf spring Jeeps like the CJ an YJ Wrangler needed them. The TJ does not with the improved/different factory steering geometry.
Install it, wheel it, Replace it when it breaks. In the end, education cost something. Maybe it will work fine for you, maybe not. There are people here trying to help with that process, so your education won't be quite as expensive. Not everyone needs the best suspension or joints either. If you just use the jeep for a fun weekend vehicle or even as a daily, your not going to push the joints as much and they probably last longer.
I will say, 2400 or whatever you paid is pretty expensive for a 2" lift. What are your long term goals? You could piece together a well performing 2" lift for much less money. The control arms, while nice, are not necessary. A dropped pitman and trackbar mount are definitely not necessary, even at double the lift height. When I see companies including that kind of stuff in their kits, it calls into question the rest of the design.
I will say, 2400 or whatever you paid is pretty expensive for a 2" lift. What are your long term goals? You could piece together a well performing 2" lift for much less money. The control arms, while nice, are not necessary. A dropped pitman and trackbar mount are definitely not necessary, even at double the lift height. When I see companies including that kind of stuff in their kits, it calls into question the rest of the design.
Please don't get fixated on the 2 inches of lift. It is not about the lift, it's all about articulation and travel. Stock arms are not going to cut it.
If I am going to screw with the suspension on my Jeep, then I want one that is a complete design with high quality components. From my discussions with them, that's just what they did. I know the trackbar and pitman arm are a question that I will discuss with them on Monday. Fab shops near me have had very good experience with these kits.
This kit also allows me to go to the 3.5 in springs if I want more height.
Below is the info on the kit. I can hear the comments now on the tire size info. I am at 31s now and may go to 33s.
System Benefits:
- Complete Bolt in System
- Excellent Highway Ride and Handling
- Greatly Improved Off-Road Ability
- Adjustable Lower Control Arms Front and Rear
- In Vehicle Adjustable Front and Rear Upper Arms
- Triple Rate Coil Springs
- RRD Spec Twin Tube Shocks
- Pro Front Sway Bar Disconnects
- Allows for up to 33 inch Tires (OEM Fenders)
- Allows for up to 35 inch Tires (Flat Fenders)
- Allows for up to 37 inch Tires (High Line Fenders)
- Abuse Proof Lifetime Warranty on All Hard Parts
- Upgradeable to any other Rock Krawler System
- (4) Triple rate coil springs
- (2) 9.8 inch Travel RRD Spec Twin Tube Front Shocks (Collapsed Length: 14.4 inch)
- (2) 9.8 inch Travel RRD Spec Twin Tube Rear Shocks (Collapsed Length: 15 inch)
- (1) Front high misalignment/adjustable track bar made from 1.25 inch solid alloy steel
- (4) Adjustable lower control arms made from 1.625 inch solid alloy steel
- (4) In vehicle adjustable front and rear upper control arms made from 1.25 inch solid alloy steel
- (2) Pro adjustable front sway bar disconnects
- (3) Long travel stainless steel brake lines
- (2) Front sway bar link straps
- (1) Front track bar relocation bracket
- (1) Drop pitman arm
- (1) Rear track bar relocation bracket made from 3/16 inch laser cut steel
Notes:
- Includes all hardware and detailed instructions
- Typical wheel fitment for a 12.5 inch wide tire is a 15x8 with 3.75 inches of backspacing
At that lift height, they’re actually some of the best. Believe it or not after looking at the shovel, the stock arms are surprisingly well engineered. They made it so the arm itself flexes (with some in the joint) as opposed to just the joints.
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Your set on the rock krawler kit so I think you should get it. Will the joints wear out? Who knows, after reading the MC Vs Johnny joint debacle, it's hit or miss. You can always replace the heims with Johnnys. I'd probably piece together the lift components separately (shocks, springs, no extended pitman) like the others have said.
Imo, I'd rather find out and be the test monkey and try out a different kit long arm or short arm suspension and have to replace it later on. Atleast I won't have that itch or "I wonder if" thought. I'm pretty sure these kits satisfy 92% of customers.
Imo, I'd rather find out and be the test monkey and try out a different kit long arm or short arm suspension and have to replace it later on. Atleast I won't have that itch or "I wonder if" thought. I'm pretty sure these kits satisfy 92% of customers.
I'm not fixated on the 2" of lift. You are underestimating the amount of articulation the factory arms give you. You also can't do all that much articulation with two inches of lift. The shocks you can fit in that size of a lift don't give you that much travel. If you want 3.5 inches of lift, great. Do it now, not in stages.
I did 2” lift with stock CA’s for a long time. I eventually bent two of them, but I was crawling on rocks the size of the White House. They are a great design. The C channel allows the arm to twist, relieving any stress on the mounts. I would have never left them unless I went to 3” lift and TT, so I needed adjustable CA’s to adjust the pinion(s).
You’ll be fine, but your adjustable arms will basically be stock length with 2” lift and you won’t/can’t get anymore articulation.
Moab 2019 33’s and Stock Arms
Wolf Caves 2019 33’s and Stock Arms
Hidden Falls 2018 33’s and Stock Arms
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