Midnight LJR Build

bobthetj03 said:
Painters are like alcoholics, they need the chemical fix. Paint thinner is a dangerous thing.
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I think it is the other way around. Guy is sitting in 12th grade study hall contemplating career choices that have the job description of lazy, low output, lack of total honesty, and a strong desire to get a job that makes all of those pluses. I know, I'll go paint shit for a living. No one expects us to get after it, tell the truth, or work hard.
 
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My guess:
Rear outboard, front towers, new Fox shocks, properly cycled suspension with every fraction of an inch of travel squeezed out, PSC Hydro assist w/cooler
Paint Work; Trail doors, half doors tub corner armor, tub sliders
powder coat; bumpers, sliders

detail work; put all the fasteners in the bumper plates, proper fitment of armor
are those Method Race Wheels part of the teaser? Some 101’s maybe? with some MT’s?
 
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mrblaine said:
I think it is the other way around. Guy is sitting in 12th grade study hall contemplating career choices that have the job description of lazy, low output, lack of total honesty, and a strong desire to get a job that makes all of those pluses. I know, I'll go paint shit for a living. No one expects us to get after it, tell the truth, or work hard.
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This is why I got out of that line of work 15 years ago. Things were not going to get better.
 
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DrDmoney said:
detail work; put all the fasteners in the bumper plates,
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Missed this one the first time through. Not possible once you drill the lower hole out to 5/16". The fastener can't stick through the inside of the bumper more than a thread or two. So, you have to pay attention and drill that hole so it can be tapped to 5/16" and then use a very short screw. I put a very thin jam nut on it and that was still too much.
 
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mrblaine said:
Missed this one the first time through. Not possible once you drill the lower hole out to 5/16". The fastener can't stick through the inside of the bumper more than a thread or two. So, you have to pay attention and drill that hole so it can be tapped to 5/16" and then use a very short screw. I put a very thin jam nut on it and that was still too much.
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Is this only true for a swayloc or would the same go for an antirock? Read earlier in the thread that the bolt was hitting the swayloc. Good thing I read this before I drilled out my holes out.
 
mrblaine said:
Missed this one the first time through. Not possible once you drill the lower hole out to 5/16". The fastener can't stick through the inside of the bumper more than a thread or two. So, you have to pay attention and drill that hole so it can be tapped to 5/16" and then use a very short screw. I put a very thin jam nut on it and that was still too much.
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After saying it wasn't possible, I contemplated on it some and then came up with a solution that worked. Timesert, STI tap for a helicoil, tap the hole, put the insert in backwards so the shoulder is on the inside. Tighten that down with retaining compound, trim a few threads off on the armor side, oversize the hole in the armor to fit over the insert, install shortened screw. Works perfectly, lots of steel thread, shoulder bottomed out on the inside for extra pull out resistance.
 
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Now that Mike is on his way, I'll toss one up so you can see what he'll see when he gets here.
DSC_5330.JPG
 
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That looks amazing so far @Midnight LJR. I see you went with the Vision-X light cannons. I had those on mine and really liked them, especially the ability to use difference colored lenses, as well as lenses with different light output patterns.

What wheels are those? From that angle they look like Method 305s.
 
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Wow. That's what mine hopes to be one day, with some minor appearance changes to my liking.

Well done @mrblaine and thank you for getting my brake pads shipped asap!
 
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