I just did a 2" spacer lift it came with a 1" differential drop should I change that with a motor mount lift its on a 2001 sport 4.0L 3 speed automatic
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Motor mount lift or differential drop
- Thread starter todd.bell.90857
- Start date
I assume you meant to say transfer case drop?? In my case I chose a motor mount block vs the tc drop so I could keep as much belly clearance as possible since I am on 31's. You can go either direction depending on your needs. FYI, I used JKS 1" blocks, 80.00 on Amazon.
If you use a 1" MML you probably would not need the 1" TCase drop. The MML is a superior way to go to keep your tummy clearance. As Rob said, you can keep the stock MM's and use a block that lifts then 1" or you can get all new MML's like Brown Dog for $115. The advantage to the Brown Dog is they are beefier mounts for off-roading. If you're not going to do that just go with the blocks...
You would likely only need 1/2" to 5/8" of transfer case skidplate drop which can be achieved with washers between the frame and skidplate placed around each bolt. Due to a depression in the skidplate you would however require probably 3/4" or 13/16" stack of washers to actually drop the t-case 1/2". A 1" MML would do it too though it's more difficult to install and you really need a helper to do that.
If you install the t-case drop kit or washers, remember to support the skidplate in the center with a jack and don't remove all six bolts at once. That makes it too easy for the skidplate to shift out of position and make it harder to get the bolts back in. Instead, leave the bolts threaded in loosely on one side and remove the other side's bolts. Insert the spacers or washers and loosely thread the bolts in then remove the other side's bolts.
If you install the t-case drop kit or washers, remember to support the skidplate in the center with a jack and don't remove all six bolts at once. That makes it too easy for the skidplate to shift out of position and make it harder to get the bolts back in. Instead, leave the bolts threaded in loosely on one side and remove the other side's bolts. Insert the spacers or washers and loosely thread the bolts in then remove the other side's bolts.
That's just what I was thinking it just looks funny underneath. Well back to Amazon it's only money. Thanks very much
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
derekmac
TJ Addict
Yes, but you will have to re-position your fan shroud by raising it about 1" to avoid the fan hitting the shroud. I currently have this setup. Next year I will add the BL. At that time I'll put the shroud back at stock location since the BL will correct the offset made by the MML.
It's easiest if you do both at the same time, but I wasn't sure at the time if I wanted a BL.
I did it with the 2.4/6 spd. It was a tight fit and took a bit of work to weasle the blocks in there. There is about 3/4" clearance between the bell housing and tunnel afterwards.
Edit: the 2.4 runs an electric fan so no need to move anything.
The OP has the 4.0. The two engines are different regarding the shroud. I'm sure @Rob5589 could elaborate on this point if desired.
derekmac
TJ Addict
Ok, for some reason I was thinking that there wasn't enough room to lift the engine without a BL.
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Brown Dog even sells a 1.5" and 2" MML. Of course, these have special applications, but a piece of play dough rolled up and placed on the highest part of your engine then closing the hood will tell you how much clearance you have there. The other issues are underneath at the bell housing and tunnel as Rob mentioned. Every TJ is different again!
I didn't think there would be looking at it. The instructions even say a bl is needed. I just went for it since I had the blocks and had nothing to lose but some time.
Similar threads
