My Outboard Project

Brianj5600

Brianj5600

TJ Expert
Joined
Jul 4, 2018
Messages
3,358
Location
Middle Tennessee
I have been reading a lot and and have a few questions from different threads, some here, and other boards. I heard a few times no 2 OBs are the same and i will cycle to verify everything works together. I am just looking for starting points.

On JF there was discussion the lower mount welded in the back of the LCA mount. It looks very tidy, but I don't think it would work with disc brakes. If anyone has a pic from the back of the lower shock mount on a disc Dana 44 I would appreciate if you could post it.

Should the lower shock bolt be 90 degrees to the shaft at ride height?

I've seen a couple here that rebuilt the TB mount. The only pictures I've seen only show it from the outside. It is hard to understand how it was built from that angle. Any pics that show better how it was built would be helpful.

Where does the upper mount end up in relation to the frame rail? Not height, but outboard of the frame or centered?

Thanks

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I'll take @mrblaine, @jjvw, and @Alex01 in this for you since they've all done this project.

Blaine of course has probably done so many he could do them in his sleep at this point.
 
We beveled the edges on my shock spacers so they allow just a bit more angle when the axle is full stuff/droop.

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The trackbar bracket--we used the wall of the OE mount that was facing the front of the wheel well. Hacked the poly mount a bit so we could weld the rearward side on (distance was the with of the trackbar joint). Then boxed it in on the front
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The poly tower gets recessed into the frame. Set maybe a 1/4" or less to the the rear wall of the frame
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mrblaine said:
...The lower mount is set with the mock up shock. If you have the later 44, there is a friction weld at the outer end. The outboard side of the mount butts up against that. The up and down angle is set with the mock shock. If you do it that where, the shock is in the middle of the misalignment range and there is no need for monkeyshines with the spacers...
Click to expand...

I guess the 2 rings are the friction weld? I would need to trim the LCA mount and slide the ear between the LCA and the friction weld? No interference with the shock shaft?

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mrblaine said:
I use a piece of rectangular tube to make the new track bar mount for the frame side.
View attachment 232456


I butt it up to the back of the outboard mount. You don't have to leave it long like I did above. The tube is 2 x 3 x .188 wall which is the perfect inside width for the Currie ends. The top is coped to fit up around the little tab at the forward edge of the gas tank crossmember. That edge and the forward face of the mount line up to put the trackbar right back where it used to be - about 3/4" of length.

I slice off one 2" side to give me the U shape, cope the end to fit around the angled tab and then touch the crossmember on the sloped edge of the little valley. Once I have that done and fitting so the mount is vertical, then I use the joint to lay out the hole so there is some space at the back of the U for the body and just a small amount above the body. Those two dimensions determine the hole location. We cut about 3/4" off the threaded tube to shorten the bar.
Click to expand...
That is so nice... You are a master of your craft.
 
Brianj5600 said:
On JF there was discussion the lower mount welded in the back of the LCA mount. It looks very tidy, but I don't think it would work with disc brakes. If anyone has a pic from the back of the lower shock mount on a disc Dana 44 I would appreciate if you could post it.
Click to expand...
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mrblaine said:
I use a piece of rectangular tube to make the new track bar mount for the frame side.
View attachment 232456


I butt it up to the back of the outboard mount. You don't have to leave it long like I did above. The tube is 2 x 3 x .188 wall which is the perfect inside width for the Currie ends. The top is coped to fit up around the little tab at the forward edge of the gas tank crossmember. That edge and the forward face of the mount line up to put the trackbar right back where it used to be - about 3/4" of length.

I slice off one 2" side to give me the U shape, cope the end to fit around the angled tab and then touch the crossmember on the sloped edge of the little valley. Once I have that done and fitting so the mount is vertical, then I use the joint to lay out the hole so there is some space at the back of the U for the body and just a small amount above the body. Those two dimensions determine the hole location. We cut about 3/4" off the threaded tube to shorten the bar.
Click to expand...
Follow those instructions, don"t do this:

CLEANER BETTER STRONGER

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Progress pictures. Flip the calipers, mount the lowers as Blaine mention. Cycle,cycle,cycle

Note: Listen to Blaine on key points and don’t try mounting an antirock in front of the axle on a stock wheel base TJ. Don’t ask me why.
 
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mrblaine said:
Yes, but once you know that number, you can pull the tub and do the work if you want. You just need the distance between two points that don't change.
Click to expand...
Understood. I was thinking that welding under the tub would be tedious and dangerous and much easier without the tub. But I am no welder and know nothing at all about the specialized techniques or tools available to work in tight spaces.
 

OldGloryLJ,​

That is Blaine's kit, did I install it on the wrong side (clocking)? Sure works good and the hose seemed right. My thinking was behind had more protection.

Easy enough to rotate If that is the case. Any input?
 
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