Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

Does Fusion360 do automated sheet metal bends (adding the bend allowance)? I've been doing that by hand in AutoCAD, but being able to put in a bend allowance table and have it automatically adjust for allowances would be cool!

I haven't tried any sheet metal in it. I know it can do it but I'm not sure if it's in the free version.
 
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I ran Pro E, Soldiworks and NX for many years. I tried sketchup once and wasn't impressed.

I'm now using Fusion360 for my 3D printer. It's pretty good for free but there's a lot I'd change about it. It would also be my recommendation though.

I'm old enough that Pro E wasn't around part of the curriculum I learned (came out about 2 years into my Degree, but by then I had "advanced" to SDRC Ideas). Most of my experience is with Solidworks. I've dabbled a little with UG and now I'm using Inventor at a hobbiest level. Its the package we use at my shop, the guys seem to like it. I've made it do some cool stuff, but its not quite as intuitive as Solidworks was.
 
I spent a little time today fooling around with a design layout for the console. I still have some tweaking to do, but I like the general layout so far. The top of the center section will be about level with the seats. The top of the angled portion at the front will meet the dash just below the HVAC controls.

I may have to make the slots for the Atlas shifters a bit longer, but they only need to move about an inch in either direction.

I'm toying with an idea on how to build a set of parking brake levers that actuate from below, eliminating the need for a slot in the console.


Jeep Center Console - 4.jpg


Jeep Center Console - 5.jpg



Jeep Center Console - 6.jpg


Any thoughts?
 
I spent a little time today fooling around with a design layout for the console. I still have some tweaking to do, but I like the general layout so far. The top of the center section will be about level with the seats. The top of the angled portion at the front will meet the dash just below the HVAC controls.

I may have to make the slots for the Atlas shifters a bit longer, but they only need to move about an inch in either direction.

I'm toying with an idea on how to build a set of parking brake levers that actuate from below, eliminating the need for a slot in the console.


View attachment 507776

View attachment 507777


View attachment 507778

Any thoughts?

I like the how it looks. The cut out for the parking brake seems like a good idea. Not sure how else to mount them but you are creative and I'm sure you'll come up with something. And I will admit that I truly do miss my arm rest.
 
I spent a little time today fooling around with a design layout for the console. I still have some tweaking to do, but I like the general layout so far. The top of the center section will be about level with the seats. The top of the angled portion at the front will meet the dash just below the HVAC controls.

I may have to make the slots for the Atlas shifters a bit longer, but they only need to move about an inch in either direction.

I'm toying with an idea on how to build a set of parking brake levers that actuate from below, eliminating the need for a slot in the console.


View attachment 507776

View attachment 507777


View attachment 507778

Any thoughts?

Does the height of the front section (around the Atlas shifters) block anything in the lower dash center section (switches etc)? Or are you using additional flat real estate on the new console for that stuff?
 
Does the height of the front section (around the Atlas shifters) block anything in the lower dash center section (switches etc)? Or are you using additional flat real estate on the new console for that stuff?

Yes, all the switches and connectIons below the HVAC controls are blocked, and will be relocated - the switches to the SPOD. They would be inaccessible anyway as they woukd be blocked by the Triple shifter.
 
I spent a little time today fooling around with a design layout for the console. I still have some tweaking to do, but I like the general layout so far. The top of the center section will be about level with the seats. The top of the angled portion at the front will meet the dash just below the HVAC controls.

I may have to make the slots for the Atlas shifters a bit longer, but they only need to move about an inch in either direction.

I'm toying with an idea on how to build a set of parking brake levers that actuate from below, eliminating the need for a slot in the console.


View attachment 507776

View attachment 507777


View attachment 507778

Any thoughts?

I love it. I like you included the arm rest on there. That is one of the reasons I've been holding off on the Genright console, well that and the additional need for Atlas cable shifters adding to the cost. I'll be very interested in how it turns out. Looks awesome so far!!
 
The American Iron Ball Joint Eliminators were delivered today. Cool, simple design, and certainly appear to be pretty beefy.

IMG_9887.JPG


One thing I do not like about the HD ball joints from Dynatrac is that their lower ball joint (below on the right) hangs down way below the knuckle (which ends at the snap ring slot). That star nut on the bottom, into which the zerk fitting screws, is the part of the joint which locks in the ball, and unscrews / disassembles for a rebuild. Lay that on a rock (which could happen in my rig) and my guess is that it could destroy the joint - or at least damage it enough that it could not be disassembled for a rebuild.

The American Iron joint also hangs down a little below the knuckle, but the big allen head bolt would likely fare much better against a rock.

IMG_9888.JPG


I'll give it a bit more thought, but I am leaning toward installing the America Iron eliminators.
 
Does Fusion360 do automated sheet metal bends (adding the bend allowance)? I've been doing that by hand in AutoCAD, but being able to put in a bend allowance table and have it automatically adjust for allowances would be cool!

I've never gotten around to setting up tables or defining a formula that works entirely well as laying out by hand. I am sure if I spent the time I could but it seems they work out well in some cases, and sometimes they don't.
 
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The American Iron Ball Joint Eliminators were delivered today. Cool, simple design, and certainly appear to be pretty beefy.

View attachment 508913

One thing I do not like about the HD ball joints from Dynatrac is that their lower ball joint (below on the right) hangs down way below the knuckle (which ends at the snap ring slot). That star nut on the bottom, into which the zerk fitting screws, is the part of the joint which locks in the ball, and unscrews / disassembles for a rebuild. Lay that on a rock (which could happen in my rig) and my guess is that it could destroy the joint - or at least damage it enough that it could not be disassembled for a rebuild.

The American Iron joint also hangs down a little below the knuckle, but the big allen head bolt would likely fare much better against a rock.

View attachment 508914

I'll give it a bit more thought, but I am leaning toward installing the America Iron eliminators.

Does anyone know the reason why a ball joint is typically used on a straight axle? The bearing design of the eliminators makes more sense to me as the motion (presumably) only occurs in rotation about the steering axis? I suppose another way of asking the question is; Does the C or knuckle flex enough that the additional degree of freedom in traditional ball motion protects the joint from stress?
 
Does anyone know the reason why a ball joint is typically used on a straight axle? The bearing design of the eliminators makes more sense to me as the motion (presumably) only occurs in rotation about the steering axis? I suppose another way of asking the question is; Does the C or knuckle flex enough that the additional degree of freedom in traditional ball motion protects the joint from stress?

This explains it some.

A simple kingpin suspension requires that the upper and lower control arms (wishbones) have pivot axes that are parallel, and in strict geometric relationship to the kingpin, or the top and bottom trunnions, which connect the kingpin to the control arms, would be severely stressed and the bearings would suffer severe wear. In practice, many vehicles had elastomeric bearings in the horizontal pivots of the trunnions, which allowed some small amount of flexibility, however this was insufficient to allow much adjustment of caster to be made, and also introduced compliance where the suspension designer may not have desired it in his quest for optimum handling. Camber angle could generally be adjusted by moving both inner pivots of either the upper or lower control arm inwards or outwards by an exactly equal amount. But compliance of the control arm inner pivots, typically due to the use of elastomeric bearings, would again cause the trunnions to be stressed. The suspension designer's freedom was limited, it was necessary to have some compliance where it might not be wanted, and very little where more would have been useful in absorbing the fore and aft impact loading from bumps.

The introduction of ball joints top and bottom allowed 3-axis articulation and so removed all the constraints on the control arm axes being exactly parallel, so caster could be freely adjusted, typically by asymmetric adjustment of the position of the control arm inner pivots, while camber was adjusted by the symmetric adjustment of these same pivots.

The arrangements for adjusting the toe angle are not changed by introducing ball joints in the suspension, although the steering linkage itself must use 4 or more pivots, also usually ball joints, and in almost every vehicle ever made, some of these have been adjustable by having a threaded end and locknut, to enable the toe to be set precisely.
 
This explains it some.

Kind of talks about what I was thinking but in a double control arm situation I expect there is a lot more motion of the steering axis relative to the fixture the ball joint is in vs the C of a straight axle.
 
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Kind of talks about what I was thinking but in a double control arm situation I expect there is a lot more motion of the steering axis relative to the fixture the ball joint is in vs the C of a straight axle.

Yes, I can't see there being a lot of off-center difference on a solid axle either. I think once ball joints were developed they were cheaper than king pins and also required less maintenance. My first truck had a solid axle that had king pins and it was a PITA to work on.

BTW American Iron sells a kit for the TJ axle also.
 
Yes, I can't see there being a lot of off-center difference on a solid axle either. I think once ball joints were developed they were cheaper than king pins and also required less maintenance. My first truck had a solid axle that had king pins and it was a PITA to work on.

BTW American Iron sells a kit for the TJ axle also.

Agree, I have a kingpin rebuild coming up on a 20 yr old International 4300, that I’m NOT look forward to.
 
It's pretty rare when I don't have the right tool for a job, but I did not have a 3/4" allen to fit these joints. So in prep for the install I picked one up:

IMG_9892.JPG


I actually picked up two, since I'll now have to keep one in the rig just in case.
 
It's pretty rare when I don't have the right tool for a job, but I did not have a 3/4" allen to fit these joints. So in prep for the install I picked one up:

View attachment 509239

I actually picked up two, since I'll now have to keep one in the rig just in case.

No 1/2” bolt with a couple nuts?